Why does a man still play a "maiden" in Cologne Carnival in Germany? And what did the Nazis have against men wearing makeup? A Carnival history explainer.
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Carnival has been celebrated in the German Rhineland city of Cologne for centuries. However, it used to be rough, disorderly, anarchic and so offensive to some people that, in the 19th century, a group of influential Cologne residents decided to band together and regulate the wild festivities.
In 1823, a group of several men from Cologne'seducated elite founded the "Festordnende Comite" (Festival Organizing Committee) and introduced a new figure to the revamped carnival: the "Carnival Hero." The hero was supposed to "guide the wretchedness of ordinary goings-on" with his noble character.
By the late 19th century, that hero became known as the "Carnival Prince." The prince was then accompanied by another figure: a farmer, or "peasant," representing the down-to-earth and sturdy nature of the city of Cologne, and the "Maiden of Cologne," symbolizing Cologne as a free city that is not subject to any foreign power.
Together, the three form the triumvirate, or "Dreigestirn" in German. These days, the "Festordnende Comite" is called simply the Festkomitee and consists of around 120 Cologne Carnival societies that dedicate themselves to the annual celebration.
Carnival has historically been an overwhelmingly male affair, with men dressed up as market women or cleaning ladies while taking the stage to make raunchy speeches. Even the "Maiden of Cologne" was a man dressed as a woman — which is still the case today.
The lead dancer, known as "Dancing Marie," was also a man playing the role of a female dancer of the guards. This character represented the sutler women who accompanied and "entertained" soldiers during the Thirty Years' War (1618-1648). Historically, the men, dressed as sutler women, danced with fellow men dressed as officers in the annual drunken carnival revelry.
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Nazis didn't like men with makeup
The National Socialists, who were in power in Germany from 1933 to 1945, didn't like this at all. To them, men wearing bright makeup and women's clothing was far too redolent of homosexuality — and homosexual behavior was persecuted and punished by the Nazis. As a result, the carnival societies were instructed to now have women, and not men, as the lead dancers.
Carnival societies bowed to pressure from the Nazi regime — after all, many of their elite members wanted to be seen favorably by the Party. And so, starting in 1936, only male and female dance couples were allowed to perform, although there was a widespread belief that women were not up to the job. Among other things, many men believed the jokes at the events were far too crude and offensive for women to handle.
Unsurprisingly, the men were wrong. The ladies had plenty of charisma, danced like crazy and suffered no psychological damage. Having women as the lead dancers continued even after the end of the Nazi period — since then, the first dancer position has been given only to women.
A male affair
Around 200 years ago, the newly organizedCologne Carnival was a purely male affair. As a result, all carnival characters were played by men.
The figure of the "maiden" in the Cologne triumvirate was thus historically given to a man. But here, too, the Nazis prevailed against tradition: In 1938 and 1939, Paula Zapf and Else Horion became the first and only women in the history of the Cologne triumvirate to play this role.
In 1940, when carnival was banned during the Second World War, there was only an unofficial triumvirate, which also had a female "maiden." The trio only performed once in secret for a few carnivalists in the bowling alley of a pub.
The Rose Monday parade with a triumvirate didn't take place again until 1949. The role of the "maiden" was once again played by a man, as it was in the old days — in part because people didn't want to have anything to do with the Nazis' rules.
But it's unlikely a man will play the "maiden" for all time. The festival committee's statutes state that the triumvirate must come from one of its carnival societies, and some societies are women-only. So it is only a matter of time before a Cologne triumvirate includes women.
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Image: Chai von der Laage/IMAGO
Kölle Alaaf!
Kölle Alaaf!: the typical Cologne Carnival greeting can be translated as "Cologne above all!" This cry can be heard throughout the weeklong street festival, which begins in earnest on Thursday and ends on Ash Wednesday. Some 1 million visitors flock to the city on the Rhine to join the celebrations, which tend to take place all day and night, turning the city into a party zone.
Image: Oliver Berg/dpa/picture alliance
Helau Mainz!
Helau, thought to be an old shepherd's call, is used as a carnival greeting today in the city of Mainz. The "Schwellköpp" — oversized papier-mache figures translated as "swollen heads" — have been an important part of the city's carnival for nearly 100 years. They take to the streets during the Rose Monday parades and represent typical Mainz characters. Each weighs about 25 kilograms (55 pounds).
