The 99th Salzburg Festival began with a repeat of the 2017 staging of Hugo von Hofmannsthal's mystery play "Jedermann." In it, Russian actress Valery Cheplanova is decked out as a vamp in a pants suit.
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In 2020, the Salzburg Festival will celebrate its 100th anniversary. Some sensations are likely being saved up for next year, so the premiere performance on Saturday evening was a repeat of an already familiar staging from 2017. In it, stage director Michael Sturminger places Hugo von Hofmannsthal's play Jedermann (Everyman) in a modern setting, also shortening and altering the text.
Narrow lanes, spacious squares, Baroque splendor and a glorious panoramic mountain view: the city where Mozart was born offers a perfect backdrop for the Salzburg Festival, one of Europe's loveliest summer festivals.
Image: Tourismus Salzburg/G.Breitegger
Salzburg Festival centenary: A city becomes a stage
Every summer, Salzburg becomes a showcase for stars and celebrities. In 2020, as the Salzburg Festival turned 100. Around 200 concerts, opera and theater performances in just 43 days attract more than a quarter of a million visitors from more than 80 countries to Austria's fourth-largest city.
Image: Tourismus Salzburg/G.Breitegger
Spectacle, drama and great opera
The festival opens every year with "Everyman" (pictured) on Cathedral Square. The production of this play in 1917 also marked the birth of the festival and has become its trademark since then. In addition to Cathedral Square, the Festspielhaus and the Felsenreitschule (Riding School) are its best-known venues. In 2020, actor Tobias Moretti (left) gets a new female paramour.
Image: picture-alliance/B.Gindl
Where the musical genius Mozart was born
Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart first saw the light of day at Getreidegasse 9 (left in the picture) in 1756. Now there is a museum in the family’s original living quarters. Mozart fans can see a second Mozart residence just around the corner, where he lived as an adult while serving as concertmaster until he turned his back on the city and moved to Vienna.
Image: picture-alliance
Getreidegasse: the flagship of the Old Town
It's always worth looking up: The delicate, playful wrought-iron guild signs above the shops and pubs are an optical highlight in Getreidegasse. Salzburg's soul is in its cafés — with their tempting sweet specialties: Salzburger Nockerln, a kind of baked soufflé, and Mozartkugeln, small, round chocolates filled with nougat and marzipan.
Image: picture-alliance/R.Goldmann
A UNESCO heritage site with 1,000 landmarks
As in Mozart's time, the Old Town is shaped by its narrow lanes and spacious squares. One of the loveliest is Kapitelplatz, Chapter Square. High above it towers the symbol of the city, Hohensalzburg Fortress, one of the largest medieval fortified castles in Europe. Since 1996 the Old Town has been a UNESCO World Heritage site.
Image: Tourismus Salzburg/G.Breitegger
Building the Baroque in Salzburg
In the 16th century, Salzburg's prince-archbishops had the DomQuartier district with its Residenz palace and St. Peter's Abbey rebuilt in Italian Baroque style to display their prestige and power. Their aim was to create a “Rome of the North.” Salzburg Cathedral is now considered a major innovation: the first early Baroque church building north of the Alps.
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Water games at Hellbrunn Castle
Hellbrunn Palace was one of the Salzburg prince-archbishops' prestige-building projects. This masterpiece of hydraulic engineering, with its water-powered automata and trick fountains, attracts 300,000 visitors a year and leaves none of them dry. The old trees that line Hellbrunner Allee, which runs through its park, provide a habitat for rare beetles, bats and woodpeckers.
Image: Schlossverwaltung Hellbrunn/Sulzer
Salzburg's most romantic weddings
Engaged couples queue up in front of Mirabell Palace on summer weekends for the privilege of saying “I do” in its Marble Hall. Prince-Archbishop Wolf Dietrich had this pleasure palace built 1606 as a love token for his mistress, Salome Alt. The park provides a vista that reaches as far as Hohensalzburg Fortress, framed by an alpine panorama.
Image: Tourismus Salzburg/G.Breitegger
Contrast program in the "Museum der Moderne"
On the steep cliffs of the Mönchberg, one of Salzburg's three local mountains, the puristic architecture of this museum of modern art challenges the Baroque of the Old Town. The museum focuses on modern Austrian graphic and photographic works. Its terrace provides one of the loveliest views of Salzburg.
Image: Museum der Moderne Salzburg/M.Haader
Amusement at Salzburg Airport
Airplanes, racing cars and delicious food: Since 2003, Austrian billionaire Dietrich Mateschitz has been sharing his passions with the public. In Hangar-7, a unique glass and steel structure, Mozart operas and TV shows take place in the middle of his historical aircraft collection. The event location also houses a gourmet restaurant and bars — all with a view of the Alps.
Image: picture-alliance/dpa
Electric Love Festival on the race track
Salzburg isn't just for classical music lovers: There's plenty of partying and dance music at the Electric Love Festival, which has taken in early July since 2013. In 2022, the festival took place from July 6-9. On the Salzburgring race track, usually used for motorsport events, 120 DJs appear on five stages. It's considered Austria's most important electronic music festival.
Image: picture-alliance/dpa/M. Nikelski
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Jedermann: A Salzburg regular since 1920
The performance of Jedermann on the square facing the Salzburg Cathedral is the festival's most famous ritual. Unlike previous years, often affected by rain, the premiere actually took place at the appointed location, with a downpour beginning only after the final act.
As in the past two years, Austrian theater and film actor Tobias Moretti is to be seen in the title role (seen at the top with Valery Cheplanova), with his brother Gregor Bloéb playing the double role of Everyman's good friend and the devil. Sturminger's mise-en-scene places the story in the milieu of investment bankers. During a party amidst fashionable bar tables, the central character suffers delusions — precursors of a deadly illness.
It's about a timeless issue: death, which can strike anyone anytime. The grim reaper is depicted by German actor Peter Lohmeyer, decked out as an androgynous punk figure with body painting and in high heeled shoes.
The character "Buhlschaft" (Beauty) has been recast this year, with Russian actress Valery Cheplanova in the role wearing a risqué, semi-transparent pants suit. As a liberated vamp and with a smoky voice in Roaring Twenties style, she sings a tune for Everyman.
The style of clothing worn by Everyman's lover is a subject of speculation and detailed reporting every year — disproportionately so, as it is a comparatively minor role.
Peter Sellars stages Idomeneo
On July 27 Mozart's Idomeneo premieres in Salzburg, staged by the US director Peter Sellars, who is known for his politically-tinged interpretations. The opera about the title character, the king of Crete who has to sacrifice his own son, is musically and scenically extremely turbulent. With a sea monster, two terrible storms and tides destroying everything in their path, it's possible that Sellars' staging may be seen as a commentary on climate change. The performance is under the musical direction of the Greek-Russian conductor Teodor Currentzis.
Altogether, the Salzburg Festival will present nearly 200 performances before it draws to a close on August 31. The playbill includes Luigi Cherubini's seldom-performed opera Médée, the opera Oedipe by the Romanian composer George Enescu, Verdi's Simon Boccanegra and Jacques Offenbach's operetta Orpheus in the Underworld. Held over six weeks, the festival also features new productions of five operas and four plays and more than 250,000 visitors are expected.