Germany: Cologne defends local brew against 'impostor'
Timothy Jones
December 13, 2020
A beer called Colonia from the state of Hesse has been banned from sale in Cologne and its surrounding state of North Rhine-Westphalia. Officials fear it could be confused with the Rhineland's famous Kölsch brew.
The problem with Colonia beer is that it's not produced in or near Cologne, officials sayImage: picture-alliance/dpa/BraufactuM
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The western German city of Cologne is known for its laid-back attitude, epitomized in its world-famous Carnival celebrations.
The consumer protection agency from the state of North Rhine-Westphalia (NRW) has now banned a beer called Colonia, produced by a Frankfurt brewery, from being sold in NRW, where Cologne is situated.
The State Agency for Nature, Environment and Consumer Protection (LANUV) said the Frankfurt beer's name and label could lead consumers to think they were buying Kölsch, a beer that is brewed in Cologne and the surrounding area.
The word Colonia harks back to the Latin name of the Roman colony from which the city developed, Colonia Claudia Ara Agrippinensium. The label of the Colonia beer features the contours of Cologne's iconic cathedral and one of its landmark bridges. Advertising for the beer said that its character recalled "a Kölsch in its original classic form."
The term "Kölsch" has a protectedgeographicalindication (PGI) within the European Union, meaning that a beer can be sold under that name only if it is brewed within 50 kilometres (30 miles) of the city of Cologne.
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Like Italian ham
The NRW officials have placed a complete ban on "storing, offering, keeping for sale, delivering, selling or otherwise bringing into circulation" the Colonia beer.
LANUV compared the case with that of Prosciutto di Parma, a type of ham that can be sold under that name only if it is produced in the Italian region of Parma.
Like Kölsch, this ham specialty from Parma is also protected by EU regulationsImage: picture-alliance/dpa
The brewery in Frankfurt said it was surprised at the new ban, as its beer had been marketed since 2009. But it would not contest the ruling, it told the DPA news agency, as it would be focusing on other brands from January onward.
However, it expressed regret that the ban meant that "a completely perfect and, incidentally, extremely delicious product" would no longer be on sale in NRW.
The NRW officials said they had come across the Colonia brand during routine controls on the internet.
Cologne Carnival: 11 tips for beginners
Cologne Carnival is in full swing! That means six days of nonstop partying. Here's a guide on what to wear, where to go and how to make the most of this jolly time.
Image: picture-alliance/R. Goldmann
What on earth is a Jeck?
It's what anyone celebrating Carnival in Cologne is called. Don't shy away from revelers you don't know. Just follow their lead. If they link arms with you, just sway along with them to the music. If they grab hold of your shoulders, it's to form a "polonaise" conga line. That's a good thing! Even better: Sing along even if you don't know the words. After all, you've got six days to learn them.
Don't be alarmed — kissing is a popular custom throughout the festivities, especially on Weiberfastnacht, the day when women take charge. It marks the start of the street Carnival. What is known here as a "Bützchen" can be a peck on the cheek or a kiss, and is an expression of Carnival high spirits, not to be confused with less respectable motives. Only spoilsports refuse a friendly kiss.
Image: picture-alliance/dpa/O. Berg
At the very least, wear a hat
Dress up in a boring sailor costume? Cologne natives won't stand for that. Real Jecks can be recognized by their imaginative homemade costumes. At Carnival, there's no such thing as being overdressed. By consensus, a hat is the absolute minimum you are expected to wear. When decorating it, let your imagination run free — the weirder the better.
Image: picture-alliance/dpa/O. Berg
Clever costumes
Anything goes! A Carnival costume is ideal when it's fit for partying outdoors, since the title "street Carnival" should be taken literally. But it should also adapt to indoor revelries in bars or taverns. With all that beer drinking going on, the perfect costume should also serve another important practical purpose: it should cause you no trouble if you need to use the toilet.
Image: picture-alliance/dpa/R. Vennenbernd
A feast for the ears
Drumming is a sound heard frequently during Cologne's Carnival. Wherever music groups and marching bands can be found, high spirits are guaranteed. People dance spontaneously, sing and sway until the wee hours. The feel-good musicians don't just come from Cologne and the surrounding areas, but from all over Europe to join the fun. So get going and follow them!
Image: picture-alliance/Fotostand/Metzemacher
Get your tickets early
Weiberfastnacht: At exactly 11 minutes past 11 on Thursday, Carnival officially opens with a huge stage show on the Alter Markt in Cologne's old town. The city's best Carnival bands perform here. It's so popular that the square is already bursting at the seams at 9 a.m. You can only get in with a ticket, so it's not for spontaneous visitors. But people are partying elsewhere as well.
Image: picture-alliance/dpa/R. Vennenbernd
Party in moderation
Even on ordinary days, the Zülpicher Strasse near the university is popular for its bars and restaurants. During and after Weiberfastnacht, it's a hot spot of alcoholic excess — unfortunately. In the eyes of locals, binge drinking has nothing to do with Carnival. They steer clear of this street. It's more relaxing to celebrate on Severinstrasse, for instance.
Image: picture-alliance/R. Goldmann
Get jolly gracefully
If you want to party like a local, head to a pub or Brauhaus. It's worth avoiding the overcrowded area around Cologne Cathedral. Partying happens in every district, without exception. Standing in line is part of the experience and usually enjoyable, because you strike up conversations and maybe practice a song or two in Kölsch, the name of both Cologne's dialect as well as its beer.
Image: picture-alliance/dpa/H. Kaiser
Kölsch etiquette
During Carnival season, many bars clear out chairs to make space for dancing. And tourists are often surprised that patrons will be brought one glass of beer after another without even ordering — until they place a coaster on top of their glass to signal they no longer want any. With so much beer flowing, it's impossible not to get into the party spirit!
Image: picture-alliance/dpa Themendienst/H. Kaiser
Choosing your parade
If you think there's just one Carnival parade in Cologne, the one on Rose Monday, you're mistaken. From the start, there are various parades in Cologne. Colorful, offbeat costumes, all homemade, are the trademark of the "Schull- und Veedelszöch" parade in which only schools and clubs take part. The groups judged the best are rewarded with a place in the Rose Monday parade the next day.
Image: picture-alliance/dpa/dpaweb/R. Vennenbernd
Stay until the end
The Nubbel is a straw figure that hangs from the facades of some pubs during Carnival. On the eve of Ash Wednesday it's taken down and "carried to the grave" in a torchlight procession. Burning the Nubbel signifies the end of Carnival. Anyone who has experienced this ritual understands that Carnival is more than just a party. It's a folk festival that magically links people together.