Are you comfortable in your clothes? Because the garments we wear can affect our mental state in positive and negative ways.
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Getting dressed in the morning: it's a task we do daily, some more consciously than others. We get dressed for work in the morning, choose casual clothes for lunch with a friend or maybe dress up for dinner in the evening. And with each outfit we — intentionally or unintentionally — communicate non-verbally to the outside world.
It's no question that what we wear is who we are because fashion is a way for us to express ourselves, our identity and even how we feel. The clothes we wear daily reflect the way we want others to perceive us and how we see ourselves. Clothes even influence our cognitive abilities.
In 2012, researchers from Northwestern University in the US found that wearing specific articles of clothing had an effect on the wearer's psychology and performance. The researchers concluded that clothes have a symbolic meaning. When we wear an article of clothing with a specific meaning, these clothes can influence our psychological state. It's called "enclothed cognition."
For example, a lab coat is associated with intelligence and scientific thinking. When a person wears a lab coat, these characteristics symbolized by the coat seem to have positive effects on their performance of specific tasks, according to the researchers. The study results show that what we wear, and the symbolic meaning we associate with specific fashion items, has measurable effects on our mental state.
"This experiment really shows how clothes can affect our attention, how we feel about ourselves and our competencies," says Camay Abraham, who has a Master degree in Applied Psychology in Fashion from the London College of Fashion.
These effects can be positive, but also negative. "It could mean a negative state of being if the item in question is known to be associated with a negative construct," says Abraham. So "enclothed cognition" is a two-way street, just like our daily clothing choice can make us feel good or bad.
On days where we don't feel our best the clothes we wear can make us feel better and act as our potential armour. On those days, I personally find it difficult to combine the right outfit. Sometimes I try to imitate someone else's style because on them it makes them look fierce; however I quickly realize that those same clothes don't have the same effect on me. And so I become uncomfortable; I’ll be tugging and pulling constantly on the garments I’m wearing, acutely aware of what I put on.
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The consequence is usually to never wear it again. In making this decision, fashion journalist Abraham sees a relation between cognitive dissonance and fashion. The term 'cognitive dissonance' describes a psychological phenomenon where an action that doesn't align with our personal beliefs or values leads to a conflict that causes a mental uneasiness. To reduce the mental discomfort, we either change the action so that it aligns with our beliefs again or we convince ourselves that the action is actually what we want to do.
In my case, by not wearing that type of outfit again, I bring my actions and beliefs back into alignment.
"You realize that the style doesn't fit your beliefs, ideals, or values, so psychologically you feel uncomfortable and will try to dissipate those feelings by changing your style," says Abraham. And I do, I will go back to wearing what makes me comfortable. Alternatively, we convince ourselves that the outfit is to show a new part of ourselves and is exactly what we want.
Now the question is: should you dress how you want to feel or dress how you feel? "I think you should dress how you want to feel because you should focus on how you aspire to feel instead of how you are feeling," says Abraham.
Dressing how you want to feel is a way to embody the state of mind you seek and to shape other people's perception of you in a positive way.
But fashion doesn't simply shape our perception and self-expression; fashion also influences how we are treated by other people which in turn can impact our mental wellbeing.
Abraham offers an example: "By wearing the newest trends, people may be more accepting of you because you are following within this framework of what is acceptable in society at the time."
Clothes signify how we want to be treated, what social group we belong to or want to be accepted into. Acceptance for who we are and what we wear gives us peace of mind, just as wearing clothes we are comfortable in can positively affect our mental state.
The best of Paris Fashion Week
Paris Fashion Week for Fall 2019 wrapped up on Tuesday, full of suits and sculptured silhouettes. Here are some of the best looks on show in the French capital.
Image: Reuters/R. Duvignau
Grace steals the show
The legendary Grace Jones wowed the crowds at the Tommy Hilfiger ready-to-wear show. The US designer teamed up with actress Zendaya to present a collection dedicated to diversity, hiring only African American models for the runway. Other iconic models included Pat Cleveland, the world's first black supermodel and Beverly Johnson, the first black woman to be on the cover of American Vogue.
Image: Reuters/R. Duvignau
Celine goes modest
The Celine show marked the sophmore outing for the fashion house's latest creative director, Hedi Slimane. After being criticized in his first collection for showing only tiny mini-dresses, the new Fall looks showed barely any skin below the neck. His 70s-inspired outfits were praised for, if not being revolutionary, at least being more in line with Celine's tradition.
