Carnival starts in Cologne's streets on Thursday and as always, it will draw thousands of revelers. If you follow the wise articles of Cologne's "Basic Law," you, too, can enjoy what people there call the "fifth season."
Image: Reuters/W. Rattay
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§1 Et es wie et es (Things are as they are)
Look the facts in the eye! From Women's Carnival on Thursday to Violet Tuesday a week later, the clocks tick differently in Cologne, a stronghold of Carnival in the Rhineland. People go crazy: they squeeze into crowded pubs, drink lots of beer and sing songs in the local dialect. They dress up, wear wigs and costumes, and that's not only in the streets. If you go to the bank on Thursday, don't be surprised if the teller is a clown with a bright red nose. And don't be too disappointed that a cold meatball with mustard is the only thing on the menu in most pubs.
When in Rome, or rather Cologne, do as the locals do! The "fifth season" has its own peculiarities. People may party from morning until night on Women's Carnival, but Friday is a regular workday. In the evening, however, the clowns, pirates and witches line up to get into their favorite bars for some more partying. The people of Cologne mainly have their city to themselves on Carnival Friday, but on Saturday, hordes of tourists start pouring in from across the country. Pubs open in the early afternoon and parties often last until the early morning hours.
Traditional costumes at the Rose Monday paradeImage: picture-alliance/dpa
§3 Et hätt noch immer joot jejange (Things always work out in the end)
Relax! If you've managed to survive the first three days, you've clearly figured out how best to "do" Carnival in Cologne. If you partied all of Saturday, you can take it easy on Sunday. People who plan to go to the Rose Monday parade the next day — it starts at 11:11 am — go to bed early to be fit for the long day ahead.
The only thing that never survives Carnival is a man-sized rag doll called the "Nubbel" that is mounted outside many bars. On Tuesday night, just before Ash Wednesday, the rag doll will be the one who has to pay for people's sins during the fifth season: he is burned. The largest ceremony takes place in Cologne's Kwartier Latäng student district, where Nubbels from the many surrounding bars are collectively reduced to ashes in a huge bonfire. Needless to say, parties continue in the bars until the early morning hours.
Farewll, Nubbel!Image: picture-alliance/dpa
§4 Wat fott is, is fott (What's gone, is gone)
Don't fret if you've lost something! Make sure you travel lightly, and put your valuables in your pockets. People lose cell phones, hats, glasses, wallets, feather boas and much more. Hundreds of coats are left behind in checkrooms throughout the city on a single evening. And only few are ever picked up again because, often enough, the owners will have forgotten where they dropped the coats off in the first place.
§5 Et bliev nix wie et wor (Nothing stays the same)
Be open to everything new! Music is a big part of Carnival in Cologne. For a long time, four bands dominated the scene: Bläck Fööss, Höhner, Paveier and Brings. But that has changed, and for the past few years a new, young generation of musicians has captured the hearts of the crowds with cheeky lyrics, loud rock music and Cuban tunes.
§6 Kenne mer nit, bruche mer nit, fott domet (Don't know it, don't want it, out it goes)
On the other hand, you don't want to overdo embracing everything new either! In particular new acquaintances. Alcohol flows freely and people are in a good mood, so the atmosphere is extremely relaxed ... which inevitably leads to some smooching. Don't be too disappointed if the cute little devil you just cuddled is kissing some other cowboy half an hour later.
German carnival season kicks off
Every year on 11/11, at 11:11 a.m., costumed people storm the town halls and symbolically take power for the coming weeks. It marks the beginning of the carnival season, which Germans also call the "fifth season."
Image: dapd
The significance of all those elevens
Since the Middle Ages, the number 11 has stood for excess and sin. A number with repeated digits is known as a "Schnapszahl" (schnapps number) in German. Fortunately, this year, carnival revelers don't have to heed coronavirus safety regulations, meaning they can party and enjoy themselves just like in the old days.
Image: picture-alliance/dpa/F. von Erichsen
The Hoppeditz awakens
This jester-like figure is typical of Düsseldorf. At 11:11 a.m. on the dot, the Hoppeditz climbs out of a mustard pot in front of the town hall and heralds the start of the fifth season.
Image: picture-alliance/dpa/F. Gambarini
The Cologne triumvirate
Cologne's Carnival triumvirate — known as the Kölner Dreigestirn — conisting of a virgin, prince and farmer assumes regency over all fools. They are invited as guests to various events during carnival season.