Image: Fredrik von Erichsen/dpa/picture alliance
Helau Düsseldorf!
After Cologne and Mainz, Düsseldorf is the third major Carnival stronghold. There, the battle cry is also "Helau." Carnival begins with the annual symbolic awaking of a character known as "Hoppediz," who on November 11, emerges from a mustard pot. It all ends on Ash Wednesday when a doll representing Hoppediz is set on fire and then buried while onlookers wail in mourning.
Image: Federico Gambarini/dpa/picture alliance
Hu hu hu Rottweil!
Carnival in Baden-Württemberg, known as Fasnet or Fasnacht in the local dialect, is also important. In Rottweil, it's celebrated according to Swabian-Alemannic traditions. Revelers, called larvae, wear hand-carved wooden masks, walk through the town and call out "Hu hu hu." On the Monday and Shrove Tuesday, there is the "Narrensprung" or "Fool's Jump" street procession.
Image: Patrick Seeger/dpa/picture alliance
Ho Narro Konstanz! Hail fools of Constance!
Like Rottweil, the town of Constance on the shores of Lake Constance is small but spirited when it comes to celebrating the Swabian-Alemannic Fasnet carnival. Parades are dominated by the "Blätzlebuebe," the name given to the guild members who dress in "Häs" costumes made of thousands of scraps of material and felt. Their costumes are meant to represent colorful roosters.
Image: Tobias Kleinschmidt/dpa/picture alliance
Fölsch Foll — Hinein! Throw yourself into it in Fulda!
The German state of Hesse also loves to celebrate Carnival. Some 4,000 participants and floats venture 4 kiolmeters (2.4 miles) through Fulda's inner city, making it the biggest Carnival parade in the state. Yet it's small compared to Cologne, since three times as many participants walk twice as far in the Cologne Rose Monday Carnival procession.
Image: Hajo Drabe/dpaweb/picture-alliance
Cottbus Helau!
In eastern Germany, Carnival does not have a longstanding tradition. Nevertheless, it's marked with celebrations and parades. In Cottbus, eastern Germany's largest and most cheerful Carnival procession rolls through the city center. The "procession of happy people" parades through the town, with 4,000 participants, 100 vehicles and even horses involved.
Image: Andreas Franke/zb/picture alliance
Bremen Ahoy!
Bremen-ites enjoy heating things up with samba rhythms and exotic costumes, creating a Carnival inspired by Rio de Janeiro in Brazil. Some 35,000 people come to the Hanseatic city to enjoy the biggest annual samba carnival in Europe. People on stilts, dancers and live music bands participate in the city procession. However, in 2023, it will take place in April.
Image: Carmen Jaspersen/dpa/picture alliance
Narri Narro München! The fools rule Munich!
In Munich, carnival is known as "Fasching," and is celebrated with balls held all over the city. The "München Narrisch" is a three-day festival held outdoors on and around Marienplatz. Don't miss the dance of the market women at the Viktualienmarkt. The women wear extravagant, homemade costumes that relate to what's being sold at their stalls, whether dairy products or flowers.
Image: Frank Leonhardt/dpa/picture alliance
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Kept away from the parade
Yet sexismis stubborn. Even after the Second World War, Cologne's carnival largely remained a male domain. Until the 1970s, women had virtually no place in the Rose Monday parade, one of the biggest carnival events in Germany.
The arguments for why women could not be allowed were absurd. Some said the procession would be too long if women took part, and that women were not as big drinkers as men. And finally, it was said that only costumes in men's sizes were available in the festival committee's wardrobe.
This meant that only the "dancing Marie" and the female musicians of the carnival bands were allowed to take part in the Rose Monday procession. However, exceptions were made for celebrities. In 1950, for example, the famous German actor Magda Schneider, mother of Romy Schneider, donned a costume.
It wasn't until 1978 that women's groups were allowed to join the procession. Despite an outcry from many traditionalists, the parade's organizers ensured that the number of women taking part grew rapidly. And indeed it did. While 400 women participated in 1978, 1,700 women took part just four years later.
Even today, music at Cologne's carnival is dominated by male artists, with few women in the 10 most popular bands. Female carnival singers from Cologne who have been in the business for decades say they are often overlooked.
However, more and more self-confident young female musicians are coming onto the scene. They receive support above all from alternative carnival associations, which are working to bring the traditional Cologne Carnival into the present — to ensure it's not just a male-dominated celebration.
