Headscarves, Pussyhats and yarmulkes: Stories on our heads
Stefan Dege
December 20, 2019
A hat is a hat is a hat? From military helmets to fashionable fascinators to headscarfs, what people choose to wear on their heads reveals diverse histories and stories. A German museum takes a closer look.
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"Hats off": The cultural — and sometimes political — symbolism of headdress
From helmets to top hats, headscarfs to baseball caps, headwear has a long tradition. Today hats might go in and out of fashion, but as headscarves are banned a new exhibition shows the symbolic power of headgear.
Image: Haus der Geschichte Baden-Württemberg/V. Schrank
Attention seeker
A hat as a landing site for a bird of paradise. This extraordinary headdress was worn by wealthy women in the early 19th century, one assumes to draw attention to themselves. Might the preserved exotic bird transfer its beauty to the wearer?
Image: Haus der Geschichte Baden Württemberg
Military headgear
Even under a fabric camouflage, the characteristic shape of the German spiked helmet, or "Pickelhaube," remains unmistakable. It remained a purely military accessory before it was adapted by police and even firefighters. Most often associated with Prussian soldiers whose uniform the helmet belonged to from the middle of the 19th century, the spiked helmet was famously worn by Otto von Bismarck.
Image: Haus der Geschichte Baden Württemberg/B. Eidenmüller
Pussyhat: Protesting Donald Trump
This pink handmade hat with cat-like ears, dubbed the pussyhat, was created to be worn by hundreds of thousands of women taking part in the "Women's March" that happened across the US and the world in March 2017 to protest against the misogyny of the newly elected US President, Donald Trump. The hat has since became a feminist trademark in the #MeToo age.
Image: Haus der Geschichte Baden-Württemberg/D. Matthiessen
Chemical warfare headdress
Respirators are also a special type of headgear. Soldiers wore them in the First and Second World Wars to survive poison gas attacks, a new insidious form of warfare that has thankfully since been banned. But these days masks, if not quite respirators, are commonly used by people living in highly polluted cities.
Image: picture-alliance/dpa/T. Weller
Headscarf ban
To oppose the ban on teaching students while wearing a headscarf, Fereshta Ludin went to the Federal Constitutional Court in Karlsruhe in 2003 but lost her case. The dispute over the headscarf ban divided Germany. The "Hat's off" exhibition at the Stuttgart House of History in Baden-Württemberg is advocating for more tolerance, no matter what one chooses to wear on their head.
Image: picture-alliance/dpa
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As the Muslim headscarf ban in France has shown, head coverings have long provoked controversy — and have also marked out religious minorities for attack. While a Jewish man wearing a traditional yarmulke head covering might be scared of walking down the street, Muslim teachers who choose to wear a headscarf in Austria are now banned from working in schools, or in the German state of Bavaria cannot work as a judge.
But as revealed a new exhibition in Stuttgart, Hats off! Spiked Helmet, Pussyhat and Stories on our Head, controversies about the waypeople choose to cover their heads is nothing new.
"Head coverings reveal history and tell stories," said Paula Lutum Lenger, the director of the Stuttgart' House of History Baden-Württemberg. "Our exhibition is about power, order and insurgency, tradition, revolution and religion."
The initial part of the show features the controversy over head scarves. "The head scarf is a multifaceted symbol," says curator Sebastian Dörfler. "Some Muslim women see it as a symbol of repression and consciously reject it. Others who wear it see it as a part of their religion and their persona."
Dörfler and his co-curator Immo Wagner-Douglas have included, among other items, a headscarf owned by the teacher Fereshta Ludin. She fought to be allowed to wear such religious symbols while teaching, but lost her case before the German Constitutional Court in 2003.
The headscarves worn by traditional Christians also feature in the exhibition that includes four display cases illuminated like store windows to illustrate various types of headwear. Each of the huge variety of hats, caps and helmets has quite a different intention: The spiked cap exemplifies power; the 1920s cloche is chic; the top hat classy, and the pink Pussyhat has become a symbol of protest against misogyny in the era of Donald Trump — who was recorded saying that women would let him "grab them by the pussy." For men, wearing a hat in public was a must until the late 1960s.
Headscarf ban in Germany? (14.08.2018)
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'Clothing is language'
The exhibition showcases examples of headgear from an era when an outfit simply wasn't complete without a hat. There are hats once worn by poet Friedrich Schiller; the inventor of the hot air balloon Ferdinand Graf von Zeppelin; and Theodor Heuss, Germany first postwar democratic president.
Then there is the tragic story behind the caps a fraternity kept for a long time — their owners were young men who died in WWI. Two military helmets on display have bullets stuck in them.
The exhibition also shines a light on headgear that has been under debate in some parts of the world. "Clothing is language," says curator Schaller, warning that people should not judge others just because of their headwear.
Hats off! Spiked Helmet, Pussyhat and Stories on our Head runs until August 2, 2020 at the House of History, Baden-Württemberg in Stuttgart.
Popular German idioms involving hats
Pack your bag and grab your hat! While headwear, caps and hats are no longer a standard part of people's everyday wardrobe, idioms involving hats abound in Germany to this very day.
Image: picture-alliance/chromorange/Märzing
Auf der Hut
"Hut," the German word for hat, in this idiom derives from the verb hüten (take care of, watch over, herd animals). If someone warns you to be "auf der Hut," you are being told to be watchful, wary and alert. Protection is key in this image — and it's ingrained in the genes of this this highly vigilant, and furry, meerkat.
Image: Reuters/R. Naden
Gut behütet
If a German says a child grew up "gut behütet," it doesn't mean the girl or boy spent their childhood wearing particularly good hats but that they were sheltered and protected. The parents will likely have been "auf der Hut," just like the meerkat in the previous picture.
Image: picture-alliance/chromorange/Märzing
Hut ab!
Not too long ago, in an era when most men would not have left the house without wearing a hat or cap, they would take them off as a sign of respect in church, in the presence of a lady or their bosses. The German expression "Hut ab" is used to show admiration and respect for another person's actions and has its equivalent in English: hats off!
Image: picture-alliance/imagebroker/Janus
Hut nehmen
The phrase "Hut nehmen" means to resign, to step down, pack one's bags, grab one's hat — and leave. People may no longer wear hats as a matter of course, but the idiom is still very much in use, in particular after a person has been fired.
This German saying literally translated as "that goes way beyond my hatband" means to go too far. Its origins are not entirely clear. One version has it that the idiom refers to the alleged medieval practice of ensuring that the stream of water spouting from a village well was no thicker than a hatband. Anything else would have been aggravating and going too far.
Image: Getty Images/S.D´Alessandro
So klein mit Hut
After a dressing down, you might feel useless and at fault, and maybe two feet tall, or as the Germans say, "so small with a hat on." The phrase is usually accompanied by using thumb and index finger to indicate exactly how insignificant one feels.
Image: picture-alliance/blickwinkel/fotototo
Unter einen Hut bringen
A hat is symbolic of power and social status. Nowadays, people who can literally "bring it all together under a hat" are good at mediating and finding a consensus among, for instance, different people and opinions. In Germany, it is common to say that women who juggle a job, children and a household "bring it all under one hat."
Image: picture-alliance/Newscom/R. Ben-Ari
An den Hut stecken
"Das kannst du dir an den Hut stecken!" directly translates as, "You can pin that onto your hat." The expression is used when someone can't be bothered or doesn't care about something, like in "stuff it." It refers to the fact that people used to decorate hats with bits and ends that weren't really valuable.