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Can India's ancient stepwells solve its water crisis?

Catherine Davison in New Delhi
October 13, 2023

Many Indian cities on the frontlines of climate change and faced with acute water crises are turning to ancient water storage techniques to provide a solution.

A youth jumps into the historic Chand Baori stepwell as others look on in Abhaneri village in Rajasthan, India
Rajasthan's Chand Baori is one of the oldest and largest stepwells in the world, with 3,500 steps laid out in a geometric design down to the waterImage: ALEX OGLE/AFP via Getty Images

Stepwells, subterranean structures built into the ground to store water, were once the focal point of village life in drought-prone areas of India, providing a stable source of water for domestic use and irrigation. 

The ancient storage pools were quickly forgotten with the advent of modern water systems, and many remain disused and decrepit.

Of the 3,000 stepwells documented by experts in India, only around 400–500 are in usable condition.

But the long-overlooked architectural wonders are making a comeback, as a growing number of conservation architects, historians and urban planners fight to restore them to their original state.

Their aim is to preserve the stepwells' architecture and history — and provide a solution to India's growing water crisis.

The Rani Ki Vav stepwell is a UNESCO World Heritage Site that was designed as an inverted temple highlighting the sanctity of waterImage: Robert Harding/Imago

Stepwell restoration has "the potential to solve a lot of water availability issues at the village level, by really going back to the basics," said conservation architect Ratish Nanda, CEO of the Aga Khan Trust for Culture (AKTC), a philanthropic foundation working to preserve heritage sites across the world.

"Essentially, what we're trying to do is demonstrate how a rainwater harvesting system could have a significant impact in a micro community."

Depleting water tables

Some 17% of India's groundwater aquifers are overexploited, according to the country's Central Groundwater Board, meaning that water is being extracted at a greater rate than it is able to recharge.

The issue of depleting water tables is being worsened by India's increasingly erratic monsoon seasons.

As a result, many states that were already prone to drought and highly dependent on groundwater are facing acute water shortages, highlighting the importance of water conservation.

In the northern Indian state of Rajasthan, one of the world's most water-stressed regions, the state government paired with the World Bank to design a roadmap to revitalize heritage sites — including several stepwells.

Not only does their restoration help the self-sufficiency of towns in drought-prone areas, many of the sites have also drawn in tourists, boosting the local economy.

One of the most prominent examples of this is in Jodhpur, a city in Rajasthan that relies heavily on tourism. In 2017, the restoration of the Toorji Ka Jhalra, a stepwell in the center of the old city, was taken on by the owners of the Raas hotel chain whose converted mansion overlooks the stepwell that had long been abandoned.

The restoration uncovered engravings of elephants and cows and scriptures of deities, its carved steps and inverted pyramid design exemplifying the Marwari architectural style of the era, preserving a key part of the city's history.

Many stepwells, "are unique in terms of the history or the legends associated with them," said heritage educator and author Vikramjit Singh Rooprai, who has written a book on stepwells. "As long as a structure stands, there is a possibility that we hold on to the correct story."

The Toorji Ka Jhalra is now one of the most popular tourist sites in Jodhpur and has attracted fashion boutiques, cafes and other businesses looking to capitalize on the influx of tourist money in the area. 

Saving Jodhpur's stepwells

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Tourism and the conservation of key heritage sites often go hand in hand, said Nanda, who pointed out that the money generated from tourists can go towards the upkeep of the monuments.

The stepwell that sits beside the Nizamuddin Dargah, the shrine of one of the world's most famous Sufi saints, is one example of a site that continues to have religious significance — many believe the water here to be sacred.

The AKTC undertook restoration work on the stepwell — an arduous, decade-long process that involved removing 40 feet of sludge, explained Nanda. In 2021, the Nizamuddin Basti conservation project received a UNESCO Award for Excellence.

The Nizamuddin stepwell is just one of 16 stepwells that have been restored in New Delhi.

Stepwells are just the beginning of efforts to revive water bodies for the benefit of the local community however, said Rooprai.

"The same thing has to happen for all the rivers, lakes and all the water structures that we have — starting from small ponds in towns to our entire ocean."

Edited by: Keith Walker

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