On August 19,1991, the world held its breath. A coup in Moscow sent ripples through Germany, as well. Christian F. Trippe takes a personal look back at those fateful days.
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I used to work as a reporter for a regional television station in Düsseldorf and had prepared a piece about the imminent withdrawal of British troops from Germany. On August 19, a Monday, her Majesty's Armed Forces were to announce at a press conference what was to become of the more than 60 base locations of the British Army of the Rhine.
The Cold War was over. All of Europe was disarming. Barracks were being closed everywhere. In Germany, everyone was looking forward to enjoying the upcoming "peace dividend." That was the mood at the time, just following the fall of the Berlin Wall. The Soviet Union was no longer the enemy, and, under the leadership of Mikhail Gorbachev, things could only get better — we in Western Europe were quite sure of that. "Gorbi" would finally put an end to the East-West standoff.
British troops had been stationed in West Germany since World War II. They were stationed at bases in Rheindahlen, Herford, Bielefeld, Dortmund and elsewhere. They arrived as occupation troops and stayed as NATO allies. At the height of the Cold War, there were up to 100,000 soldiers from the United Kingdom stationed in Germany. Many of them brought their families along.
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Their imminent departure was another step toward a world free of East-West rivalries. But then the phone rang. It was August 19. On the other end of the line was the military's press officer, who said: "Stop Everything. Our withdrawal plans from Germany are suspended. A coup is underway in Moscow. We are even hearing that Gorbachev may be dead." He went on to say that Britain's Cabinet was holding crisis talks at the very moment.
Shortly thereafter, the news agencies were reporting that German Chancellor Helmut Kohl would be cutting short his traditional summer vacation at Lake Wolfgang to return to Bonn immediately.
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Soviet Union's 'disintegration'
Years later, Kohl said the coup in Moscow had "not surprised him very much." What was surprising, though, was the timing of it. That evening, the Tagesschau, Germany's premier news broadcast, reported that the chancellor had met with party and parliamentary group leaders to discuss the situation in Moscow. Whenever a crisis cabinet convenes, it is commonplace that the chancellor not only invite government representatives but also the leaders of Germany's opposition parties to the talks.
At the time, no one was aware just how serious the situation was. But I still remember that many people were worried about Gorbachev's personal well-being — and how great the relief was when the Soviet head of state reappeared in Moscow three days later.
The coup attempt shifted the balance of power within Moscow's political establishment and set a political chain reaction in motion. A few days later, the foreign ministers of Lithuania, Latvia and Estonia met in Bonn, the then German capital, with Foreign Minister Hans-Dietrich Genscher. Their common goal: to resume diplomatic relations.
The people of the Soviet Union, Kohl wrote in his memoirs, "won a great victory for democracy, freedom and justice." But it was also clear to the German government that the coup had accelerated the dissolution of the Soviet Union, which many saw as irreversible, leaving in its wake a long trail of political uncertainties. Genscher spoke in retrospect about his and the chancellor's "concerns about what political, military and economic consequences a disintegration of the Soviet Union might entail." That is why he and Kohl approved Gorbachev's plans to remake the Soviet Union from the ground up, with a renewed treaty.
Gorbachev, then Yeltsin
The referendum calling for a continuation of the Soviet Union failed, and people across Russia got an opportunity to get to know another politician: Boris Yeltsin. They saw him perched on the tank in front of the Russian White House. They saw him standing up to the people behind the coup. What was clear to everyone was that a new political wind was blowing in Moscow.
The coup attempt put Moscow under the political magnifying glass and showed everyone how fragile the country's future was. Old-style Soviet elites clung to the status quo. But, in doing so, they only accelerated what they were hoping to prevent: the disintegration of the Soviet Union.
Incidentally, the plans for the withdrawal of British NATO troops from West Germany were then presented to the public a few weeks later.
