Many in the African diaspora consider their church community a home away from home. But the coronavirus pandemic often makes it difficult for expatriates to maintain social networks and practice their faith.
Advertisement
Melanie Oben doesn't just sing. She belts out the songs with such passion that she could replace the entire choir. Which is exactly what she's doing at the moment. Usually, around 20 other people would be standing with her right now. But the apse is almost empty. Only Oben, another singer and the keyboardist are here.
Cathedrals, minsters, churches — their architecture and grandeur make people pause and marvel, especially at Yuletide. Here is a selection of the most beautiful and famous churches in Germany.
Image: picture alliance/D. Kalker
Cologne Cathedral
It's not that easy to capture the twin spires of this symbol of Cologne in one picture. At a height of 157 meters (515 ft), Cologne Cathedral is the world's third-tallest church. It took more than 500 years to build, but it was worth it. This magnificent Gothic structure is one of the most popular sights in Germany.
Image: picture-alliance/dpa/O. Berg
Frauenkirche, Dresden
A cupola that weighs tons but still seems to float: the Frauenkirche, or Church of Our Lady, in Dresden was rebuilt with donations from around the world after it was destroyed in World War II. Just as it did when it was first opened in 1743, it is once again part of the skyline of the Baroque city on the River Elbe.
Image: picture-alliance/ZB/T. Eisenhuth
Hamburg's “Michel”
The distinctive steeple with the copper top has pointed mariners the way up the Elbe to Hamburg since the 17th century. St. Michael's Church, which the locals simply call “Michel,” is considered the most beautiful Baroque church in northern Germany.
Image: picture alliance/dpa
Ulm Minster
Small city, big church! At a height of 161.5 meters (530 ft), Ulm Minster's tower is the tallest in the world. Visitors have to be in good shape to climb the 768 steps to the observation platform. They'll be rewarded with a view that, in good weather, reaches all the way to the Alps.
Image: picture alliance/robertharding/M. Lange
Gedächtniskirche Berlin
The old church tower is a reminder of the destruction in World War II, the new tower a reminder of the exertions of rebuilding. “Lipstick and powder compact” — that's the nickname Berliners gave the Kaiser Wilhelm Memorial Church when it was reconsecrated in 1961. It's now one of the landmarks in the western part of central Berlin.
Image: Colourbox/V. Voennyy
Aachen Cathedral
Charlemagne laid the foundation stone for the cathedral in 800 AD and made it the heart of his empire. As the place where German kings were once crowned, it is one of the most important churches in the Western world. In 1978, Aachen Cathedral was the first building in Germany to be made a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Image: picture-alliance/dpa/imageBROKER
Frauenkirche, Munich
Munich's Frauenkirche, the Cathedral of Our Blessed Lady, stands in the heart of the Bavarian city and can be seen from far away. No neighboring building is allowed to be more than 100 meters (328 ft) in height, so that Munich's skyline remains intact. The church's distinctive towers with their bulbous domes are modeled on the Dome of the Rock in Jerusalem.
Image: picture-alliance/Chromorange/A. Gravante
Nikolaikirche, Leipzig
Palm-topped columns adorn the interior of St. Nicholas Church in Leipzig, but there is also a column in front of it, to commemorate the Peaceful Revolution in autumn 1989. At the time, the Nikolaikirche was the starting point for the Leipzig Monday demonstrations that heralded the end of East Germany (GDR) and the division of Germany.
Hildesheim in Lower Saxony is home to some 40 churches. The Cathedral of the Assumption of Mary is 1,200 years old and a jewel of Romanesque architecture. What is known as the “Thousand-Year Rose” grows in the courtyard of its cloisters. Researchers now think it may be a mere 700 years old, but with dimensions like these, who would bother to be so petty?
Image: Fotolia/panoramarx
The Basilica of Birnau
A Baroque gem on the shores of Lake Constance: The exterior of the church is fairly simple, but inside, its full splendor is revealed, with countless sculpted figures of angels, ceiling frescoes and opulent ornamentation. Incidentally, the tower clock dates from 1750 and is the oldest working clock in Germany.
