Ellen von Unwerth celebrated in London photo retrospective
Sabrina Cooper
May 4, 2018
The work of the iconic German photographer known for images that capture playful, sensual and bold women is the subject a new retrospective, "Ladyland," that explores 30 years of empowering feminine image-making.
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How Ellen von Unwerth's photography reveals genuine, liberated women
One of the most celebrated fashion photographers of the past 30 years puts down her success to embracing, and not denying, female sensuality.
Image: Ellen von Unwerth
Milk
"No matter if they are commercial or editorial shots, powerful storytelling is definitely her signature style," said Sebastien Plantin, curator of "Ladyland" at Opera Gallery in London's Mayfair. The show includes '90s icons such as Kate Moss (pictured), Claudia Schiffer and Naomi Campbell in playful, sensual, feminine visuals that are hallmarks of von Unwerth's photographic oeuvre.
Image: Ellen von Unwerth
Ellen von Unwerth
Born in 1954 in Frankfurt, Ellen von Unwerth lost her parents at an early age. Despite having a dramatic start to life, von Unwerth's life changed at age 20 when a photographer spotted her in Munich and invited her to pose in front of the camera. She moved to Paris and worked as a model for 10 years before she discovered her love of photography.
Image: Ellen von Unwerth
Claudia Schiffer
In 1989, von Unwerth was working for British fashion designer, Katharine Hamnett, as a photographer. In the same year, two major forces in the fashion industry would come together. Ellen von Unwerth discovered Claudia Schiffer and essentially launched her career with iconic photos from this Guess campaign. Von Unwerth's own photography career was also kickstarted by the collaboration.
Image: Ellen von Unwerth
The Mask
"Her pictures are not only aesthetically pleasant, but they are also educational because they express a more sophisticated approach to femininity. In Ellen's photographic world, women can stand alone and be in control, they are self-assured and emancipated from the male figure," explained Plantin, in understanding von Unwerth's role within the context of the #MeToo movement.
Image: Ellen von Unwerth
Naomi's rollers
"I always organize my shoots like movies. Initially I have a narrative in my mind, it can often be a mixture of inspirations, and I can work from that. Which means, I can write a little story, then cast the people accordingly, choose the location and the crew, and always work with music on set that fits the story," said von Unwerth in the catalog for her show.
Image: Ellen von Unwerth
Big in America
Von Unwerth has been known to capture her subjects in the most genuine moments, and she has admitted that she has continued to photograph them when they believed the shoot was over. Her artistic ideology reflects her own life: "My creative philosophy is very simple and includes everything I do: I love life and I love to capture it. I want to share it with people now and for generations to come."
Image: Ellen von Unwerth
Haute couture
Von Unwerth garners inspiration from a variety of places. "I take pictures all the time and I am always thinking about new narratives to feed my work," von Unwerth said. "I am lucky that I get inspired by many various sources in life: art, cinema, music, fashion of course, but also people in general, a scene that I see on the street, some paparazzi pictures among many things."
Image: Ellen von Unwerth
Kiss me quick
Plantin explained how the name of the show, "Ladyland," was inspired: "Originally the title was different, but one day Ellen called me in one of her Eureka moments, as she had dreamt of the perfect name for the show: Ladyland. It's emblematic of the world of wonders and delight that her photos encapsulate."
Image: Ellen von Unwerth
Peaches
Having produced innumerable photos over a long-running career, von Unwerth has witnessed a shift in audience opinion. "People's reactions, which reflect the perceptions that they have, have evolved tremendously in the past number of years," she said. "What was provocative back then is considered normal today. For example, when I shot two women kissing 30 years ago, people found it shocking."
Image: Ellen von Unwerth
Tree of love
Von Unwerth had been a model in front of the camera before she went behind the lens, and this experience differentiates her from male contemporaries, Plantin believes. "Sometimes male photographers seem to patronize female models, whereas it appears to me that Ellen has an equal, genuine and authentic approach with her sitters."
Image: Ellen von Unwerth
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Playful, erotic, woman-focused, ultra feminine. The signature style of German fashion photographer Ellen von Unwerth — including a passion for oversaturated colors — has been unmistakable throughout her illustrious career.
It's fitting then that "Ladyland," a new retrospective opening May 4 at Opera Gallery in London, puts von Unwerth's images where her models usually are — front and center and under the lights.
A show that reopens a dialogue about the objectification of women in fashion, "Ladyland" also comes at a particularly relevant time as the #MeToo movement ignites a powerful debate about sexual harassment and inequality in the entertainment industry.
Born in Frankfurt in 1954, von Unwerth lost her parents at age two and spent her youth between orphanages and foster homes.
But despite these circumstances, she looks back affectionately on this time in her autobiography "Fräulein" — which also explores the female icons she later photographed including Claudia Schiffer and Kate Moss.
"I didn't suffer too much," Unwerth wrote of her early years. "In fact, I remember my childhood as being very happy."
Shortly after she graduated from high school in Munich, Von Unwerth worked as a circus assistant performing stunts and magic. At age 20, she was approached by a photographer on the street and was invited to model.
Moving to Paris, von Unwerth worked in front of the camera for several years until her boyfriend gifted her a camera. Having felt limited as a model, her yearning for creative freedom was unleashed when she began to take photos, as she recently told CNN:
"I was a model for 10 years and I was so frustrated, I was lively and always had fun ideas but the photographers were always like, just stand there, look to the left, look to the right, don't smile."
