Africa's tourism industry has been hard hit by coronavirus lockdowns. Overnight, hotel bookings were canceled, safaris postponed and cultural tours abandoned. DW meets operators struggling to stay afloat.
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At the beginning of 2020, Africa's tourism sector looked set for a lucrative year. The continent had the world's second fastest growing tourism industry and was projected to rake in billions of dollars. But when COVID-19 struck, tourists stopped coming and the industry ground to a sudden halt.
Tourism across the continent has always relied on international travelers. But now, a dangerous combination of national lockdowns, a tiny local tourism customer base, and an industry aimed at high-paying foreign visitors means Africa's tourism industry may not adapt quickly enough to avoid collapse.
Tours along Ghana's forts and castles have ceased, the safari vehicles that normally prowl East Africa's Serengeti in the hunt for the perfect wildlife photograph are standing still, and luxury camps in Botswana's Okavango Delta are gathering dust.
Small businesses suddenly without an income
In 2019, Ghana raked in $1.9 billion (€1.75 billion) from tourism, which contributed over 5.5% of GDP in the West African nation.
Ghana's crumbling castles are a grim reminder of its slave trade past
This year, Ghana is marking the 400th anniversary of the start of the slave trade. The remains of forts and castles where slaves were held are haunting monuments of the tribulations of captured Africans centuries ago.
Image: DW/D. Agborli
Monuments of shame
Cape Coast Castle – now a World Heritage Site – is one of about forty forts in Ghana where slaves from as far away as Burkina Faso and Niger were imprisoned. This former slave fortress could hold about 1,500 slaves at a time before they were loaded onto ships and sold into slavery in the New World in the Americas and the Caribbean.
Image: DW/D. Agborli
Dreadful dungeons
At Cape Coast Castle, slaves were shackled and crammed in the dank dungeons. There was no space to lie down and no sanitation, with human waste littering the floor. Slaves could spend up to three months confined in these miserable conditions before being loaded onto ships.
Image: DW/D. Agborli
Condemned cells
Male captives who revolted or were deemed insubordinate ended up in the condemned cells – a pitch-black room where slaves were left to die in the oppressive heat without water, food or daylight. Rebellious women were beaten and chained to cannon balls in the courtyard.
Image: DW/D. Agborli
Military might
These now silent cannons are a reminder of the military might of the British who used Cape Coast Castle to hold slaves for 140 years. It's estimated that between the late 17th and early 19th centuries, some three million West African slaves were shipped from here.
Image: DW/D. Agborli
Slave castle
Fort Christiansborg, also known as Osu Castle, sits in the lively township of Osu in Ghana’s capital, Accra. It was built by the Danish, who originally traded in gold, then in slaves. The slave trade was so successful that they had to expand the castle to almost four times its original dimensions.
Image: DW/D. Agborli
Door of no return
On the seaboard side of the coastal slave castles was 'the door of no return', a portal through which the captives were lowered into boats and taken to the slaving ships anchored further out at sea. Four in 10 did not survive the tortuous voyage. Those who made it across the Atlantic alive would never set foot in their homeland again.
Image: DW/D. Agborli
Danish shame
Erected in 1784, the crumbling ruins of Fort Prinzenstein in Keta, east of the Volta River, are a reminder of Denmark's role in the transatlantic slave trade. As the first slave-trading country to abolish the practice in 1792, Denmark's barbaric involvement in shipping an estimated 120,000 slaves to the former West Indies is often glossed over.
Image: DW/D. Agborli
History of shackles
It is easy to walk past this nondescript building in Ghana's capital Accra for anyone not aware of its historical significance. Built by the British as a trading post in 1673, Fort James was also used to hold slaves. It has a true history of chains – it was also used as a prison until 2008.
Image: DW/D. Agborli
Dark history
Built in 1482, Elmina Castle on Ghana's Cape coast is the earliest European structure erected in sub-Saharan Africa. Originally Portugese, it was later captured by the Dutch, who used it as a base for the Dutch slave trade with Brazil and the Caribbean. Under the flag of the Dutch West Indies Company, around 30,000 slaves a year passed through Elmina until 1814 when the Dutch abolished slavery.
Image: DW/D. Agborli
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Ghanaian tour operator Moses Femi Gbeku has been stuck in neutral for weeks due to the coronavirus pandemic.
