Two of Germany's most beloved spring and summer snacks — asparagus and strawberries — are increasingly less attractive for farmers to grow. Less space is being devoted to growing them, and prices are rising.
Strawberries and asparagus — long symbols of German spring — are fast turning into luxury goodsImage: Udo Herrmann/CHROMORANGE/picture alliance
Experts have warned that the trend looks set to continue as rising costs make growing the crops increasingly unviable for farmers.
What do the figures look like?
Preliminary data showed just 75,500 tons of open-field strawberries were harvested — the lowest level in 30 years and 4% below the already low 2024 figures. The asparagus harvest also hit a 15-year low, with only 98,900 tons collected in open fields, the smallest yield since 2010.
The slump is largely down to a shrinkage in the amount of land given over to growing both products.
In 2025, farmers planted 4% less land with strawberries and 6% less with asparagus.
Why are farmers growing less?
Many growers say they can no longer cover rising costs — especially wages — through prices passed on to consumers.
"At the end of the day, we're all businesspeople," said Karsten Schmal, president of the Hessian Farmers' Association. "If the risk becomes too great, people stop growing these crops."
Germany's love affair with asparagus, the 'vegetable of kings'
Springtime in Germany means the countdown is on for the country's annual feast on a vegetable known as "white gold." White asparagus — work-intensive and costly even today — used to be available to nobility only.
Image: picture-alliance/dpa/R. Hirschberger
Take the 'Asparagus Road'
When makeshift stalls and signs advertising fresh asparagus pop up along the roadside, Germans know it's "Spargelzeit," the brief asparagus season. Over a few weeks, people go wild with asparagus dishes and every restaurant has a special asparagus menu. In North Rhine-Westphalia, 140 farms have mapped out a distinctive culinary route they've called the "Spargelstrasse" (Asparagus Road).
Image: picture alliance/L. Halbauer
Crisp, slender spears
Customers have a choice of different qualities, the most expensive being the stalks that are straight, have a length of about 22 centimeters and tightly closed tips, followed by less-perfect spears – too thin, bended – or even broken. No fuss: some stalls sell ready-peeled asparagus, as unlike the green variety, white asparagus must be peeled.
Image: DW/D. Breitenbach
Perfect, broken or peeled
Germans can never seem to get enough of the slender white stalks only available for a few weeks each year: the season begins in mid April and invariably ends on June 24. Supermarkets, farms, farmer's markets and roadside vendors categorize and price the vegetable according to length and tips. In 2018, customers paid an average of €5.48 ($6.18) for a kilo of white asparagus.
Image: DW/D. Breitenbach
A classic dish
The "vegetable of kings" is traditionally served with melted butter or creamy rich Hollandaise sauce, boiled new potatoes and thin slices of cold ham. From soups, tartes and omelettes to schnapps, there's no limit to people's creativity when it comes to asparagus.
Image: Imago/Strussfoto
Asparagus history
Asparagus was a delicacy even in ancient times. Roman historian Marcus Porcius Cato described its cultivation in his book "De agri cultura." King Louis XIV had asparagus grown in Versailles in 17th century France. In 1852, a cannery in the German town of Brunswick started canning asparagus: Finally, it was available year-round.
Image: Getty Images/AFP/S. Bozon
Harvested by hand
The stalks grow under long mounds of heaped soil, and unlike green asparagus, they need to be harvested before they reach the sunlight. It is labor-intensive work, as every single stalk is harvested by hand. In 2017, many thousands of workers — mainly from Romania and Poland — cut some 129,600 tons of white asparagus in Germany during the short season.
Image: Imago/R. Unkel
Queen of the stalks
In spring, asparagus-growing regions all over Germany invariably crown a new asparagus queen. The young women, often growers' daughters, promote and represent the seasonal delicacy. The state of North Rhine-Westphalia, which is the most populous in Germany, requires "candidates to be between 18 and 25 years old and definitely independently mobile so they can cover events on their own."
Image: picture-alliance/dpa/S. Stein
A museum of its own
A museum in the Bavarian town of Schrobenhausen is dedicated solely to the royal vegetable. Opened in a 15th century tower in 1985, the museum was turned into the only European Asparagus Museum six years later. The exhibits shine a light on everything asparagus, including agriculture, history, literature, art and curios, including the above tongs.
Image: DW
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Growers like Georg Merlau, an asparagus farmer in Darmstadt, told the DPA news agency that only premium outlets, such as on-farm shops, offer prices that make production of the prized stalks viable. Merlau said he had already cut his asparagus acreage from 105 to 80 hectares, citing sizable annual increases in labor costs.
Germany's self-sufficiency in strawberries has fallen sharply, from 68% in 2015 to just 50% today, according to the Agricultural Market Information Company (AMI). One exception to the decline with strawberries is protected cultivation — berries grown in greenhouses or under high covers. Such setups offer longer seasons, easier harvesting while standing, and higher yields per hectare.
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What does it mean for cost?
Strawberries and asparagus are rapidly turning into luxury items.
This year, white German asparagus cost consumers an average of €9.63 (roughly $11.22) per kilo, up 4% from last year. Strawberries averaged €6.86 per kilo between May and mid-July, nearly unchanged from 2024, but up 70% compared to 2015.
Demand for both foods remains great. They are highly seasonal and associated with the joys of summer and springtime.
Why do Germans love asparagus so much?
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Asparagus is particularly beloved among Germans, with "Spargelzeit" (asparagus season) a cultural event marked by dedicated menus and roadside stands. Some German communities even have asparagus festivals, complete with the crowning of an Asparagus Queen.