Iconic French fashion designer Jean-Paul Gaultier has announced that his haute couture show on January 22 in Paris will be his last. But the irreverent fashionista promises a new high design "concept" is in the wings.
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Jean Paul Gaultier: French fashion icon turns 70
High fashion provocateur Jean Paul Gaultier had his last show in Paris in 2020, but as he enters his eighth decade his inimitable style lives on.
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Crowning finale: A parade of haute couture
The model Winnie Harlow (photo), the burlesque dancer Dita von Teese and the Spanish actress Rossy de Palma were only three of 200 models that Jean Paul Gaultier sent across the catwalk in a last brilliant haute couture show in 2020. Fortunately, it took place in front of an audience in Paris' Theatre du Chatelet shortly before the first lockdown of the pandemic.
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Re-imaging a French classic
The iconic designer imbued his signature striped creations with inimitable flair, but he didn't just create catwalk fashion. The Parisian also designed costumes for film, including Spanish director Pedro Almodovar. "There is a life — many lives — after fashion," Gaultier said at his farewell two years ago at the Theatre Chatelet, promising a "new concept" for his couture and perfume empire.
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Leaving the runway
Even among the extravagant fashion crowd, Gaultier is considered over-the-top. For over 50 years, he soaked up influences from art, music, film and pop culture before transforming them into wearable creations. The French king of couture announced his retirement from designing haute couture fashion collections in 2019, his final show having been held on January 22, 2020 in Paris.
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Stellar career
Gaultier had no formal training as a fashion designer, but he knew what he wanted. He boldly sent sketches to the most prestigious fashion labels in Paris, his home city — and it worked. Pierre Cardin took him on as an assistant in 1970, marking the beginning of his glamorous career. Six years later, Gaultier introduced the first collection of his own.
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Outfits for provocative women
Jean Paul Gaultier quickly established his reputation as the enfant terrible of the fashion world. His daring designs came to represent the radical liberation of provocative femininity. He's shown here presenting a collection with burlesque model Dita von Teese at the Paris Haute Couture Fashion Week in 2010.
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Playful creations
The designer knows how to creatively play with color and material. As a child, Gaultier often spent time in his grandmother's beauty salon and observed everything that can be done with makeup. He works not only with ultra slender models, but also with older women, with larger girls, with girls with piercings. Shown above is model Amanda Lear.
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Styling the superstars
The designer has created concert wear for top celebrities like Beyoncé, Madonna, Kylie Minogue and Johnny Hallyday. Pictured here is the bullet bra Madonna wore during her 1990 "Blond Ambition" tour, which turned heads even in the boundary-breaking world of pop music. Gaultier also has strong ties with the film world: He was even president of the Cannes film festival jury in 2012.
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Trademark stripes
Every big designer has a trademark. For Gaultier, it was stripes — particularly striped sailor shirts, as worn here by photographers Pierre and Gilles. Gaultier was inspired by Rainer Werner Fassbinder's "Querelle" (1982), a cult movie in the gay scene about a handsome and devious Belgian sailor. Sailor outfits became a staple in Gaultier's collections.
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Boundless imagination
This haute couture gown reveal Gaultier's both flashy and elegant sides. He was the first to send androgynous models onto the catwalk and design scoop necks and skirts for men. He said he's always appreciated beauty that is unique. "You shouldn't hide behind fashion, but show yourself."
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The news came as a surprise: The revered French designer Jean Paul Gaultier bid adieu to his fashion collection shows on social media with a quirky video in which he makes the announcement on his phone. In the conversation with his fans, he sends out an invite to "celebrate my 50 years in fashion" on January 22 at the Théâtre du Châtelet in Paris.
But though the curtain will come down on the French fashion designer's catwalk shows, a "new concept" was in the works, he promised.
Breaking taboos
Born in an outer Paris suburb in 1952, the untrained designer began his career when he landed a job as a drawer and assistant for Pierre Cardin in 1970. It wouldn't take long for his outré creations to transform the French fashion landscape.
Gaultier's first individual collection appeared in 1976, while from 1997 on he also dedicated himself to haute couture. Meanwhile, the designer released dance music singles and hosted the TV variety program Eurotrash on Channel 4 — usually in a skirt — from the 1990s to 2007.
The Parisian trendsetter became known for his use of catwalk models that do not correspond to orthodox standards of beauty, or gender identity — including the short, shapely front singer of the band Gossip, Beth Ditto.
Designing dresses and skirts to be worn by both women and men, Gaultier was the first fashion designer to work with androgynous models like Tanel Bedrossiantz. The fashion designer also brought the transgender Eurovision Song Contest winner from 2014, Conchita Wurst, onto the catwalk.
The human body is the basis for his work that has also never been shy of nudity and eroticism. As he stated in a video posted to Twitter that documents an "open casting" that marks his 50 years in the fashion business: "There is not one kind of beauty, there are many kinds."
Jean Paul Gaultier's 'Fashion Freak Show'
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Trademark style
The blue-striped sailor look is a Gaultier trademark that was tailored for everyday use, and paired well with his mass market perfume range. You can't say that about most of his daring creations, however, including the famous conical bra corset he crafted in the 1980s for Madonna.
In 2014, the eccentric fashion designer already withdrew from the prêt-à-porter ready-to-wear market. But with Gaultier assuring that his creative career is far from over, the world will be watching after he takes a final bow in Paris.