He was more than a legendary designer. Gerd Müller-Thomkins, director of the German Fashion Institute, discussed with DW Lagerfeld's French and German sides, his irony and his unique twist on today's selfie society.
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DW:What was Karl Lagerfeld's importance for the world of fashion?
Gerd Müller-Thomkins:"Emperor Karl" or "Charlemagne," as he was called, was something of the Sun King of Fashion. Consider his long career of 35 years as designer-in-chief for Chanel, a fashion house rich in tradition, and decades spent with other brands like Fendi, Balmain and Chloé, and it's clear that we've lost a fashion genius. And his talent didn't just find its output in fashion, but also in photography and literary activities.
We're taking leave of an extraordinary personage who made an icon of himself. One expression of that iconic status was his appearance in his slim outfit after losing weight, complete with sunglasses, fan, ponytail and gloves with exposed fingertips. He once said in an interview: "I am up to 90 percent virtual." That of course is what happens when someone is so pervasive for so long, so clear in his self-presentation and when expressing the the styles of the brands he worked for.
What was his signature at creator-in-chief at Chanel?
He took over the brand when it was pretty run down, saying, "It's not my job to do what Coco Chanel did, but to do what she would have done." There's a lot contained in that statement. Design is always about picking up traditions and reinterpreting them, adding a personal, authentic note to traditions in their modern forms of expression.
8 of Karl Lagerfeld's models
He turned German model Claudia Schiffer into a superstar, but she was not the only one. Many of the models hired by Chanel's legendary designer were also his muses. Here's how they paid tribute to their mentor.
Image: picture-alliance/AP/L. Cironneau
Claudia Schiffer
Lagerfeld had an inestimable impact on the career of Claudia Schiffer (far right on this picture). "Karl was my magic dust, he transformed me from a shy German girl" into one of the world's most famous top models in the 1990s, she said. "What Warhol was to art, he was to fashion; he is irreplaceable," she wrote on her Instagram account in tribute to her legendary mentor.
Image: picture-alliance/AP/L. Cironneau
Ines de la Fressange
Lagerfeld saw her as the archetype of "the Parisienne." One of his earliest and most iconic muses, French model Ines de la Fressange (right) was the first to sign an exclusive contract with Chanel, in 1983. "He was the opposite of the great couturier who had to suffer to create. He did nothing but work yet he refused to make it look like work," she told press agency AFP after his death.
Image: picture-alliance/dpa/H. Ballhausen
Stella Tennant
Lagerfeld felt the androgynous elegance of British model Stella Tennant perfectly reflected the spirit of Coco Chanel, and Tennant became another one of his muses. He described her as "the face and attitude of our times. She does not correspond to the glamour of the '90s. She is truly a beauty for the end of the century."
Image: picture-alliance/abaca/C. Guibbaud
Baptiste Giabiconi
He initially worked at a helicopter manufacturing company before becoming a model — and Lagerfeld's muse. If Giabiconi (left) is now one of the world's top male models, it's thanks to his "guardian angel," as he described the designer on Instagram after his death. "Today I lost a part of me, a pygmalion, a father, a landmark."
Image: picture-alliance/dpa/epa/I. Langsdon
Lily-Rose Depp
The daughter of French star Vanessa Paradis — another one of Lagerfeld's muses — and actor Johnny Depp became a Chanel ambassador in 2015, just like her mother did in 1991. "Words can't express how much your belief in me has impacted every aspect of my life," she wrote on Instagram. "The world will never know another force like you."
Image: picture-alliance/AP Photo/F. Mori
Kaia Gerber
Another one who is following her famous mother's catwalk footsteps, Cindy Crawford's daughter, Kaia Gerber, was only 16 when Lagerfeld first hired her to walk for Chanel. "My dearest Karl, you have taught me things that I am eternally grateful for," she wrote on Twitter. "The world is more beautiful now because of you."
Image: picture-alliance/dpa/C. Charisius
Cara Delevingne
Lagerfeld saw English model Cara Delevingne as the Charlie Chaplin of the fashion world. "She is a kind of genius, like a character out of a silent movie," he said. Her tribute on Instagram also expressed how he changed her life: "He believed in me when so many others didn’t including myself […] He is a visionary, a genius but more than that.... a dear friend."
The Canadian model (at Lagerfeld's left, along with Cindy Crawford and Claudia Schiffer) began working with the Chanel designer in 1985, and became one of the most influential models of all time. Lagerfeld once said of her, "There is not another model in the world as professional as she is." After his death, she posted a picture of them together, and simply wrote: "Great love of my life."