Image: picture-alliance/dpa/O. Berg
Swollen heads in Mainz
Mainz carnival season opens with cries of "Helau." These typical giant papier-mache heads called "Schwellköppe," or "swollen heads," are always part of the big procession.
Image: Reuters/R. Orlowski
Carnival in Cottbus
Rumor has it that carnival is celebrated only in western Germany. But the eastern German city of Cottbus proves that's not the case. On 11/11, the dancers known as Funkenmariechen kick up their heels and the mayor hands over the key to the city.
Image: dapd
Carnival stage shows
After the raucous beginning of the carnival season on 11/11, things quiet down during Advent. But in the new year, revelers turn up the volume again: the carnival societies invite people to their large stage shows and balls.
Image: picture alliance
Weiberfastnacht
On Weiberfastnacht, Old Wives' Day, carnival really gets into gear. On Thursday before Shrove Monday — at 11:11 a.m., of course — women storm the town halls. The street carnival takes off and revellers party on the streets and squares. The six "crazy days" begin.
Image: picture-alliance/dpa/H. Galuschka
Smooching
Of course, men can also party along on Weiberfastnacht, but they should watch out: traditionally women chop off their neckties. Still, at least they get a "Bützchen," or "little kiss," in exchange, as a sign that it's all in good fun.
Image: Reuters/T. Schmuelgen
Rose Monday
The parades on Rose Monday, or Shrove Monday, are the highlight of the carnival season, especially in the Rhineland cities. Thousands of onlookers line the streets to watch the themed floats go by, while revelers on the floats throw flowers and sweets to the crowd.
Image: Reuters/R. Orlowski
Swabian-Alemannic Fasnet
The hand-carved masks are already an unmistakable sign that carnival in southwestern Germany differs from that on the Rhine. The large processions on Shrove Monday and Tuesday are called Narrensprünge — literally "fools' jump." Participants hop and jump through the streets. Rottweil's Narrensprung is famous.
Image: picture alliance/dpa
Ash Wednesday
The Hoppeditz opens the carnival season in Düsseldorf and also ends it. Traditionally the roguish figure is burned in effigy or buried in a coffin on Ash Wednesday amid weeping and wailing. It's coupled with the hope that the Hoppeditz will rise again and usher in the "fifth season" the next time November 11th rolls around.
Image: picture-alliance/dpa
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§7 Wat wellste maache? (What are you going to do?)
Accept your fate! Wherever you go, it's going to be crowded and long lines form in front of bars, bathrooms, cloakrooms and snack bars. It will be noisy, too. If that's not your cup of tea, it's best to take a vacation and leave the city for a few days, which is what many so-called "Carnival fugitives" do.
§8 Maach et jot ävver net ze off (Do a good job, but don't overdo it)
Pay attention to your health! Remember, you'll be outdoors a good part of the time, watching a parade or waiting in line to get into a pub. Once inside, it's tropical. If you venture outdoors again, hot and sweaty, to catch a breath of fresh air or have a cigarette, be careful not to catch cold. After Carnival, half the city is under the weather and hoarse — and that's not only due to the singing.
So what's really going on? Why doesn't the Kölsch beer taste as good as it usually does? People often suspect the beer may be watered down, but it's more likely to go stale more quickly in plastic cups. If you snag a glass that isn't as clean as it could be, just wipe off the lipstick rim. With pubs that crowded, the barstaff may not be as conscientious as usual.
Invite your fellow cowboy or princess to a beer.Image: picture-alliance/dpa
§10 Drinkste eene mit? (You want to have a drink?)
Go ahead and pay for a round of drinks! Most bars ask you to buy tokens. Make sure you get plenty, and if you're buying ask the waiter for a "Kranz" — literally, a wreath — which is a special serving tray for up to 12 glasses. They'll be gone faster than you think. If the person singing and dancing next to you regales you with a radiant smile, give them a Kölsch beer, too — you're sure to be remembered next time around.
§11 Do laachste dich kapott. (Crack up laughing)
Keep your sense of humor! You may know that the cities of Cologne and Dusseldorf are traditionally at loggerheads. In Carnival, they can't even agree on the friendly greeting for the "fifth season": it's Alaaf in Cologne and Helau in the state capital. The two cities also specialize in distinctly different beers: Kölsch in Cologne and Alt in Düsseldorf. As long as you don't order an Alt beer in a Cologne pub you can get away with anything. This freedom means a great deal to the people of Cologne, so Carnival is a wild few days. Join the fray, have fun and there's no doubt that, after a short while, you'll be singing along, too.