"I had my last tour just before COVID-19 actually became a pandemic, and after that I had about six tours canceled. For these tours, people came from the US, Canada and European countries," said Gbeku, who runs the Accra-based Mofeg Travel and Tours.
The company normally operates seven tours a year in several West African countries – the cancellation of six tours means his agency is out of business for the rest of the year and at least 20 tour guides and other staff are jobless.
"Directly, you have affected twenty people, indirectly you can multiply that. You are going into 200 if they are feeding at least ten people at a time," Gbeku told DW.
It's a similar story at N8tive Restaurant and Bar located not far from Ghana's Kotoka International Airport in Accra. The vast majority of the bar's clientele is usually foreigners made up of a mix of tourists, business visitors or foreigners working in Ghana.
Now these customers are mostly gone. Bar owner Kwame Bekoe says revenue has been hard-hit.
"The number of travelers started to reduce, especially those coming into Ghana but also because those working around [the area] have begun to work from home," Bekoe said.
To remain afloat, Bekoe is now focusing on gaining local customers. Home and office deliveries are top priority, he told DW.
Surprisingly, Bekoe has not sacked any of his workers yet. One of his employees, Samuel Kwaku Yeboah, is grateful for the job.
"It has rekindled our love towards the company. When you see your friends are losing their jobs and you still can keep yours, it is a blessing, so you need to make it work," Yeboah told DW.
Conservation in peril
Conservation efforts across Africa are also suffering. On the shores of Lake Victoria, the Uganda Wildlife Conservation Education Center traditionally draws visitors eager to see its lions, giraffes, white rhinos and chimpanzees. The facility holds more than 291 individual animals from 52 species, all of which need feeding and veterinary care.
But Uganda's lockdown measures have forced the center to close to visitors. The consequences are serious: the center's revenue from tourists has dwindled to a shortfall of about $50,000. The wildlife center could close for good if funding isn't found quickly.
"The foreign guests would come for research, they could come for specialized programs, long stay volunteering, internships... They are no longer coming. The tourists were paying 10 dollars and in some cases 70 dollars," Executive Director James Musinguzi said.
Musinguzi also worries visitors will stay away from the center even after the lockdown is lifted because of fears that the center's animals could carry viruses similar to the novel coronavirus, which scientists believe originated with wild animals.
"Remember, they have developed some phobias towards wild animals. There is going to be a phobia and distancing from wild animals by people," he said.
Prolonged low season
Across Lake Victoria, Tanzania is famous for its safari industry – from lions lounging in the Serengeti to elephants ambling through the Ngorongoro Crater and flamingos on Lake Manyara.
Except now, there are no safari vehicles brimming with Western tourists to see them. For safari operator Elia Richard from Into Africa, the coronavirus has hit hard – 99% of his clients are international.
On Safari in Africa's National Parks
Savannas, rainforests, deserts: nature and animal lovers are spoiled for choice in Africa. There are more than 300 national parks. We've chosen some of the most fascinating – from A as in antelope to Z as in zebra.
Image: picture-alliance/dpa/F. von Poser
Serengeti National Park, Tanzania
At nearly 15,000 square kilometers, this is one of the world's largest and most famous national parks. What's special here: nowhere else do so many animals migrate at the same time. When the rainy season starts in March and April, millions of wildebeest, zebras and gazelles make their way northwards to new feeding grounds.
Image: picture-alliance/dpa/K. Wothe
Amboseli National Park, Kenya
Kenya boasts 23 national parks. Amboseli National Park is the most popular. It lies at the foot of Africa's highest mountain, Mount Kilimanjaro. It's famed for its elephant herds, which live peacefully here, protected from poachers, because the surrounding countryside belongs to the Massai, who tolerate no poaching on their territory.
Image: picture-alliance/dpa/R. Schnoz
Queen Elizabeth National Park, Uganda
Safari tourists staying in chalets at this lodge have the best view, because the spectacular expanse of the countryside truly comes into its own when seen from up here. It's as if it had been made for experiencing nature and wildlife. Savannas alternate with tropical rainforests, marshes and crater landscapes. This variety of ecosystems gives the park the greatest biodiversity in East Africa.
Image: picture-alliance/dpa/R. Haasmann
Volcanoes National Park, Rwanda
Twelve gorilla groups live in the rainforests of the Virunga Mountains. The primatologist Dian Fossey made them world famous. She lived with them and showed the world the amazingly gentle side of these threatening-looking animals. Since then, many tourists dream of standing face to face with a mountain gorilla. Trekking excursions with park rangers make that possible.
