Chanel pays tribute to Lagerfeld with his final collection
March 5, 2019
With Fashion Week in Paris, the German designer's iconic white ponytail and dark shades were missed. Karl Lagerfeld was nevertheless present at the show with his final collection for Chanel.
Advertisement
The presentation of Karl Lagerfeld's final collection for Chanel, shown at Paris women's fashion week on Tuesday, opened with a minute of silence in tribute to the fashion giant. The label's iconic creative director passed away on February 19 at the age of 85.
After models stood silent on the catwalk at the Grand Palais in Paris, a recording of Lagerfeld's voice talking about his presentations was played. He could be heard, with his distinctive German accent, describing how Queen Elizabeth II once came to one of his shows and said it was "like walking into a painting."
For the show dedicated to the most prolific designer of the past century, the Grand Palais was turned into an Alpine winter wonderland, with a dozen chalets and drifts of artificial snow — a set worthy of Lagerfeld's legendary showmanship.
On the catwalk, different Chanel muses were part of the line-up, including Cara Delevingne who opened the presentation, as well as actress Penelope Cruz and the young Kaia Gerber, Cindy Crawford's daughter. The show concluded with a David Bowie song, "Heroes."
A look at Lagerfeld's final collection for Chanel
The presentation of Karl Lagerfeld's last collection for Chanel, shown at Paris women's fashion week on Tuesday, opened with a minute of silence in tribute to the fashion giant.
Image: Reuters/R. Duvignau
An alpine winter wonderland
For Chanel's presentation at the Paris Fashion Week, the Grand Palais was transformed into a ski resort, complete with mock Swiss chalets and artificial snow. The presentation featured Lagerfeld's final collection for the label, the Fall/Winter 2019-2020 women's ready-to-wear line. The location, with its spectacular dome, has often featured the label's awe-inspiring sets.
Image: Reuters/R. Duvignau
Fluffy whites
Penelope Cruz joined the Chanel family last autumn, but this was the actor's catwalk debut. Wearing a fluffy skirt and a ruffled top, Cruz held a white rose in her hand, a tribute to her close friend who died on February 19. "There will always be a place in my heart for you, my dear Karl," she wrote on Instagram after his death.
Image: Reuters/R. Duvignau
White roses
The white rose was also a motif among the collection's romantic and feminine hair accessories, as shown here. The black bow was a fashion element the label's founder, Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel, would often use herself. Feathers and brooches were other trends featured in the latest Chanel collection.
Image: Reuters/R. Duvignau
The handbags
Lagerfeld was renowned as the "master of reinvention," revisiting the codes first established by Coco Chanel, whose quilted handbag remains an absolute classic. Colorful, furry versions of it made a remarkable appearance at the latest Paris Fashion Week show.
Image: Reuters/R. Duvignau
A touch of color
But it wasn't only a black-and-white show of mourning, as these models demonstrate. Along with colorful overcoats in primary colors, the collection featured belt pouches with Chanel's iconic double-C logo and furry winter boots.
Image: Reuters/R. Duvignau
Model muse
One of Lagerfeld's muses, German model Claudia Schiffer was among the stars attending the Chanel show. It was thanks to the designer that she became a supermodel in the 1990s: "Karl was my magic dust, he transformed me from a shy German girl into a supermodel," she wrote about him after his death.
Image: Reuters/S. Mahe
The successor
Virginie Viard, shown here alongside Lagerfeld at the Chanel show in 2018, was given equal credit with the late designer for the latest collection. As the designer's longtime "right and left hand," she is taking over the creative direction of the label.
Image: picture-alliance/dpa/I. Aldama
An emotional farewell
Cara Delevingne (left), one of Lagerfeld's most recent muses, opened the show with a tweed black and white winter outfit, with a revealing V-neck covered with jewelry. She's shown here leading the way as models return for a final bow at the end of the presentation. As they saluted the creator who had such an impact on their lives, many of them struggled to hold back their tears.
Image: Reuters/R. Duvignau
8 images1 | 8
Vogue's editor-in-chief Anna Wintour, top model Claudia Schiffer, who was Lagerfeld's muse in the 1990s, as well as Monica Belluci and Korean K-pop singer Jennie were among the stars attending the event in the first row.
Setting an upbeat tone before the begin of the presentation, every guest was given a drawing of the designer alongside the brand's founder, Coco Chanel, accompanied by the caption, "The beat goes on." The tribute to the German-born creator reflected the "Kaiser's" dry wit by avoiding teary displays of mourning.
While his punchy statements grabbed headlines, Lagerfeld's leadership of famous haute couture fashion house Chanel is what truly made him a star. The prolific designer oversaw the brand for the last 37 years, leading it through a variety of changes, which included, ironically, incorporating sweatpants into the fashion lineup — even though he had also famously declared that sweatpants were "a sign of defeat."
