Can India's push for millets start a food revolution?
Charu Kartikeya in New Delhi
March 1, 2023
In its push to popularize production and consumption of millets, India is attempting a major change — not only within the country, but across the world. Will the push bring about a new era for the ancient grains?
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With 2023 declared as the UN International Year of Millets, several events and activities are expected to be rolled out across India aimed at spreading awareness about the ancient grain.
The humble millet is believed to have been around for about 7,000 years. In India, archaeological evidence suggests their consumption dates as far back as the great Indus Valley Civilization era.
Millets are essentially a group of small-grained cereals like sorghum (known in India as jowar), pearl millet (bajra), finger millet (ragi/ mandua), foxtail millet (kangni/ Italian millet) and many others.
The millets are cultivated in at least 130 countries but have generally been relegated to the sidelines by the popularity of rice and wheat.
Ancient crops, with an edge
However, millets have several advantages over their more popular cousins. Millets can grow on arid lands with minimal inputs and are resilient to changes in climate, according to the Food and Agriculture Organization (FAO), which is leading this year's millet celebrations.
"They are therefore an ideal solution for countries to increase self-sufficiency and reduce reliance on imported cereal grains," said the UN agency.
Millets also appear to have a nutritional advantage. The FAO says they are naturally gluten-free and are a low-cost but rich source of fiber, antioxidants, minerals, proteins and iron.
They could be a "great food option for those with celiac disease or gluten intolerance, high-blood sugar or diabetes," according to the FAO.
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Big potential but multiple challenges
Millets are primarily grown in Asia and Africa, with India being the top producer followed by Niger, China and Nigeria.
India's share in total production of millets in the world in 2022 was 39%, followed by Niger (11%), China (9%) and Nigeria (7%), according to the US department of agriculture.
But while India's share of global millet production is significant, the figure is perhaps less so when compared with its yields of wheat and paddy.
According to data from India's federal agriculture ministry, India produced around 17 million tonnes of millet in 2020-21 — while the country generated more than 231 million tonnes of paddy and wheat during the same period.
Pulses: Dawn of a new superfood
Step aside, spinach and fish — there's a new superfood. Pulses often go unnoticed, but they have the potential to improve nutrition worldwide and help the climate. On World Pulses Day, they're finally getting their due.
Pulses, the dry seeds of legume family plants such as peas, beans, lentils or chickpeas, are easy to prepare and have all sorts of positive health effects. They've been credited with helping to prevent diabetes, reduce the risk of heart disease and help with cholesterol and weight loss. But despite their potential to rapidly improve nutrition in the developing world, they are often overlooked.
Image: Global Pulse Confederation
Nutritional powerhouse
The list of benefits doesn't end there. Pulses are high in dietary fiber, are a source of low-fat protein and are gluten-free. They are also packed with essential micronutrients such as iron, potassium, magnesium and zinc, making them a great food source for people who have limited access to nutritious foods.
Image: ICARDA
Not your ordinary bean
In Congo, Rwanda, India and several other developing countries HarvestPlus is growing iron-biofortified beans. This variety of bean is reported to have an even greater nutritional value than commonly grown bean varieties. In regions where close to one-third of people are affected by the micronutrient deficiency, anemia, the beans can provide consumers with up to 45% of their daily needs.
Image: Global Pulse Confederation
Pulses benefits stack up
Mywish Maredia, a professor of development economics at Michigan State University, argues that pulses are "uniquely positioned" to help tackle the challenges faced by the developing world. Not only do they provide adequate nutrition and health benefits, they are also cheap, easier to source and environmentally less damaging than meat and other agricultural industries.
Image: Global Pulse Confederation
In a league of their own
The UN reports that it costs nearly one-fifth the price to source an equivalent amount of protein from pulses as it does from milk. Furthermore, only around 160 liters (40 gallons) of water is needed to produce 500 grams (1 pound) of pulses, compared with some 7,000 liters for the same amount of beef.
Image: ICARDA
Can grow (almost) anywhere
Pulses are often grown in regions without access to irrigation or chemical fertilizers, meaning they can provide nutritional benefits to people unable to grow other crop types that would offer similar health advantages. What's more, pulses are drought and frost-tolerant, with the ability to grow in harsher environments than most stable crops.
Image: ICARDA
Ancient staple
Pulses have been part of the human diet for millennia. Archaeological digs in Anatolia — modern-day Turkey — have found signs of chickpea and lentil production (seen above, in Italy) dating back to 7,000-8000 B.C. Beans and other pulses have been important for many cultures. They've been found in Egyptian and Aztec tombs, and black beans were used by ancient Romans to banish specters of the dead.
Image: Photoshot/picture alliance
Bean artistry
An integral part of human culture, pulses have inevitably turned up in works of art. Rangoli, an art from that originated in India, uses materials such as colored sand, flower petals, rice, beans or lentils to create intricate and beautiful patterns on the ground. In this photo, Indians show their support for the ongoing farmers' protests with a huge Indian flag made of rice and lentils.
Image: Debarchan Chatterjee/ZUMA/picture alliance
Sweet treat
Pulses are highly versatile and can be eaten for breakfast, lunch and sometimes for dessert. They can be added as a healthy alternative in cakes, snacks and even some drinks. This candy favorite, the jelly bean, has nothing to do with pulses — but the shape was inspired by the diet of Americans in the 1800s, which was primarily made up of beans and homegrown vegetables.
Image: picture-alliance/S. Stache
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Making the switch
Millet production will need to be ramped up if people are expected to ditch rice and wheat in favor of the ancient grain alternative.
Harvir Singh, who edits the agriculaural website Rural Voice, feels that the Indian government has put little effort behind its campaign.
