Long a mecca for the creative-minded, Berlin has been inspiring fashion trends for centuries. A look at several designers from around the world who now call the German capital home.
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Berlin Fashion Week gets more diverse
A melting pot of immigrants from all nations, Berlin is likewise home to a burgeoning fashion scene. At Berlin Fashion Week, DW looks at how this international diversity is influencing fashion designers.
Image: picture-alliance/dpa
William Fan
Although he was born in Hannover and studied in Arnhem, Netherlands, designer William Fan chose Berlin as home for his eponymous label when he founded it in 2015. Selected in 2016 to be part of the Vogue Salon Germany, William Fan fuses his Asian heritage (his parents emigrated from Hong Kong in the 1960s) with his European upbringing to create modern clothing that is simple, ageless and unisex.
Image: William Fan
Aline Celi
Founded in 2013, Aline Celi is a fashion label named after its Brazilian designer. The designer combines European minimalism in the cuts of the clothing with the passion and strength of her homeland. With a focus on sustainability, the brand employs fair labor and supports social engagement. Her runway show at this year's Berlin Fashion Week was staged as a protest action.
Image: DW/M. Damasceno
Dawid Tomaszewski
Born in Gdansk, Poland, Dawid Tomaszewski divides his time between London and Berlin, where he is presenting his latest collection as part of the Der Berliner Salon showcase at Berlin Fashion Week. The award-winning designer has collaborated with numerous brands, including Swarovski crystals, accessories brand Roeckl and furniture house Rolf Benz.
Lou De Betoly
French designer Odely Teboul had already been in Berlin for six years, working with a partner on the label Augustin Teboul, when she decided to branch out and form her own label, Lou de Betoly. "What you create always comes out of the background of where you come from," Teboul told the authors of the book, Traces: Fashion & Migration.
Image: Jessica Polar
Ivanman
Ivan Mandzukic grew up in the former Yugoslavia. "My parents lost everything in the war," he told the Berliner Zeitung in July 2018. "I never asked myself if I could do something, I just went out and did it." The designer behind Ivanman certainly has done it, creating colorful menswear with crisp lines and attention to detail. He's showing his latest at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin.
Image: picture-alliance/dpa/J. Carstensen
lala Berlin
"I am entirely an Iranian," Leyla Piedayesh says in the book, Traces: Migration & Fashion. The Berlin-based designer came to Germany with her family in 1979 at the age of 9. But the time she spent in Tehran as a child and her foreign heritage have heavily influenced the designer. She uses mosaics and rug patterns in her textiles and makes a traditional Arabic head covering into something new.
Image: picture-alliance/dpa
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Creative people have long been drawn to Berlin. A pulsing metropolis filled with artists and writers, the streets of Germany's capital city have proven inspirational to people from around the world as they pursue their own dreams.
While some may leave after just a few years, others have made Berlin their home, channeling the inspiration they find in their communities into creative endeavors.
That's true of several of the top designers showing their autumn/winter 2019 collections at Berlin Fashion Week until January 18. Not originally from Berlin, they came to the city and started labels of their own. Using elements of their own culture, designers like Leyla Piedayesh of lala Berlin have created a unique take on German fashion.
lala Berlin, perhaps one of the city's most visible fashion labels, has developed a trademark look as it draws on the patterns and mosaics that were a common part of Piedayesh's childhood in Iran and later, Germany.
William Fan, on the other hand, creates minimal looks that both stand out and appear neutral. Genderless and simple in cut, the designs are a fusion between Fan's Asian heritage (his parents emigrated to Germany from Hong Kong) and his European upbringing. It's not only in aesthetics that Fan plays homage to the two worlds he has known; production for his clothing line, based in Berlin, is divided between Hong Kong and Germany.
While the range of styles and aesthetics are as diverse as the designers' backgrounds, the common thread running through these brands is the ways in which their looks have been inspired by Berlin. Designer Odely Teboul came to Berlin from France several years ago; for six years, she and a partner made a name for themselves under the label Augustin Teboul.