Image: darqy - Fotolia.com
Erfurt Cathedral Hill
To the left, St. Mary's Cathedral and to the right, the Church of St. Severus: This imposing ensemble rises over Erfurt's Old Town. Perhaps the residents of Erfurt were especially devout, or had too much money. In any case, the result is impressive: two examples of the finest Gothic architecture right next to each other.
"You can see how we need to make an effort here," says Oben, who is originally from Cameroon. Still, she says the extra effort is worth it. The song "Glory to God" echoes around the church and down to the pews.
Normally, the congregation would be standing up, clapping and singing along. But everything is calm. Only one woman in the back row hums along quietly, almost timidly, behind her face mask.
This Sunday service represents a little piece of Africa in the middle of Berlin-Schöneberg. Here, two worlds collide: The massive St. Elisabeth Church — with its dark wooden benches and Gothic-style windows — is quintessentially German.
But it is also a place of worship for the city's vibrant African community, who fill the church with songs and traditions from Kenya, Nigeria and Cameroon — Melanie Oben's home country. "When I sing here on Sundays, I feel at home," she says.
Worshiping under lockdown
But the coronavirus pandemic has changed everything. Since the beginning of May, church services in Berlin have only been allowed to take place under strict conditions.
If you want to attend a service, you first need to register. A maximum of 50 people are allowed inside the church. At the entrance, an attentive assistant watches closely as everyone disinfects their hands. Aside from Oben and her colleagues, no one is allowed to sing.
"Coming here is like coming home," Pastor Sylvester Ajunwa tells DW.
But the coronavirus pandemic means the home is mostly empty and quiet. Barely 30 people sit scattered in the big church. Even Ajunwa seems a little bit lost in his own sanctuary.
Infectious diseases are not her specialty, but there is a Catholic saint named St. Corona, whose feast day is May 14. Here's a selection of heavenly advocates.
Image: picture-alliance/dpa/O. Berg
St. Corona
People hoping for help from the heavens above in difficult times — in particular when they had money problems — would pray to Saint Corona. Treasure hunters and gamblers are said to invoke her name. She is said to have lived in the 2nd century A.D. and was killed for comforting a martyr, becoming one herself, tied between two palm trees bent to the ground that were released to tear her apart.
Image: picture-alliance/dpa/O. Berg
Rita of Cascia
Here's a patron saint for "impossible cases," including abused wives, parents, lonely hearts and widows: Rita of Cascia. The 15th-century Italian woman — who later joined an Augustinian convent — pledged to forgive her abusive husband's killers and convinced her sons to do so, too. She was called the "peacemaker of Cascia."
Image: picture-alliance/akg-Images
Martha of Bethany
By the end of the 1st century A.D., Christians had begun to honor other Christians who had died, praying for their help. Described in the gospels of Luke and John — and a witness to Jesus' resurrection of her brother Lazarus — Martha is the patron saint of housewives and domestic workers. Why? She is said to have shown Jesus hospitality at her home in Bethany near Jerusalem.
Image: gemeinfrei
St. Ambrose
Ambrose, Bishop of Milan in the 4th century, is the patron saint of beekeepers. Legend has it that when he was a baby, a swarm of bees settled on his face and fed him honey while he lay in his cradle — regarded as a sign that he would one day be a great orator. He is often depicted with symbols of wisdom: bees or a beehive.
Image: picture-alliance/dpa/A. Held
St. Christopher
A martyr killed in the 3rd century, Christopher's most famous legend has it that he carried a child across a river — and the child later revealed himself as Christ. He is the patron saint of travelers: cab, bus and truck drivers often enough evoke his protection with visor clips, decals and small adhesive figurines.
Image: gemeinfrei
Joseph of Cupertino
Astronauts and pilots have their own patron saint as well: Joseph of Cupertino, a 17th-century Italian Franciscan priest prone to ecstatic visions and — legend has it — levitations. Flying was widely believed to be based on witchcraft, so the Inquisition took an interest in Joseph, who was later exonerated.
