Berlin residents originally from the Rhineland who love to celebrate carnival have tried to import the fun and partying to the German capital — in vain, as DW columnist Gero Schliess observes.
Image: picture-alliance/dpa/S.Kembowski
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I'm used to the good old Rhineland shouts of "Alaaf" and "Helau" during the carnival season. But "Hei-Jo"? That's what Berliners shout when — and if — they celebrate carnival. I'd have to adjust to that one.
The carnival call doesn't ring out during Berlin's "Carnival of Cultures," either: that colorful, multicultural event takes place at Pentecost, towards the end of May or the beginning of June, and people are more likely to shout "eco taxes — eco taxes" than "Hei-Jo!"
About 1,500 carnival-loving Berliners
Born in Cologne, I only moved to Berlin two years ago. I'm used to the "real thing" from Cologne, Düsseldorf and Mainz — but unfortunately, that's not how it's done in Berlin. There are plenty of reasons why I moved to Berlin, but, well, carnival isn't one of them.
There's no escaping the noisy, boisterous partying during what people call the "fifth season" in the Rhineland. Meanwhile, Berlin — a great city for partying — is muted carnival-wise. It's so quiet on that front that many people don't even know it's that time of year again.
"There's no carnival in Berlin," a friend of mine complains. He has been living in Berlin for a long time, but originally comes from Mainz, where people do celebrate the traditional festival.
About a million people flock to the Cologne Rose Monday parade every year...Image: picture-alliance/Geisler-Fotopress
The city's 22 Berlin carnival clubs and their 1,500 active members would disagree that there's no carnival at all in the German capital.
The association Narrenkappe e.V. from Berlin-Reinickendorf has been around for 40 years. The club has 40 members, says Martina Giersch. One member per year, I think to myself. If you look at the number of members in the Cologne carnival clubs, you'd have to go back to the Stone Age using that system.
Rhineland imports
Carnival came to Berlin in different stages. When Prussians occupied the region in western Germany — including Cologne, carnival's virtual epicenter — in 1815, they couldn't avoid catching the carnival bug.
German reunification triggered the next wave, when thousands of officials and their families — including many carnival lovers — moved from the Rhineland city of Bonn to Berlin, the new capital.
...and every year, the German chancellor officially welcomes Carnival delegations from around the countryImage: picture-alliance/Eventpress
Let's be fair, however. Even before the "transfusions" from the Rhineland, Berlin harbored tiny carnival groups. Prussia's King Frederick the Great loved what he called masked balls. It makes you wonder since the king was known to be quite humorless, but in any case he didn't forbid Berliners — a cheerful lot — to dance or wear costumes. And unlike his predecessors, he didn't raise the beer tax, either.
From a political point of view, the carnival aficionados in East and West Berlin spearheaded German unity, says Narrenkappe club activist Martina Giersch. The East and West Berlin clubs founded a joint association before the two Germanys were officially reunited.
It appears, however, that there is no unity concerning costumes yet.
In the western half of the once-divided city, people dress up for carnival events, and don't don actual costumes until Rose Monday — unlike eastern Berlin, where people wear fun costumes throughout.
You will find carnival parties in Berlin from the day celebrations kick off on Fat Thursday through Rose Monday, but the jolliness isn't really catching.
DW columnist Gero Schliess
I've given up all hopes of a fun carnival weekend: the small parade with just a few floats that used to move down Berlin's famous Kurfürstendamm avenue on Rose Monday was cancelled this year because of increased costs for security measures necessary as a result of the 2016 terror attack on the Christmas market at Breitscheidplatz square.
My friend from Mainz is right to say that people looking for a good time on the carnival weekend need to leave the city. I think I'll head back home to Cologne. Even Berlin's carnival prince and princess (see top photo) are leaving the capital to have a good time in faraway Düsseldorf on Rose Monday.
11 words you need to know to get through Carnival in Cologne
It's the only language that you can drink: "Kölsch" is a dialect most Germans don't understand — and the unofficial language of Carnival in Cologne. Here are words you need to know to get by while partying in the city.