Image: picture-alliance/dpa/AP/R. De La Mauviniere
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What is his legacy for designers to follow?
Lagerfeld always continued to interpret classical brands in the spirit of the time. He comprehended Coco Chanel as an idea, and certainly Fendi as well. He took those philosophies and further developed them, seizing the moment and carrying it into the future while creating the greatest possible contradiction to what was otherwise transpiring in the world of fashion.
As we know from his public appearances, he was a very courageous individual. Never at a loss for words, he celebrated that talent in talk shows. But he was also a multi-talent. What can we learn from that? We can take his authenticity and individuality as an example to be followed — also regarding a necessary amount of creativity that is always required when giving a modern expression to tradition.
Lagerfeld's fashion shows were always structured to represent topical issues, in terms both political and social. They always had to do with issues like liberation, the environment, consumerism and mobility. Lagerfeld was an extremely intellectual person rooted in the northern German mercantile tradition, and he ingeniously combined that with French fashion creativity. We know how those factors merged in his personality — and that can be truly seen as a model to be emulated by generations to follow.
His extravagance was his trademark. How important was the self-assigned role of dandy to his success?
Above all, Karl Lagerfeld was very much in touch with the times and comprehensively reflected on social and business trends. Even his dandy qualities mirrored the unbridled narcissism and egocentricity of today's selfie society, where it's all about "Me, Myself and I." He anticipated that too or at gave it his own twist because he was a very individual dandy. I think every child today could recognize Karl Lagerfeld by his silhouette.
Karl Lagerfeld, a brand
Best known as Chanel's creative director, Karl Lagerfeld became a brand in his own right thanks to his cat Choupette, often tactless remarks and that unmistakable look.
Image: Getty Images/AFPA. Jocard
Sunglasses and a ponytail
Karl Lagerfeld's ponytail and sunglasses made up his signature look. A shirt with a high collar, coat and tie, leather gloves and up to 30 rings on his fingers were just as indispensable. His unmistakable silhouette adorns the logo of his eponymous fashion label.
Image: picture-alliance/dpa/C. Seidel
Karl and his books
"I just can't stop buying books," Lagerfeld once said. They were all over his home. His bed was surrounded by towers of book and shelves line the walls, leaving little room for pictures. Lagerfeld's collection included about 300,000 books, mainly illustrated books on fashion and art, history and philosophy as well as essays and poems. The latter were his favorite.
Image: picture-alliance/abaca/D. Eric
Choupette
Fashion, books — and then there was his third great passion: his cat, Choupette. The famous "cat who refuses to eat from the floor" has her own staff, Facebook and Twitter accounts and inspired two Chanel collections. "There is something unforgettable about her," Lagerfeld said. "She is an inspiration for elegance, for posture."
Image: DW
Karl and his muses
Choupette was by no means Lagerfeld's only muse. Beginning in 1990, he boosted the international top model career of Claudia Schiffer (photo). Baptiste Giabiconi was another source of inspiration. Lagerfeld photographed the young French model himself, and presented the results in illustrated books and exhibitions.
Image: Imago/Zumapress
The photographer
In 1987, Lagerfeld took over some of the camerawork for his agency because the advertising campaigns for Chanel didn't always meet his high aesthetic standards. He shot numerous Chanel campaigns, photographed stars including Nicole Kidman, did fashion portraits for Vogue and made short films for Fendi and other fashion houses. In the above photo, Choupette stars in a campaign for Opel.
Image: Adam Opel AG
Legendary remarks
Sweatpants are a sign of defeat, Lagerfeld famously claimed. People lose control of their lives and "go out on the street in sweatpants," he added. That was probably not true for the Chanel variety he designed in 2014 as part of a campaign targeting "leisure activities with a professional background," which was, in fact, how Lagerfeld described his job. "Standing on an assembly line, that's work."
Image: picture-alliance/dpa/H. Ballhausen
Soul of Chanel
Lagerfeld's looks, his quick tongue, his muses and the cult surrounding his Burmese cat were enough to make him a brand in his own right. But first and foremost, he was the soul of the house of Chanel. He had been creating haute couture and pret-a-porter collections up throughout his life. He died on February 19, 2019, at the age of 85.
Image: picture-alliance/dpa/O. Hoslet
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The combination of sunglasses, ponytail, fan and gloves with exposed fingertips made him immortal during his lifetime. Then there were the pointed boots, enhanced later on with studs. It all had the allure of a rock star — and that at age 85. In the pop culture scene, where ageing is no longer limiting, he was in good company of course. I think that the self-transformation into an icon was an essential part of branding and the presentation of the brands he represented. He always had commercial aspects in mind — of course reflecting his personality in his outward appearance and attitude, but doing so quite consciously.
