Heat challenges German wine industry riding global trends
Dagmar Breitenbach
August 6, 2018
Thanks to the heat wave scorching Europe, German winemakers have started the earliest-ever wine harvest. Wine expert Romana Echensperger tells DW how the German wine industry can adapt and shares global wine trends.
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DW: What does the ongoing heat wave in Germany mean for the wine harvest? Will 2018 be a great year for wine?
Romana Echensperger: That's always a tricky situation. You can only start talking about a great year once the grape harvest has been stored in the cellars. If we now had thunderstorms and strong rain, then you can forget about a good wine year.
Heat and strong sun challenge the vineyards. These cause drought stress, for example, which in turn can limit physiological maturity. Then the grapes will have a lot of sugar but harsh tannins and not a lot of taste.
An early harvest is also not ideal, since high temperatures will cause the crushed grapes to immediately begin fermenting at a very fast rate. This hinders the development of delicate aromas, so you have to put a lot of energy into the cooling process.
These are just two examples. In short, winemakers must adjust their winemaking and their storage technology for heat and dryness in order to make the year's harvest work.
DW: You've been in the wine business for many years, have worked as chief sommelier at top restaurants and, as one of a handful of women in Germany, carry the revered title Master of Wine. Why does a fine wine go so well with a good meal?
Romana Echensperger: Wine has a long tradition: It fits perfectly with food, enhances it, makes it more easily digestible — and then, there's the social aspect. Wine is a social lubricant that brings people together, just like food.
How about German wine — does it hold its own?
Absolutely! Germany is [usually] a cool climate wine growing country. We have wines with a lot of structure, but without any weight: no super fat Chardonnays but smart, crisp, fresh Riesling-style or Pinot-Blanc-style wines that go perfectly with contemporary-style meals with less meat and lots of vegetables and herbs.
The style of wine we produce in this cool climate is just perfect for modern cuisine.
It's grape harvest season! In German vineyards, grapes are picked and pressed while more than 1,000 wine festivals take place in the country's wine-growing regions.
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The Wurstmarkt, the world's largest wine festival
The Dürkheim Wurstmarkt – literally sausage market – is the world's largest wine festival. Here, wine growers certainly don't skimp on size: Instead of dainty-stemmed wine glasses with just a few inches of red or white, Oktoberfest-inspired servings rule. One of the around 700,000 visitors every year in September, the German Chancellor seems to be having a good time.
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Crowned wine ambassadors
Every year, the various wine-growing regions in Germany elect young women as their new Wine Queens. Until 1999, the queen-to-be had to be unmarried, a rule that has since been nixed. On average, today's wine queens are 25 years old, and candidates must prove they have a "clear and strong association with German wines."
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Europe's steepest vineyard
The Calmont slope on Germany's Moselle River, right by the small town of Bremm, is 300 meters high and, with a gradient of up to 60 percent, it's not for the faint-hearted, or people who suffer from vertigo. Actually, the Calmont is Europe's steepest vineyard.
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Fine wines
From 1945 to 2006, Baron Philippe de Rothschild commissioned a different artist every year to design labels for his wines. Collectors are keen on bottles with labels by the likes of Picasso, Kandinsky, Warhol and Chagall. In 2006, the above 1945 Mouton Rothschild was sold at an auction for $28,750 (€24,500).
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Sweet and rare - ice wine
Leaving grapes on the wine long after harvest until the first big freeze is a challenge and a risk for every wine grower. The frozen grapes are picked in cold winter nights and pressed immediately, making for a thicker, sweeter and more aromatic wine with a delicate acidity. Popular dessert wines, German ice wines are renowned worldwide.
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Too cold up north
The 52nd parallel is regarded as German winegrowers' "Arctic Circle." The German town of Werder is situated in what is officially the world's northernmost wine-growing region. That hasn't kept a wine grower in Finland from taking a gamble: Warm water from a nuclear power plant's coolant system runs through pipes underneath his small local vineyard, keeping the ground frost-free.
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White or red?
White wine of course – or is it a red wine after all, despite appearances? If it is, it's called a "Blanc de Noir," white wine from a red grape. Remove the skin of the red grape, and you get light-colored juice and pulp. Modeled after French champagne that is often won from Pinot Noir grapes, this wine is low in acidity and quite agreeable.
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Germany's highest vineyards
Germany's southwest is the country's most sun-drenched region. The Baden region is perfect for growing both Riesling and Pinot Noir grapes. At 560 meters, the Hohentwieler Olgaberg may be Germany's highest wine growing region – but a vineyard in Argentine province of Salta easily tops that, with grapes harvested as high up as 3,111 meters of altitude.
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American roots
By around 1850, grape phylloxera, a pest that originated in North America, had arrived in Europe, spreading throughout wine-growing regions everywhere and destroying harvests for decades. The only solution was crossing the more delicate European grapes with American strains resistant to the blight. Et voilà! It was the salvation of European wines, to this very day.
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What are the future trends for German wine growers?
Sparkling wine is the next big thing. It's not their core business, but today more and more wine growers have begun to focus on sparkling wine production only, working on the subtleties of wine production for sparkling wines. In the future, I think we'll be seeing more high-end sparkling wines from Germany.
The art of wine
Has the German taste for bone dry or richly sweet wine changed over the years?
Actually, there's constant change; wine styles are always part of a trend. After years of hardship during World War II, Germans were looking for sweetness in wines. So through to the 1970s, people were keen on sweet wines. After the glycol wine scandal in the mid-1980s [wines had been adulterated withdiethylene glycol to make them appear sweeter — Editor's note], things changed and it was suddenly in vogue to drink brutally bone dry wines.