The Cologne Basic Law is a collection of 11 worldly wisdoms in the local dialect and are valid all year round...not just during Carnival season.
Alaaf and Helau! Carnival in Germany
Where are the best places to celebrate carnival in Germany? Here are some tips, from Cologne to Cottbus.
Image: Chai von der Laage/IMAGO
Kölle Alaaf!
Kölle Alaaf!: the typical Cologne Carnival greeting can be translated as "Cologne above all!" This cry can be heard throughout the weeklong street festival, which begins in earnest on Thursday and ends on Ash Wednesday. Some 1 million visitors flock to the city on the Rhine to join the celebrations, which tend to take place all day and night, turning the city into a party zone.
Image: Oliver Berg/dpa/picture alliance
Helau Mainz!
Helau, thought to be an old shepherd's call, is used as a carnival greeting today in the city of Mainz. The "Schwellköpp" — oversized papier-mache figures translated as "swollen heads" — have been an important part of the city's carnival for nearly 100 years. They take to the streets during the Rose Monday parades and represent typical Mainz characters. Each weighs about 25 kilograms (55 pounds).
Image: Fredrik von Erichsen/dpa/picture alliance
Helau Düsseldorf!
After Cologne and Mainz, Düsseldorf is the third major Carnival stronghold. There, the battle cry is also "Helau." Carnival begins with the annual symbolic awaking of a character known as "Hoppediz," who on November 11, emerges from a mustard pot. It all ends on Ash Wednesday when a doll representing Hoppediz is set on fire and then buried while onlookers wail in mourning.
Image: Federico Gambarini/dpa/picture alliance
Hu hu hu Rottweil!
Carnival in Baden-Württemberg, known as Fasnet or Fasnacht in the local dialect, is also important. In Rottweil, it's celebrated according to Swabian-Alemannic traditions. Revelers, called larvae, wear hand-carved wooden masks, walk through the town and call out "Hu hu hu." On the Monday and Shrove Tuesday, there is the "Narrensprung" or "Fool's Jump" street procession.
Image: Patrick Seeger/dpa/picture alliance
Ho Narro Konstanz! Hail fools of Constance!
Like Rottweil, the town of Constance on the shores of Lake Constance is small but spirited when it comes to celebrating the Swabian-Alemannic Fasnet carnival. Parades are dominated by the "Blätzlebuebe," the name given to the guild members who dress in "Häs" costumes made of thousands of scraps of material and felt. Their costumes are meant to represent colorful roosters.
Image: Tobias Kleinschmidt/dpa/picture alliance
Fölsch Foll — Hinein! Throw yourself into it in Fulda!
The German state of Hesse also loves to celebrate Carnival. Some 4,000 participants and floats venture 4 kiolmeters (2.4 miles) through Fulda's inner city, making it the biggest Carnival parade in the state. Yet it's small compared to Cologne, since three times as many participants walk twice as far in the Cologne Rose Monday Carnival procession.
Image: Hajo Drabe/dpaweb/picture-alliance
Cottbus Helau!
In eastern Germany, Carnival does not have a longstanding tradition. Nevertheless, it's marked with celebrations and parades. In Cottbus, eastern Germany's largest and most cheerful Carnival procession rolls through the city center. The "procession of happy people" parades through the town, with 4,000 participants, 100 vehicles and even horses involved.
Image: Andreas Franke/zb/picture alliance
Bremen Ahoy!
Bremen-ites enjoy heating things up with samba rhythms and exotic costumes, creating a Carnival inspired by Rio de Janeiro in Brazil. Some 35,000 people come to the Hanseatic city to enjoy the biggest annual samba carnival in Europe. People on stilts, dancers and live music bands participate in the city procession. However, in 2023, it will take place in April.
Image: Carmen Jaspersen/dpa/picture alliance
Narri Narro München! The fools rule Munich!
In Munich, carnival is known as "Fasching," and is celebrated with balls held all over the city. The "München Narrisch" is a three-day festival held outdoors on and around Marienplatz. Don't miss the dance of the market women at the Viktualienmarkt. The women wear extravagant, homemade costumes that relate to what's being sold at their stalls, whether dairy products or flowers.
