The open-toe footwear showcased last week at Milan Men's Fashion Week was simply described as "leather sandals."

But those flat leather sandals sparked controversy among Indian fashion critics, craftspeople and politicians, who noted that the design had been stolen from traditional Kolhapuri chappals — sandals named after the town of Kolhapur in Maharashtra, western India. The handcrafted footwear with an intricate interwoven pattern dates back to the 12th century.

For now, the sandals are not yet available on the market, but as luxury fashion brand items, they could typically sell at over €1,000 ($1,200) a pair. Meanwhile, authentic Kolhapuri sandals can be found in local markets for about €10 ($12).

Following a social media outcry, the Maharashtra Chamber of Commerce called on Prada to recognize the Indian roots of the design.

Reacting to the growing accusations of cultural appropriation, Lorenzo Bertelli, Prada's head of corporate social responsibility and son of the company's owners, acknowledged the Indian roots of the design in a letter sent to the chamber of commerce.

"We acknowledge that the sandals are inspired by traditional Indian handcrafted footwear, which carries a rich cultural legacy," wrote Bertelli in the letter, according to news agency Reuters.

He added that the sandals are still in the early design phase and may not reach the market, but that Prada is "committed to responsible design practices, fostering cultural engagement, and opening a dialogue for a meaningful exchange with local Indian artisan communities, as we have done in the past in other collections to ensure the rightful recognition of their craft."

A similar case 10 years ago

Designers are regularly accused of cultural appropriation and of failing to recognize their sources of inspiration.

Back in 2014, British fashion designer Paul Smith came under fire for his smooth, jet-black leather sandals advertised as "Robert."

Pakistanis recognized the design as reproducing the traditional Peshawari (or Charsadda) chappal — except the Paul Smith model sold for 20 times the cost of the same chappal in Pakistan if bought from an upscale store.

Following social media criticism and an online petition, the designer quickly added in the description of the footwear that it had been "inspired by the Peshawari Chappal."

Sandals to be patented

The Maharashtra Chamber of Commerce has now decided to have the Kolhapuri chappals patented to avoid any global copyright infringement in the future.

Known for their durability, the traditional flat sandals are already protected within the country by a geographical indication (GI) tag. The indication lists goods whose reputation is attributable to their geographic origin, and copying the design of these items for commercial gain without authorization or sharing benefits is illegal — at least within the country.

As of 2024, there were 603 GI-registered products in India.

Al Jazeera has also reported that a member of parliament from the state's Kolhapur district, Dhananjay Mahadik, who belongs to the governing Bharatiya Janata Party (BJP), is supporting sandal makers who are filing a lawsuit in the Bombay High Court against Prada.

Cow vigilantism disrupts leather supply

But despite political support in the Prada controversy, the sandal makers' leather supply has been affected by government politics surrounding cows, which are considered sacred by Hindus.

After Narendra Modi's BJP came to power in 2014, Hindu nationalist extremists felt emboldened to attack people transporting cows for trade and slaughter. The victims of these so-called cow vigilantes are overwhelmingly Dalits — traditionally the most marginalized of India's castes — and Muslims.

Despite their historical marginalization, artisans of the Dalit community are the ones who mastered the intricate weaving and design techniques of the iconic chappals. They have passed down these skills through generations. 

The Dalit Voice, a human rights group campaigning against discriminatory practices based on caste, race, gender, occupation and descent, pointed out in an Instagram post that the Kolhapuri chappals are more than just fashion — they're "a legacy of Dalit craftsmanship and resilience."

"They are history, identity and resistance," added the Dalit Voice. "Respect the roots."

Edited by: Brenda Haas