Image: gemeinfrei
St. Thomas More
Sir Thomas More was a 16th-century English philosopher and statesman. He was also counselor to King Henry VIII, but opposed the King's separation from the Roman Catholic Church and was thus convicted of treason and beheaded. In the year 2000, Pope John Paul declared him the "heavenly patron of statesmen and politicians."
Image: gemeinfrei
St. Cecilia
Born in the 2nd or 3rd century, Cecilia is thought to have been the daughter of a wealthy Roman family forced to marry the pagan Valerian. The martyr — condemned to suffocate, almost decapitated — is regarded as the patroness of music and singers because she heard heavenly music in her heart when she was married.
Image: picture-alliance/akg-Images
Francis of Assisi
The Italian, born in the late 12th century to a prosperous merchant family, instead embraced a life of poverty. Legend has it had a great love and a knack for communicating with animals. He is the founder of the Franciscan order and the patron saint of ecologists, animals and veterinarians.
Image: gemeinfrei
St. Augustine
Along with Gambrinus, Florian, Bonifacius, Arnulf and Nicholas of Myra, Augustine of Hippo is only one of many patron saints of beer brewers. Augustine lived in the 4th century, and after initially living a wild and loose life, became a bishop. To this very day, many breweries and beers — people's standard drink centuries ago — are named after a saint.
Image: gemeinfrei
St. Florian
The patron saint of firefighters and chimney sweeps was a Roman officer in 3rd-century Austria, responsible for organizing firefighting brigades. Legend has it he was to be burned at the stake for refusing to pray to the Roman Gods but was drowned instead, a millstone around his neck, after threatening to climb to heaven on the flames.
Image: gemeinfrei
11 images1 | 11
Difficult times
The priest is responsible for around 1,000 English-speaking Catholics in Berlin and Brandenburg. Born in Nigeria, Ajunwa received his doctorate in Würzburg and is happy to be able to build a bridge between Africa and Germany.
Even in normal times, his job can't be done without a good dose of faith. "Belief in God is our anchor with which we will survive these difficult times, and we will continue to trust in his help," he says at the opening of his service.
And he does a lot to ensure that these aren't just empty words. This Sunday alone, he rushes through the city to lead four services. In St. Elisabeth Church, he holds two services instead of one, so that no one misses out.
Ajunwa is happy to take on the challenge. He knows what the COVID-19 crisis means for his congregation — especially when they are unable to worship like they usually would.
While others stay home out of fear, he personally meets with those who need some support — while keeping the appropriate minimum distance, he emphasizes. Otherwise he would call others. And then his phone keeps ringing.
"The community members have lost two things: Their spiritual life and their community life," he explains. "It's a place where they can talk about their problems from the soul and enjoy positive experiences together. So for many, it hurt a lot."
A missing community
For many people, it's still difficult. After the service, parishioners usually meet in the hall next door, where they eat, drink and talk — sometimes for hours. Now, the huge room is empty, the chairs stacked on top of one another. "The period after Mass is actually like a second celebration," says Ajunwa.
The faithful are no longer here — such as Godwin Nwaru. He says he usually never misses a service in St. Elisabeth Church, unless he's out of town.
"It's terrible," he tells DW after the service. "We have lost our community, the social aspect of our lives has been destroyed. We have not seen some community members who used to come here regularly for months."
Nwaru — who came to Germany 10 years ago and is now part of the parish council — says the new coronavirus service is missing a few vital things: "Our choir has been reduced. We used to also have drums, gongs and other instruments. It is no longer a proper African celebration."
Meanwhile, Melanie Oben is already preparing to sing at the second service, which should begin in around half an hour. The abandoned drums behind her remind her of better times. But she still doesn't want to complain.
"I am relieved that we can at least finally go to church and sing again," she says. "Here, I get my energy for the next week. We had to stay at home for over two months. For many, it was like hell."