"When the government wants to popularize something, it launches a mission for that objective, which has set goals and a budgetary allocation," Singh told DW. "But in the case of millets, no such mission has been announced so far."
Price is also a factor. In the commodity markets of India's western state of Maharashtra, ragi was selling at about €43 ($45) per quintal (100 kilos), while wheat was selling for around €29 per quintal.
On the retail market, ragi flour is almost two-and-a-half times the price of wheat flour.
Reducing the price of millets will require increasing the amount of land used to grow them. But farmers are not keen to make the switch to millets, considering that millions are already struggling to make a living with their paddy and wheat crops.
A decade-old push
India's push to popularize millets has been in the works since at least 2012-13, when the government-mandated support price (MSP) for millets was raised higher than that of the country's staple foodgrain crops of paddy and wheat.
But the MSP is just one cog in the giant wheel of India's agricultural system. Another important factor is public procurement, or the purchase of agricultural products from farmers by the government.
Data provided by Food Corporation of India (FCI), the agency responsible for public procurement, shows that the government's purchase of millets has been negligible.
FCI's foodgrain stock figures show a stock of 119,000 tonnes of millets — compared to over 16 million tonnes of paddy and more than 15 million tonnes of wheat.
However, the sheer magnitude of the benefits of millets has enthused many and they want the federal government to do more.
10 facts about Indian culture that you should know
From "namaste" and fasting to auspicious marriage dates and holy cows, DW takes a look at some fascinating facets of the Indian culture and the beliefs behind them.
Image: Tumpa Mondal/picture-alliance/Photoshot
Land of the 'Hindus'
The name "India" is derived from the River Indus, around which the Indus Valley civilization flourished over 5,000 years ago. The native worshippers referred to the river as Sindhu. Persian invaders changed it to Hindu. The name "Hindustan," often used to refer to India, combines Sindhu and Hindu and refers to the land of the Hindus. However, in the Hindi language, the country is called "Bharat."
Image: Getty Images/AFP/A. Hassan
Diverse religions
India is the birthplace of four major religions, including Hinduism and Buddhism. While about 84% of the country identifies as Hindu, it is also the home to one of the largest Muslim populations in the world. Jews and Christians have also lived in India since 200 B.C. and 52 A.D. respectively. However, religious minorities are increasingly feeling insecure amid the rise of Hindu nationalism.
Image: Imago/Indiapicture
Woman as 'Devi'
Hindus have traditionally placed women on a high pedestal, even revering them as goddesses. But treatment of girls and women in today's India has been anything but respectful. The country is considered one of the most dangerous for women, with a woman raped every 20 minutes, according to government data. The practice of dowry and female infanticide are still widely prevalent.
Image: Save The Children India
Holy cow!
The cow is sacred for India's Hindus, who make up more than 80% of the nation's population, but they do not consider it to be God. In Hindu mythology, the animal is related to several deities, like Krishna, the cowherd god — or Shiva, who rides his bull, Nandi. It also makes economic sense for the poor to use various cow products — milk, curd, butter, ghee, urine, dung — rather than just meat.
However, it's a myth that India is a largely vegetarian country. While government surveys and various estimates suggest that more than a third of Indians do not eat meat, some experts believe that the "cultural and political pressures" cause many Indians to underreport meat consumption — particularly beef — and overreport vegetarian diets. The actual number of vegetarians is likely much lower.
The practice of fasting is an integral part of Hinduism. Fasting does not necessarily mean the body has to go without food; instead, it is sometimes sufficient to eliminate certain types of food and replace them with others, without restricting quantity. Mahatma Gandhi was a fervent supporter of fasting due to religious conviction. He saw it as a way to free oneself from bodily constraints.
The most common daily greeting in India is "namaste." Simply place your hands together at the heart and bow a little. In Sanskrit "namaste" means "the divine in me bows to the divine in you," and it serves as both "hello" and "bye." It can be used at any time, with anyone. Another less common Hindu greeting is touching an elder's feet with both hands to show respect and seek their blessings.
Image: Nishant Aneja/Pexels
The ABCs of India
Astrology, Bollywood and Cricket: Experts believe that religion, Hindi movies and the game of cricket is the holy trinity that makes India's heart beat. The three topics attract the most internet traffic, with global tech and media giants exploiting them to penetrate the Indian masses.
Image: Getty Images/AFP/W. West
Wedding affairs
Unlike in the West, in India you don't choose to get married on any random day. Families reach out to priests and astrologers to choose an auspicious date. In Hindu families, the horoscopes of the bride and groom to be are also checked for compatibility. A traditional Hindu wedding tends to last over many hours. The event includes multiple ceremonies that occur before the main wedding ritual.
Image: Orhan Cicek/Anadolu Agency/picture-alliance
Symbols of a married woman
Bindi (ornamental dot on the forehead), bangles and sindoor (vermillion powder) are symbols worn by Hindu married women. They are also known to carry some physiological significance. For example, sindoor consists of turmeric-lime and the metal mercury. Due to its properties, mercury controls blood pressure and also activates sexual drive, one reason why widows are not allowed to apply sindoor.
Image: Tumpa Mondal/picture-alliance/Photoshot
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Agriculture policy analyst Devinder Sharma said he has met several farmers across many states who grow millets, but even with the new MSP, their earnings have not increased.
"The current MSP is too low," Sharma told DW. "Millets require a virtually negligible amount of water, are an instrument of crop diversification and have multiple health benefits. The government should consider these factors and raise the MSP significantly."
He also dismissed the argument that millets are expensive and said that people who can buy a cup of coffee at restaurants for nearly €4 can easily spend about €1 for a kilo of ragi.
Sharma believes people have already developed an interest in millets and clever marketing campaigns can help boost consumption of the ancient, humble grain.