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Image: picture-alliance/R. Goldmann
What on earth is a Jeck?
It's what anyone celebrating Carnival in Cologne is called. Don't shy away from revelers you don't know. Just follow their lead. If they link arms with you, just sway along with them to the music. If they grab hold of your shoulders, it's to form a "polonaise" conga line. That's a good thing! Even better: Sing along even if you don't know the words. After all, you've got six days to learn them.
Don't be alarmed — kissing is a popular custom throughout the festivities, especially on Weiberfastnacht, the day when women take charge. It marks the start of the street Carnival. What is known here as a "Bützchen" can be a peck on the cheek or a kiss, and is an expression of Carnival high spirits, not to be confused with less respectable motives. Only spoilsports refuse a friendly kiss.
Image: picture-alliance/dpa/O. Berg
At the very least, wear a hat
Dress up in a boring sailor costume? Cologne natives won't stand for that. Real Jecks can be recognized by their imaginative homemade costumes. At Carnival, there's no such thing as being overdressed. By consensus, a hat is the absolute minimum you are expected to wear. When decorating it, let your imagination run free — the weirder the better.
Image: picture-alliance/dpa/O. Berg
Clever costumes
Anything goes! A Carnival costume is ideal when it's fit for partying outdoors, since the title "street Carnival" should be taken literally. But it should also adapt to indoor revelries in bars or taverns. With all that beer drinking going on, the perfect costume should also serve another important practical purpose: it should cause you no trouble if you need to use the toilet.
Image: picture-alliance/dpa/R. Vennenbernd
A feast for the ears
Drumming is a sound heard frequently during Cologne's Carnival. Wherever music groups and marching bands can be found, high spirits are guaranteed. People dance spontaneously, sing and sway until the wee hours. The feel-good musicians don't just come from Cologne and the surrounding areas, but from all over Europe to join the fun. So get going and follow them!
Image: picture-alliance/Fotostand/Metzemacher
Get your tickets early
Weiberfastnacht: At exactly 11 minutes past 11 on Thursday, Carnival officially opens with a huge stage show on the Alter Markt in Cologne's old town. The city's best Carnival bands perform here. It's so popular that the square is already bursting at the seams at 9 a.m. You can only get in with a ticket, so it's not for spontaneous visitors. But people are partying elsewhere as well.
Image: picture-alliance/dpa/R. Vennenbernd
Party in moderation
Even on ordinary days, the Zülpicher Strasse near the university is popular for its bars and restaurants. During and after Weiberfastnacht, it's a hot spot of alcoholic excess — unfortunately. In the eyes of locals, binge drinking has nothing to do with Carnival. They steer clear of this street. It's more relaxing to celebrate on Severinstrasse, for instance.
Image: picture-alliance/R. Goldmann
Get jolly gracefully
If you want to party like a local, head to a pub or Brauhaus. It's worth avoiding the overcrowded area around Cologne Cathedral. Partying happens in every district, without exception. Standing in line is part of the experience and usually enjoyable, because you strike up conversations and maybe practice a song or two in Kölsch, the name of both Cologne's dialect as well as its beer.
Image: picture-alliance/dpa/H. Kaiser
Kölsch etiquette
During Carnival season, many bars clear out chairs to make space for dancing. And tourists are often surprised that patrons will be brought one glass of beer after another without even ordering — until they place a coaster on top of their glass to signal they no longer want any. With so much beer flowing, it's impossible not to get into the party spirit!
Image: picture-alliance/dpa Themendienst/H. Kaiser
Choosing your parade
If you think there's just one Carnival parade in Cologne, the one on Rose Monday, you're mistaken. From the start, there are various parades in Cologne. Colorful, offbeat costumes, all homemade, are the trademark of the "Schull- und Veedelszöch" parade in which only schools and clubs take part. The groups judged the best are rewarded with a place in the Rose Monday parade the next day.
Image: picture-alliance/dpa/dpaweb/R. Vennenbernd
Stay until the end
The Nubbel is a straw figure that hangs from the facades of some pubs during Carnival. On the eve of Ash Wednesday it's taken down and "carried to the grave" in a torchlight procession. Burning the Nubbel signifies the end of Carnival. Anyone who has experienced this ritual understands that Carnival is more than just a party. It's a folk festival that magically links people together.
Image: picture-alliance/dpa/F. Gambarini
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This article was translated from German.
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