He turned German model Claudia Schiffer into a superstar, but she was not the only one. Many of the models hired by Chanel's legendary designer were also his muses. Here's how they paid tribute to their mentor.
Image: picture-alliance/AP/L. Cironneau
Claudia Schiffer
Lagerfeld had an inestimable impact on the career of Claudia Schiffer (far right on this picture). "Karl was my magic dust, he transformed me from a shy German girl" into one of the world's most famous top models in the 1990s, she said. "What Warhol was to art, he was to fashion; he is irreplaceable," she wrote on her Instagram account in tribute to her legendary mentor.
Image: picture-alliance/AP/L. Cironneau
Ines de la Fressange
Lagerfeld saw her as the archetype of "the Parisienne." One of his earliest and most iconic muses, French model Ines de la Fressange (right) was the first to sign an exclusive contract with Chanel, in 1983. "He was the opposite of the great couturier who had to suffer to create. He did nothing but work yet he refused to make it look like work," she told press agency AFP after his death.
Image: picture-alliance/dpa/H. Ballhausen
Stella Tennant
Lagerfeld felt the androgynous elegance of British model Stella Tennant perfectly reflected the spirit of Coco Chanel, and Tennant became another one of his muses. He described her as "the face and attitude of our times. She does not correspond to the glamour of the '90s. She is truly a beauty for the end of the century."
Image: picture-alliance/abaca/C. Guibbaud
Baptiste Giabiconi
He initially worked at a helicopter manufacturing company before becoming a model — and Lagerfeld's muse. If Giabiconi (left) is now one of the world's top male models, it's thanks to his "guardian angel," as he described the designer on Instagram after his death. "Today I lost a part of me, a pygmalion, a father, a landmark."
Image: picture-alliance/dpa/epa/I. Langsdon
Lily-Rose Depp
The daughter of French star Vanessa Paradis — another one of Lagerfeld's muses — and actor Johnny Depp became a Chanel ambassador in 2015, just like her mother did in 1991. "Words can't express how much your belief in me has impacted every aspect of my life," she wrote on Instagram. "The world will never know another force like you."
Image: picture-alliance/AP Photo/F. Mori
Kaia Gerber
Another one who is following her famous mother's catwalk footsteps, Cindy Crawford's daughter, Kaia Gerber, was only 16 when Lagerfeld first hired her to walk for Chanel. "My dearest Karl, you have taught me things that I am eternally grateful for," she wrote on Twitter. "The world is more beautiful now because of you."
Image: picture-alliance/dpa/C. Charisius
Cara Delevingne
Lagerfeld saw English model Cara Delevingne as the Charlie Chaplin of the fashion world. "She is a kind of genius, like a character out of a silent movie," he said. Her tribute on Instagram also expressed how he changed her life: "He believed in me when so many others didn’t including myself […] He is a visionary, a genius but more than that.... a dear friend."
The Canadian model (at Lagerfeld's left, along with Cindy Crawford and Claudia Schiffer) began working with the Chanel designer in 1985, and became one of the most influential models of all time. Lagerfeld once said of her, "There is not another model in the world as professional as she is." After his death, she posted a picture of them together, and simply wrote: "Great love of my life."
Image: picture-alliance/dpa/AP/R. De La Mauviniere
8 images1 | 8
Lagerfeld's succession
Overseeing the collection this time around is Lagerfeld's closest collaborator, Virginie Viard, who has worked with him for over three decades; Lagerfeld had described her as his "right and left hand."
Viard started at Chanel as an intern and only left to work with Lagerfeld for five years at Chloe — another French brand for which he worked for 25 years — before she returned to Chanel as haute couture coordinator.
It remains unclear how many of the pieces appearing on the catwalk today were designed by Lagerfeld himself, but given his close partnership with Viard, perhaps it doesn't really matter.
The designer, a self-proclaimed workaholic, was known for hand-drawing ideas he would give to her to realize."I understand him and I can sublimate what he wants to do and bring to Chanel," Viard told French press agency AFP in a 2015 interview.
Last week, Chanel's owners dispelled rumors that Viard would only temporarily take over as the creative head of the house until they'd line up another big name, stating that they had absolute "confidence in the team that worked with Karl Lagerfeld for over 30 years."
Chanel has announced that a actual farewell event for Lagerfeld will take place at a later date and not as part of Tuesday's show. The designer was cremated at a simple ceremony attended by only his closest friends and colleagues.
Lagerfeld was known to attend every show put on by the fashion house. However, in January, illness kept him from attending Chanel's haute couture presentation for the first time.