Image: picture-alliance/dpa/O. Berg
Fastelovend, or: Fasteleer
Carnival, also known as the "Fifth Season," holds such a special place in the hearts of most Cologne residents that they have many words for it. Although Carnival, or "Fastelovend," is said to begin on November 11 each year, the really "great days" start with Ladies' Night, or "Weiberfastnacht" on the Thursday before and runs up until the dawn of Ash Wednesday.
Image: picture-alliance/dpa/R.Vennenbernd
Kölsch
Kölsch: It's the only language you can drink. That's the running gag in Cologne, where the dialect and hometown brew share the same name. Normally served in tall, slender glasses, during Carnival it's plastic cups only as no breakable glass is allowed on the street. Should you grab Kölsch at a Brauhaus, though, remember: Bring cash. It's the only way to buy drink tickets in packed pubs.
Image: picture-alliance/dpa
Clowning around with the Jecken
Anyone celebrating Carnival in Cologne is considered a "Jeck." A costume is required - the more colorful the better — to enjoy a Kölsch beer on the streets as a Jeck. Though used year-round to get a feel for your Carnival loyalties, asking someone if they're Jeck can also mean: "Are you nuts?"
Image: picture-alliance/dpa/R. Vennenbernd
D'r Zoch kütt!
This expression means: "There comes the Carnival's parade!" High atop the colorful wagons decorated with paper maché sculptures are costumed people who rain down sweets and — if you're lucky maybe a rose — on the crowds. Dance troupes and marching bands likewise get in the mix. The highlight in Cologne is the Rose Monday parade, though smaller neighborhood parades are held throughout the week.
Image: picture alliance/dpa
Kamelle
"Kamelle" are the sweets thrown from atop the Carnival floats. It used to be hard candy only, but in recent years, chocolate bars, chips and bags of popcorn are thrown as well. If you're hungry, you can try to grab the throwers' attention with a loud "Kamelle" — just be sure to check the pronunciation first so you don't yell Camel! at the crowds.
Image: picture alliance/dpa
Strüssjer
For the grown-ups in the crowd, roses are often handed out but only if you cry "Strüssjer!! Kamelle!!" Sometimes there might even be a kiss given out as well.
Image: picture-alliance/dpa/R. Vennenbernd
Bützcher
A "Bützcher" is a big smooch. During the Carnival festivities, expect to get kissed ("gebützt," or to be correct: "jebütz") more than usual. Complete strangers distribute harmless pecks on strangers' cheeks, though some wet Bützcher (in standard Kölsch, "Butz") may also smudge Carnival makeup all over your face.
Image: picture-alliance/dpa
Jet ze müffele
Something to eat — particularly important with high Kölsch consumption during Carnival. Famous Cologne dishes include "Flönz" (blood sausage), "Halver Hahn" (rye bread roll with cheese), "Hämcher" (pork knuckle) and "Rievkooche" (potato pancakes). During Carnival, "Frikadellen" (meatballs) are available as a quick snack almost everywhere (photo).
Image: Fotolia
Weetschaff
This word refers to pubs, bars or restaurants. Almost all of them take part in celebrating Carnival. They clear out the furniture to create a large dance floor and decorate everything colorfully for six days of celebration in a row. In many local pubs only Kölsche music is played (songs in the Kölsch dialect). You will often find up to 300-meter long queues in front of the traditional pubs.
Image: picture alliance/dpa Themendienst/H. Kaiser
Decke Trumm
A "decke Trumm" is a big fat drum. It sets the beat in many traditional Carnival songs. The drummers strap them on and beat them with a heavy stick. You can impress everyone by beating the drum and describing what you're doing in traditional Kölsch: "op the Trumm jeklopp."
Image: DW/Maksim Nelioubin
Schunkele un danze
In all of Cologne people dance ("danze") during Carnival — on the streets and in the pubs. If a song is in waltz time, people hook into each others arms and sway back and forth according to the beat. This is called "schunkeln." Some famous Schunkel songs are: "Ich ben ene Räuber," "Mir sinn kölsche Mädcher," "Blootwoosch, Kölsch un en lecker Mädcher."
