Garment industry representatives, unions and the government agreed to raising wages for garment workers by 9.2 percent by the beginning of next year, Cambodia's Ministry of Labor, Vocational and Training said on Thursday.
"The minimum wage of garment factory workers for 2017 has been officially set at $153 (136 euros) per month," the ministry said in a statement.
However, some union representatives said the latest increase of $13 monthly, compared to $140 in 2014, fell drastically short of a fair minimum wage.
"All the workers' union leaders and I, myself, are not happy with this new increased wage," said Ath Thorn, president of one of the unions that took part in negotiations.
"Due to the general expenses of the workers being too high, especially the prices of goods that keep increasing day by day, I think the fair minimum wage for the workers should $171 per month," he added.
Garment workers' wages have been a headache for Cambodia's government since mass demonstrations four years ago.
The global fashion industry has been in the spotlight following disasters in factories in Bangladesh and beyond. DW looks back on the history of working conditions for textile workers and examines current problems.
Image: DW/M. MohseniMost of the world’s clothing passes through the fingers of textile workers in developing nations. Large international brands moved their manufacturing to Southeast Asia and Latin America long ago, where workers are paid low wages. When garments are produced cheaply in sweatshops, protecting the environment and rights of workers is not a priority.
Image: picture-alliance/dpaMass manufacture of clothing was pioneered in Britain during the industrial revolution, which began in the 18th century. By the early 1800s, the textile industry boomed in the areas around London and Manchester, which had more than 100 cotton mills in the 1850s. Child labor, long working weeks, poor wages and health problems were common among the workers.
Image: gemeinfreiSoon, the harsh work conditions migrated. In the USA, 146 garment workers died in the Triangle Shirtwaist factory fire in New York in 1911 after managers had locked the exits. A memorial service was held on the centenary. Most of the victims were young women and their working conditions were similar to those which can be found today across Asia - long hours, meager wages and unsafe buildings.
Image: picture-alliance/dpaWith nations competing to lower the cost of garment manufacturing, factories moved in the 1970s from the US and Europe to Asia and Latin America. China is now the world’s largest textile manufacturer. Chinese textile workers are becoming increasingly better paid, up to 370 euros ($500) a month, leading factory owners to move to neighboring countries where pay rates are lower.
Image: picture-alliance/dpaIn India’s southern state of Tamil Nadu, girls in the region of Sumangali work to make clothing. Sumangali means "the bride that brings wealth" in Tamil. An estimated 120,000 girls are currently involved in so-called 'training periods' of up to four years in textile or spinning works here, to earn money for their dowry. Pay for a 12-hour working day can be as little as 60 euro cents.
Image: picture-alliance/GodongIn Cambodia, an estimated 300,000 women work in textile factories, generally under miserable conditions. A Cambodian worker can earn about 50 euros a month. Workers have been shot at while protesting for higher wages. In Bangladesh, about four million people work in the garment industry and the majority of them are women. The country is highly dependent on its cheap garment manufacturing sector.
Image: ReutersThe plight of modern textile workers caught global attention when a factory collapsed near Bangladesh’s capital Dhaka on April 24, 2013. More than 1,100 people were killed. It was the largest of many recent building failures and fires in the industry. The tragedy led to about 80 companies, like H&M, KiK and Metro, signing an agreement for safer working conditions in Bangladesh's factories.
Image: ReutersThe bright displays in shop windows belie the reality of life for many textile workers. German-based fashion brands are among the customers of textile factories with questionable practices. Long supply chains and a lack of transparency still make it hard to work out how and where their products are manufactured though.
Image: DW/M. Mohseni 'Terrible record'
In 2014, police opened fire on textile workers protesting for an increase to their then-monthly wages of $80, killing at least four people and injuring dozens more in the nation's capital of Phnom Penh.
Following the incident, the government raised the minimum wage to $100 per month for the rest of the year.
Human rights organizations have criticized the government's lax implementation of labor laws and horrid working conditions for laborers, despite factories holding contracts to produce clothing for major international brands, including Armani, Adidas and H&M.
In 2015, Human Rights Watch called on the government to enforce adequate protection of the estimated 700,000 workers in the industry, the majority of them women.
"The Cambodian government should take swift measures to reverse its terrible record of enforcing its labor laws and protect workers from abuse," said HRW women's rights researcher Aruna Kashyap.
The human rights watchdog issued a report with testimonies of laborers reporting horrendous working conditions, including abuse and sexual harassment.
ls/kms (AFP, AP)