Arriving at Budapest airport, I was welcomed by chilly winds and dense fog. Despite the day's somber tone, I was determined to have a wonderful time and started with a hearty brunch in the city center. I came upon a contemporary bistro offering gourmet sandwiches and heavenly coffee within walking distance from my hotel. Affordable prices for good food and accommodation made me realize how lucky I was staying in Budpest in winter.

Being a big fan of public transport systems in major European cities, I took the tram to the Danube River.

On the banks of the Danube River

On my way, I stopped to gaze at the Hungarian Parliament building — popular for being one of the largest Parliament buildings in the world. At the nearby "Shoes on the Danube Promenade" — a memorial for the Jewish victims of Budapest murdered by members of the Hungarian Arrow Cross party in 1944/45 — I said a solemn prayer.

Crossing the Chain Bridge that spans between Pest and Buda, I could see Buda's hill towering over the rest of the city from a height which held the promise of panoramic views.

Standing in a long line for the funicular ride to the top of the hill, I was surprised to notice that the winter weather had not dampened the spirits of the tourists. Clad in layers of warm clothing and ready with cameras and selfie sticks, the atmosphere was energetic. As the funicular slowly ascended the hill, we watched through the fog upon the city of Pest nestled on the other side of the river.

Reaching the top, I headed towards the Fisherman’s Bastion — a neo-gothic and neo-romantic terrace consisting of seven white medieval looking towers — offering massive views of the city. Unfortunately, with the sun absent there was no hope of a sunset.

Hot chocolate and thermal water

I continued on past the hordes of tourists to a cosy restaurant around the corner. Wishing for some respite from the cold, I made myself comfortable near a big glass window between two heaters. Sipping on a big mug of delicious Bailey’s hot chocolate while watching the Parliament building light up as the evening progressed is a memory I will cherish forever.

Next morning, I packed my bag and hopped onto the metro to Szechenyi Baths. Consisting of 18 pools, this is the biggest of 15 thermal baths in Budapest. The building of the spa baths is richly decorated in a neo-baroque style. A one-time payment allows access to the whole property and although it costs 19 euros, the experience is definitely worth the expense.

I spent hours floating about amidst thick steam in natural spring waters in the indoor and outdoor pools. The mood was stress-free, with visitors playing chess on stone tables in the water or simply hanging around and making the most use of this winter day. Personally, I considered it marvelous to be able to unwind outdoors in the hot waters despite the absolutely freezing temperatures. This is a luxury not many cities can boast. 

The famous ruin bars

I am keen on seeing the famous 'ruin bars' of Budapest. In a wildly popular concept unique to this city, abandoned buildings are completely transformed into multi-story bars.

On entering Szimpla Kert — the first ruin bar of Budapest, which started off this trend in 2004 — I was at a loss for words.The worn out wallpaper, mismatched furniture, strange décor, multitude of lights and distinctive art work created a weird yet cohesive atmosphere. To me, it seemed like multiple garage sales had directly made their way onto the walls and into the corners of the bar. I took notice of an assortment of musical instruments, vehicle parts, toys, plants and even old electrical gadgets strewn about.

Quickly losing track of time there, I enjoyed the many genres of music while exploring the multiple rooms in the whole place. Since the bar was overcrowded, I struggled to find a proper seat and found myself sitting on the back of a six foot tall plastic kangaroo placed in one of the rooms. If this experience is not a strong enough reason to visit Budapest again, I don’t know what is.