Highlights of the Berlin Wall Trail
August 13th 2021 marks 60 years since the construction of the Berlin Wall. Head down the Mauerweg, a trail tracing the former border that divided the city for 28 years, to learn about Berlin's Cold War past.
Image: DW/V. Esipov
The Berlin Wall Trail
The Berlin Wall divided West and East Berlin for 28 years. Since 1989, the city has been reunited, as has Germany. The differences between both former cities are fading more and more. Still, one of the best ways to explore the remaining traces of the Cold War is the Berlin Wall Trail. This round tour covers some 160 kilometers, identified with the sign "Berliner Mauerweg."
The Berlin Wall Memorial
The tour can easily be started anywhere you want, as bikes can be brought on Berlin's public transport network. An interesting place to begin is the Berlin Wall Memorial. Following the Wall's former location on Bernauer Strasse along 1.4 kilometers, it shows how the border fortifications were set up and pays tribute to the people who fled East Berlin as well as to the victims of the death strip.
Image: picture-alliance/dpa/M. Gambarini
Cobblestone markings
These lines of cobblestones will help you recognize the exact former location of the Wall in the center of the city. However, it is not continuously documented this way throughout the urban part of the border, which covered some 40 kilometers. When the Wall came down on November 9, 1989, East and West Germans were eager to get rid of all traces of it.
Image: Sabine Lubenow/DUMONTpicture alliance
The Brandenburg Gate
Following the bike path down towards Mitte, you will reach the government district by the Spree River and the Brandenburg Gate. This famous Berlin landmark landed in a no-man's land after the Wall was built. Although the Wall officially blocked it from West Berlin, a smaller wall also restricted access to the monument for East Germans as well.
Image: picture-alliance/dpa
Checkpoint Charlie
Checkpoint Charlie remains the most famous former crossing point between East and West Berlin. But of course, nothing here is original. The checkpoint the tourists are checking out is a remake — surrounded by souvenir shops and fast food restaurants.
Image: picture-alliance/dpa/F. Sommer
Watchtower near Potsdamer Platz
More than 300 watchtowers used to overlook the Berlin Wall, allowing border guards to catch people trying to flee East Berlin. Only a few were left standing, such as this mushroom-shaped surveillance platform near Potsdamer Platz, now listed as an historical monument. Larger, square towers later replaced this model from 1966. An example of this type of tower can be found near Treptower Park.
Image: picture alliance/dpa/W. Steinberg
East Side Gallery
Another classic attraction that can't be missed on the Berlin Wall bike path is the East Side Gallery. International artists painted this 1.3-kilometer-long remaining stretch of the Wall in 1990, making it one of the longest open-air galleries in the world. This depiction of Leonid Brezhnev and Erich Honecker kissing is one of the most iconic paintings of the gallery.
Image: Reuters/F. Bensch
The Glienicke Bridge
Beyond the urban section of the bike path, the route continues through the suburbs of Berlin. Just before reaching Potsdam is the Glienicke Bridge, where spies used to be exchanged during the Cold War. A 1962 trade of a KGB agent for an American pilot that took place here is featured in Stephen Spielberg's recent film, "Bridge of Spies." Many villas can be spotted in that area too.
Image: picture-alliance/dpa/R. Hirschberger
Watchtower Museum in Nieder Neuendorf
Large parts of the bike route are in the middle of the forest, allowing you to realize how green Berlin and its surroundings still are. Right on the bank of the Havel River, this watchtower in Nieder Neuendorf near Hennigsdorf, about 20 kilometers northwest of Berlin, houses a small museum on the history of the Wall and how it affected that town. It is free to visit.
Image: Bernd Settnik/dpa/picture alliance
Cherry tree avenue in Pankow
Returning to the city, you'll be greeted by a cherry tree avenue in Pankow, which is most spectacular towards the end of April, when the trees are in full bloom. The Japanese donated some 10,000 trees "to bring peace in the hearts of the people." They were planted in different sections of the former Wall. This avenue is right by Bösebrücke, the first crossing to open on the day the Wall came down.