The promising young designer William Fan
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As other Berlin brands, like Hien Li, have become well-known around the world and gone on to show in other cities including Paris, Teboul has remained loyal to her adopted hometown, branching out on her own to create the Lou De Betoly label. It's this loyalty to the city that is on display this week at Berlin Fashion Week, as runway venues around the city fill up with the creations of numerous designers who have chosen to call the capital city home.
All dressed up: a look at Berlin Fashion Week
The fashion industry descends on Berlin this week, as designers show their autumn/winter collections.
Image: picture alliance/dpa/M. Skolim
German designers in the spotlight
While Berlin Fashion Week has become a semi-annual tradition, it's not yet on par with the Big Four. "Vogue" Germany's editor-in-chief Christiane Arp is OK with that, saying she'd like to focus on promoting the talented designers Germany has at home. This week's schedule reflects that, with a majority of labels showing in Berlin coming from around the country.
Image: Picture-Alliance/dpa/B. Pedersen
New venues
After spending several seasons in the shadow of the Brandenburg Gate, the runway events on the official Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week schedule have moved. The autumn/winter 2017 collection showings are now held in Berlin's bustling Mitte neighborhood at the empty department store, Kaufhaus Jandorf. It's the former home of the GDR's "Haus der Mode," which has recently been reopened for events.
Among the big-name designers on the official Berlin Fashion Week schedule is Holy Ghost, a label launched in 2010. Started by two friends with Yugoslav roots, Sedina Halilovic and Jelena Hofmann, the label is based in Munich but shows in Berlin twice yearly, including here at the AW2017 shows taking place in Kaufhaus Jandorf. Holy Ghosts sells their upmarket womenswear in 12 countries.
Image: Reuters/H. Hanschke
Lena Hoschek
Inspired in her designs by the shape of the dirndl, traditional womenswear in Germany, designer Lena Hoschek appeared to be flouting the all-black aesthetic that's become something of a trademark in Berlin with a bubblegum, balloon-filled show on Tuesday.
Image: Picture-Alliance/dpa/B. Pedersen
Dare to bare: womenswear
Designers, like many artists in Europe, may be feeling creative pangs due to the unstable political climate, but that isn't showing up in their work. Here, Hoschek appears to be counteracting the doom and gloom with a springy gown that looks a bit bare for the autumn/winter weather.
Image: Picture-Alliance/dpa/B. Pedersen
Beautiful in burgundy
Danny Reinke's show at the me Collectors Room also veered away from the signature black-and-white, featuring styles in maroon, burgundy and pale pink. Reinke, a lecturer at the Fahmoda Academy for Fashion and Design in Hannover, is the recipient of the 2011 Golden Charlie innovation prize in the category "Gala and Festive Fashion" and the 2014 European Fashion Award.
Image: picture alliance/dpa/S. Stache
'Fun-feminine twist'
This fondness for color also showed up in the Malaikaraiss show at the Berliner Mode Salon on Tuesday. Berlin-based designer Malaika Raissis is behind the label which, according to the Berlin Fashion Week website, offers "sophisticated yet casual women's wear with a fun-feminine twist."
Image: Picture-alliance/dpa/M. Skolimowska
Return to norms
With her monochromatic styling, Esther Perbandt presented a return to the much-loved all-black look at her show at the Volksbühne on Tuesday evening. Perbandt, who was born and raised in Berlin, has also lived in Moscow and Paris, where she completed a master's degree in fashion and textile design and did postgraduate work at the Institut Francais de la Mode.
Image: picture alliance/dpa/S. Stache
Ready to move
The Sportalm runway show on Wednesday was a high-energy affair, with models showing off the latest sporting fashions. The Tyrol company, which focuses on traditional costumes, activewear and ski outfits, is based in Kitzbühel, Austria, and led by creative director Ulli Ehrlich.
Image: picture alliance/dpa/M. Skolim
On or off the slopes
Sportalm took the week's autumn/winter theme to heart. The show at the Kaufhaus Jandorf showcased the latest in ski apparel, perfect for hitting the slopes or simply strutting down the streets of Berlin (ski goggles optional).