Image: picture-alliance/dpa/B. Curtis
Kruger National Park, South Africa
Tourists to Africa dream of seeing the “big five” among the continent's wild animals: lions, elephant, rhinos, African buffalo and leopards. On a safari through Kruger National Park they have an especially good chance of seeing lions. More than 1,500 of these large carnivores live here. For the adventurous, walking routes offer the opportunity to explore the park's more remote regions on foot.
Image: picture-alliance/dpa/S. Wolf-Feix
Victoria Falls National Park, Zimbabwe
It has been a UNESCO World Heritage site since 1989. Victoria Falls, on Zimbabwe's border to Zambia, is the largest waterfall in the world. The waters of the Zambezi thunder down over a width of more than 1,700 meters. If you dare, you can plunge into the depths yourself. On a bridge 111 meters over the river, there's a bungee jumping station.
Image: picture-alliance/dpa/Bildagentur Schickert
Sanganeb Marine National Park, Sudan
Divers from all over the world love the atolls and reefs off the Sudanese coast. Here in the Red Sea, a huge coral reef drops off steeply to the seabed. Reef sharks, barracuda, dolphins and colorful reef fish splash about in the crystal clear waters. Diving safaris offer an unobstructed view of this marine life: an ecosystem that has been on the UNESCO World Heritage list since 2016.
Image: picture-alliance/dpa/M. Bail
Tassili n’Ajjer National Park, Algeria
Bizarre rock formations: the Tassili n’Ajjer plateau stretches out deep in the Sahara, far from civilization. Since the 1950s more than 10,000 prehistoric rock engravings have been discovered here. The area is home to the nomadic Tuareg people. Their hospitality is legendary. It is said that a guest who drinks three glasses of tea with them is under their protection from then on.
Image: picture-alliance/dpa/E. Strigl
Namib-Naukluft National Park, Namibia
Dead Vlei, a desiccated white claypan, lies in the oldest desert in the world, the Namib. Its camel thorn trees, dead for centuries, have been preserved by the extremely dry climate – an archaic landscape. The best view is from “Crazy Dune,” at the edge of the shallow depression. After the arduous 300-meter climb to its top, you can flop down in the sand, exhausted but awestruck.
Image: picture-alliance/dpa/N. Eisele-Hein
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"The difference with this pandemic in comparison to what we have seen before, like Ebola or terrorism in Kenya, it's highly dependent on international tourists. Our source markets have been affected," Richard said.
Operators like Richard are also caught between clients wanting their money back, and accommodation not wanting to give up deposits. This has caused serious cash flow problems.
"You come back to tell the client: 'Can we give you a credit for the future?' They tell you: 'we are not sure about the future anymore so I want my money back'," he said.
Into Africa attracts between 1,000 and 2,000 clients a year with some paying up to $7,000 per person for a safari. That's before tourists pump money into the local economies when they buy souvenirs, give tips or pay park fees.
Because Tanzania has not imposed a lockdown, and continues with a 'business as usual' approach, local tourism operators aren't eligible for government assistance.
How COVID-19 has destroyed Africa's tourism industry
For now, without tourists or income on the horizon, Into Africa must somehow survive.
"I don't see us recovering this year. We are talking more about 2021, and only if the economies in the source markets [US and Europe] don't go into a recession," Richard said.
Guides, meanwhile, have had an easier time adjusting, since Tanzania's tourism numbers naturally fluctuate dramatically between high and low seasons. Many have a second business or are involved in farming.
But the car mechanics, hotels or local aviation companies that rely on tourism companies like Into Africa for business are affected, said Richard.
Over-reliance on foreign tourists
For Kobby Mensah at the University of Ghana Business School, this pandemic highlights the real weakness of Africa's tourism industry.
"We are overly dependent on the West, and that in itself is a disaster, as COVID has actually shown. Now there is an increasing call for building tourism, not even just domestic tourism, but across African countries," Mensah said.
That many of the tourism companies are small businesses makes it even more difficult for them to survive a global crisis.
"A lot of big corporations have credit facilities that they can rely on. If we look at small and medium enterprises [operating in the tourism sector], the majority of them may be hand to mouth or one-man operations," Mensah said.
"When it comes to Africa, most governments pay little attention to small businesses," he added.