From model to fashion photographer
Von Unwerth's years of frustration fueled creativity. Her keen eye and sense of style also soon helped the budding photographer unearth 17-year-old German model Claudia Schiffer.
"I couldn't believe how much she resembled Brigitte Bardot," von Unwerth said in an April interview with Vogue magazine. "From that moment, I pushed her look with heavy eyeliner and big hair."
The iconic Guess ad from 1989 with Schiffer in a lace bustier essentially launched the careers both of von Unwerth as photographer and Schiffer as model.
This legendary image is a feature of the "Ladyland" exhibition that curator Sebastian Plantin says is a celebration of 30 years of provocative fashion photography.
"This retrospective is an eclectic collection that ranges from the most iconic photos of supermodels, such as Kate Moss, Claudia Schiffer and Naomi Campbell, to her latest and most playful project shot in Bavaria," Plantin told DW. "I also decided to include some of her most provocative photos, as they are representative of her way of pushing boundaries in contemporary photography."
'Independent, sexually emancipated'
Von Unwerth's images of scantily clad women posing sensually and acting mischievously may have raised eyebrows over the years, but the underlying theme of her photography is to empower women by portraying them in many different lights.
"Ellen celebrates womanhood in her photography," said Plantin. "Her pictures convey an important message: women are surprising creatures that, on the one hand can be fragile and frivolous, and on the other hand forceful and strong. It is not about being a tenacious or a soft feminist. I would rather highlight how the women in her shots are represented as independent, sexually emancipated and not subjected to men."
By continuing to photograph models when they think the shoot is finished, Von Unwerth's sought to capture the most genuine images of her subjects and thus bring the female gaze and a feminist perspective to the fore.
"There are very few male photographers who are capable of capturing meaningful moments in a woman's life without making it look fictitious and staged," said Plantin. "Ellen has a better angle and a more profound insight into the fragility and strengths of a woman, being a woman herself and having experienced the other side of the camera as a model for many years."
Claudia Schiffer: The supermodel at 50
German-born supermodel Claudia Schiffer stood at the pinnacle of the fashion world during modeling's golden age. We review as she turns 50 on August 25.
Image: Getty Images/AFP/P. Verdy
From schoolgirl to cover girl
German supermodel Claudia Schiffer initially planned to be a lawyer like her father. All that changed in 1987 when the 17-year-old was discovered in a Dusseldorf disco by a modeling agent who invited her to go to Paris for a trial shoot. Shortly after, fashion photographer Ellen von Unwerth shot Claudia for the cover of "Elle." Just a few years later, she appeared at the Chanel show in 1990.
Image: picture-alliance/United Archives/W. Kühn
Karl Lagerfeld's muse
Success came rapidly for the newbie model. Von Unwerth photographed Claudia for a Guess jeans campaign and in 1988, top designer Karl Lagerfeld (left) declared her to be his muse, also making her the new face of Chanel. Her bright blue eyes shone out from the covers of all the top fashion magazines, and she walked global runways for designers such as Versace, Valentino and Dolce & Gabbana.
Image: Imago
The golden age of supermodels
In the 1990s, Claudia (right) was earning around $10 million per year. It was the apex of the supermodel era, a decadent decade filled with alcohol, astronomical fees and first-name global fame. But Claudia's reputation within the industry was one of discipline and standoffishness. "Maybe I should have had a glass of champagne now and then," she told German newspaper "Süddeutsche Zeitung" in 2014.
Image: AP
Enchanted by a magician
In 1993, the then 23-year-old met star magician David Copperfield (right) at a gala in Berlin and became engaged in 1994. Claudia even appeared in some of Copperfield's stage acts. However, after a few years the magic faded from their romance; in 1997, they announced their split, citing incompatible work schedules. There were rumors that the romance was not real, but just a business relationship.
Image: AP
Family life
Claudia continued a full-steam modeling career into the early 2000s. But her priorities shifted after marrying film director Matthew Vaughn in 2002 and starting a family. She scaled back her work to spend time with her husband and their three children: Caspar (left), Clementine (right) and Cosima (not pictured).
Image: AP
Beyond the runway
The Rheinberg-born model made her home in London, where she appeared on a series of 2006 tube ads highlighting German investment (above). Her project portfolio diversified in the new millennium: She launched a cashmere collection in 2011, as well as designed a series of glasses frames for the German eyewear company Rodenstock. She also appeared in a minor role in the hit movie "Love Actually."
Image: picture-alliance/ dpa
Tributes to a supermodel
In August 2017, Prestel Verlag published a commemorative book of photos and text tributes from the photographers and designers who have worked with the supermodel. Here, the cover photograph of the book she is signing shows the mother of three in a nude photo by Mario Testino for "Vogue" in Paris in 2007.
Image: picture-alliance/dpa/B. Pedersen
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Immortalizing her subjects
Indeed, Von Unwerth's work was a reaction to the objectification that was so closely bound to fashion photography.
"I think it is important to understand that I photograph women as subjects and not objects," she stated in the "Ladyland" catalogue. "What I want to immortalize is a woman's personality enhanced and exposed. Often, women appear self-assured, having a lot of fun in my pictures, and that is because it is what is actually happening during the shooting."
This approach has been taken up by contemporary fashion photographers like Petra Collins, who has been garnering attention and acclaim for depicting women in clothing and environments as close to "natural" as possible.
Von Unwerth's long-running career and well-established professional relationships with notable women in the fashion industry have kept her popular and sought-after, yet she has continued to march to the beat of her own drum.
"Ladyland" runs May 4 through May 18 at London's Opera Gallery.