Lagerfeld was full of contradictions. On one hand, he was considered vain and imperious. On the other, a man of self-irony and generosity. How does that fit?
To me, contradictions are always a part of creativity. Creativity is a field of tension where intuition and creative reflection develop. You can see that he meant it seriously in other endeavors as well such as the Faust photo novel he created with Claudia Schiffer and David Copperfield. Or in his photos of architecture published in photo albums. Since we're talking about an ingenious spirit and a unique personality, we have to keep the breadth of his creativity in mind. And that creativity always had a touch of irony and self-irony, an ironic view of society, and of politics too. In France he put his dry humor, biting tongue and sharp quill to the task creating many drawings that were published in various magazines.
High Five: 5 of Karl Lagerfeld's most outrageous comments
Whether it's about models, cats or sweatpants — no one knew just what outrageous comment fashion designer Karl Lagerfeld would utter next. Here is a roundup of our favorites.
Image: Getty Images/AFP/F. Guillot
Lagerfeld on sweatpants
"Sweatpants are a sign of defeat. You lost control of your life, so you bought some sweatpants," said the fashion designer on a German talk show in 2012. Two years later, he sent Chanel models out on the catwalk in his own stylish sweatpants and didn't seem to care. He was true to his motto: I'm not interested in yesterday's gossip.
Image: picture-alliance/dpa/C. Karaba
Lagerfeld on beauty
The fickleness of the fashion world perfectly embodies Karl Lagerfeld. Trends come and go, and there's certainly plenty of fluctuation when it comes to models on the catwalk. In Lagerfeld's words: "Anyone considered beautiful today will find it hard to even land a cleaning job tomorrow." The couturier stayed true to his words, and changed his muses regularly.
Image: Getty Images for Chanel/K. Nagahama
Lagerfeld on cats
Lagerfeld would never say a bad word about his cat. Choupette was his one-and-only, and she traveled in his private jet around the world eating gourmet food. In 2013, he shocked with this declaration of love: "I never thought that I would fall in love like this with a cat," he said. "If I could, I would marry Choupette." Real emotions or a marketing ploy? Regardless, it definitely drew attention.
Image: DW
Lagerfeld on eccentricity
He powdered his hair white, drove a Rolls-Royce and always wore sunglasses and black gloves. At night, the designer supposedly slept in a long, white nightshirt, in which he also liked to draw. But Lagerfeld didn't find it funny. "I am very grounded, just not on this Earth," he said of his lifestyle. Not hard to believe.
Image: Getty Images/P. Le Segretain
Lagerfeld on stress
He once called for a 48-hour day, because 24 hours simply weren't enough. Lagerfeld was a workaholic that remained bustling in his 80s. Every year, Chanel's eight collections featured his works, as did numerous collaborations. His motto was: "I don't know stress, I know only rhinestones!" A quote that definitely works better in German, where rhinestone is "strass."
Image: picture-alliance/R. Witschel
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Lagerfeld was at home in both German and French cultures. What was the importance of "the French" in him, and of "the German?"
The particularly German quality was clearly his sense of discipline. I mentioned his background in a family of tradesmen. His success certainly would not have been possible had he come from a different background. We can't imagine his daily calendar or the velocity with which he sped through life. That's maybe most recognizable in the staccato quality of his voice and syntax. He was a person overflowing with knowledge, thoughts and creativity. The creativity and the artistic dissemination he sought were however not to be found in Germany. He found those things in France. So both sides — call them the yin and yang — were represented in him.
What did you personally like about Karl Lagerfeld?
I think it's a matter of style and attitude in various ramifications that go beyond the field of fashion, something that's probably lacking in politics today — and something this man simply had; maybe it was a quality of his generation.
As far as his fashion style goes, I personally esteem the successful hybrid of the traditional and the modern. If, for example, you consider Chanel's little tweed jacket or her little black dress: Those things have existed for decades. But if someone is able to give a modern interpretation to this material quality of fashion and, through modern patterns and up-to-date colors and cuts, bring it into a context that's perceived as credible today — for instance, by combining that tweed jacket with sneakers — this grounds the hybrid approach of fashion into reality. He was someone who, despite his illustrious personality, clearly remained grounded on what was to be expected and desired in his interpretation of fashion according to the times we live in.
Gerd Müller-Thomkins is the director of the German Fashion Institute (DMI) based in Cologne. For several years, the DMI has researched and analyzed current socio-cultural developments, trends and the zeitgeist of the fashion market, offering information for diverse branches of creativity including designers and product developers but also for industry and trade.