Image: Reuters/S. Mahe
Romantic Valentino
Valentino chief Pierpaolo Piccioli collaborated with Japanese designer Jun Takahashi for this collection. Piccioli said he wanted to move away from unearthly designs and focus on human connections. To that end, he set out to create pieces inspired by romantic love, complete with rose motifs. He also worked with poets to create a book on love to hand out to audience members.
Image: Reuters/R. Duvignau
Garden of Givenchy
Clare Waight Keller, the creative designer of French house Givenchy, may be best known for designing Meghan Markle's wedding dress. On Sunday, the English designer presented a Garden of Eden-inspired collection, full of vibrant pinks, blues, and greens. She also showed quite a few suits, which, along with other shows, has led to Fall 2019 being dubbed "the season of the suit."
Image: Imago/G. Marineau
Basic Balenciaga
Balenciaga was amongst several fashion houses embracing minimalistic, structured silouhettes and lots of suits. Designer Demna Gvasalia said he wanted to pay tribute to the street fashion of Paris, and saw the collection as a love letter to his customers. Several male models in the co-gender show carried shopping bags, to imitate the look of Paris fashionistas on the prowl.
Image: picture-alliance/First View/Cover Images
Captivating Kenzo
Carol Lim and Humberto Leon did something unique for Kenzo's show this year, paying tribute to founder Kenzo Takada with a mixture of model looks and vintage pieces from when he started his first boutique in Paris in the 1970s. They also had a group of dancers come out and do a choreographed routine in vintage Kenzo that had everyone in the audience up and dancing.
Where do five-euro t-shirts come from? Slovenian photographer Jost Franko's latest series reveals the journey of low-priced garments from the cotton fields in Burkina Faso to the high-street shops in western Europe.
Image: Jost Franko
From rags to riches
The idea of farming seems today more abstract than ever before. Jost Franko's latest photo essay brings this distant world back to our reality, in which the ridiculous price of garments is paid by workers living in dire conditions. Pictured here is a relative of Issa Gira (67) from Burkina Faso, who's been growing cotton for 30 years, but still earns less than a dollar a day.
Image: Jost Franko
Weight control
After the crop is harvested, farmers just like these two in Burkina Faso have to bring the cotton to the collection centers in nearby villages. Just before the market day, farmers help each other press the cotton into a huge, hard mass so they're able to weigh their loads. "No one really cares about farming, the first part of the supply chain," says Franko.
Image: Jost Franko
The golden lining
Cotton farming gives work to more than four million people in Burkina Faso, and it is its second-most-valuable resource after gold. Sofitex is one of the three companies in the country that buys cotton from farmers and provides loans to cultivators, and it exports around 540,000 tons of cotton annually. Local farmers are seen here loading cotton into one of the many Sofitex containers.
Image: Jost Franko
Work-life imbalance
"Due to western cotton subsidies, which are creating a dumping effect, poor countries are in a huge loss," says Franko. In his opinion, the production of cotton and garments in third-world countries is just another form of colonialism. "Small workshops sometimes take subcontracted work for larger companies. The rent is expensive for most workers, so they sleep in the factories," he adds.
Image: Jost Franko
A princess' dress or a cushion?
In this photo, garment workers cut the textile in a factory in Dhaka, Bangladesh, the heart of the global cheap clothing industry. They earn 2.20 euros ($2.36) a day on average. Companies like H&M, Walt Disney or Lidl have their garments and home textile lines produced in the Dhaka region, which made the headlines in 2013 when the Rana Plaza sweatshop building collapsed, killing 1,129 workers.
Image: Jost Franko
The other side of the EU
"It's hard to talk about fair conditions even when it comes to expensive, high-fashion labels," Franko claims, describing this photo of Romanian garment workers. "The state of the garment factories in Romania is much better compared to most Asian and African countries, but wages are still extremely low, not exceeding 200 euros a month, which is worse than in China. And this is the EU!"
Image: Jost Franko
Last season's styles
Although the fashion industry has been stagnating trend-wise recently, which has made more styles trans-seasonal, more than 80 billion pieces of clothing are purchased every year worldwide. But the low quality and purchase cost make the clothes disposable. In the US alone, more than 15 million tons of used textile waste is generated annually.
Image: Jost Franko
Get the London look
"The history of cotton is indeed a dark one, and in my eyes, the issues surrounding the cotton trade have never ended," states Franko. Although much has been written and spoken about the invisible and destructive line of the clothing industry, customers seem to be immune: "I guess it's easier to turn a blind eye to it. Those issues are structural, and don't have to do only with garments."