Today, it's OK for wines to have a few grams of residual sugar for more crowd-pleasing styles. At the start of the century, quality was seen as equal to concentration, so we were seeing super fat Chardonnays with a lot of oak — and now the trend is lighter wines, fresher and with less alcohol but more acidity.
Speaking about trends. Is vegan wine just that — a trend that will die out?
I think the vegan issue has been exaggerated to a certain degree. At the peak of the vegan movement, a lot of growers reacted by slapping the term on their labels. Most wines are vegan anyway.
Every market is different
What are typical wine preferences in other countries?
In the US, you have sweeter wines on the lower end and the best wines in the world at the higher end. If you go to the West Coast or the East Coast, you have a plethora of outstanding restaurants, and very good wines.
In Norway, people like wines that have a high acid content. The Japanese — a very traditional market — don't like screw caps but love corks in their bottles. It's the opposite in the UK.
What's the most exciting wine country at the moment?
I think it's Germany, because so much is going on here. And New Zealand, they have great wines.
Bringing people together
"Wine is and always will be a personal sensual experience," you write in your new book on women and wine. How is the wine experience different for women?
Women have a more pragmatic approach to wine. Men are keen on a wine's image; women go to the supermarket, see the "Hello Kitty" rosé they like, buy it — and don't care what other people think. Women have a keener sense of taste and smell, they can differentiate more aromatics. They like to buy wines for a special occasion, they like to share wine. They are not collectors.
More women drink wine than men, so actually they are more important for the market, even if they don't drink wine as often. The cliche that women love light, sweet wines has to do with the fact that they drink wine less often — and like every human being, they then prefer the sweeter wines. Women who drink wine regularly end up liking the same wines men do.
After all these years in the wine business, what is the one really important thing you've learned about wine?
Wine is like art and music — you don't need it to survive but it's a genuine expression of human culture. It brings people together. That's really a good thing, the most important thing for me.
Europe's famous wine regions
With its varied landscapes and climate zones, Europe has a lot to offer wine lovers. Join us on a pictorial journey of pleasure from the Mosel to Bordeaux and from Tuscany to Tokaj.
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Mosel romanticism
Some 2,000 years ago, ancient Romans began cultivating vines on the steep slopes along the River Mosel - making this Germany's oldest wine region. Over 100 wine-producing villages, like Cochem (pictured here), make this an enticing region to visit. Premium vintages from this region, predominantly Riesling, Müller-Thurgau and Silvaner varieties, score very high prices at auctions.
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Riesling from the Palatinate region
The 18-meter high Wine Gate marks the beginning of the German Wine Route, an itinerary established 80 years ago that leads through the Palatinate region. Here you'll find the biggest Riesling region in the world. The "King of German wines" enjoys a good reputation the world over. For instance, when the Suez Canal was officially opened in 1869, it was toasted with glasses of Palatinate Riesling.
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Bordeaux: City, region and wine
The famous wine region bears the same name as the western French city of Bordeaux. The Atlantic climate and soil enriched with calcium due to lime stone provide fantastic conditions to cultivate the grapes of the renowned dry red wine. Here a sculpture of France's emblem, a cockerel, proudly watches over the vineyards of Château La France.
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Record bids on Burgundy wine
France's Burgundy region is known for some outstanding wines - both red and white. It also hosts an annual charity wine auction every November, when the world of wine congregates in the Hospices de Beaune. Premier and Grand Cru wines from the region have repeatedly set record prices, with a barrel of "Corton-Bressandes Grand Cru" being sold for 220,000 euro ($242,653) in 2014.
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Tuscany, home to Chianti & co
Italy is the biggest wine producer in the world, and Tuscany is at the heart of its production. The hilly landscape with its mild climate provides ideal conditions for great wines: Chianti Classico, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano and Brunello di Montalcino. These are all made with the Sangiovese grape, which can only be found in Italy.
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Portugal's famous wine region: Douro Valley
Small, sweet grapes grow on the slopes of the Douro Valley and produce the concentrated and long-lasting flavors of Port, a fortified dessert wine. Once made, it's taken in oak barrels to the port city of Porto, where it is stored for at least two years. The Douro river valley became the world's first protected wine region and was named a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2001.
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Rioja: Oak barrel wine from Spain
The Bodega Ysios winery is an interesting showcase for Spain's Rioja region. Designed by architect Santiago Calatrava, this long cedar building with a wavy roof of gigantic bars of aluminum is inspired by the shape giant wine barrels. Back in the 19th century, wine makers of the region began fermenting grapes in "barricas," oak barrels, which also gave the wine its distinctive flavor.
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Tokaj wine: Long fermentation for quality
The Hungarian town of Tokaj also gives its name to the noble wine that is produced here from white wine grapes. Regional wine production rules specify that it has to ferment in a barrel for 10 years and then for another five years in a bottle. Typical for the region is the labyrinthine subterranean tunnel system, providing the best environment for Tokaj wines to develop their flavors.
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Greece, the cradle of European viticulture
It's no wonder that Dionysus, the god of winemaking and wine, was Greek. As far back as the 16th century BC, ancient Greeks were already making wine. It was stored in amphorae which were sealed with Aleppo pine resin, known locally as Retsina. This added a special flavor to the wine. Today, small pieces of pine resin are still used in wine fermentation in order to produce the typical Retsina wine.
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Romana Echensperger is a German Master of Wine. The longtime head wine steward at exceptional star-rated restaurants teaches at the International Wine Institute in Bad Neuenahr. She also works as a wine journalist and is the author of the 2017 German-language wine book for women: "Von wegen leicht und lieblich. Das Ultimative Weinbuch nur für Frauen" ("Forget light and sweet — the ultimate wine book just for women").