Istanbul's planned new cultural center gets political
Ceyda Nurtsch
May 25, 2018
Once the symbol of modern Turkey, the Ataturk Cultural Center has been abandoned for a decade since closing in 2008. Amid furious debate about its future, many are unhappy with the current grand plans for the site.
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Presenting the plans for Istanbul's new and hotly disputed cultural center
After being left to decay for 10 years, a revamped version of Istanbul's Cultural Center is to reopen in 2020. Many opposed the demolition of the building symbolizing Atatürk's modernist vision of Turkey.
Image: Architektur Galerie Berlin
Renewing pride
Located right on Istanbul's Taksim Square, a central transportation hub and popular tourist spot on the European side of the Bosporus, the Atatürk Cultural Center (AKM) used to be the pride of the Turkish Republic. It had been left to decay since 2008, but will finally get a makeover.
Image: Getty Images/O.Kose
A world-class venue
At the Architektur Galerie Berlin, architect Murat Tabanlioglu presented his model of the new AKM. A revived cultural icon for Istanbul, the venue's architecture and acoustics aim to attract world-class artists.
Image: Architektur Galerie Berlin
From father to son
The original AKM was designed by Murat Tabanioglu's father, Hayati Tabanlioglu. It opened in 1969 with a performance of Verdi's Aida. At the time, it was the fourth-largest opera house in the world. It had to close for renovations after a fire in 1970 and reopened in 1978 before it was shuttered in 2008 and essentially became derelict.
Image: Architektur Galerie Berlin
A retro touch
The new AKM will integrate into its architectural concept some of the features of its predecessor such as the lamps, tiles, or an aluminum staircase typical of the 1960s. Tabanlioglu however aims to bring the space into the 21st century.
Image: Architektur Galerie Berlin
A home for the State Opera
The former AKM once housed the Turkish State Opera and Ballet as well as the Istanbul State Symphony Orchestra before it closed its doors in 2008. These high art institutions will return to become the new main hosts of the venue, explained Tabanglioglu.
Image: Architektur Galerie Berlin
A symbol of the Republic
The aesthetically controversial AKM, often compared to a concrete block, was once one of the most modern buildings in the Turkish Republic, and symbolized the country's western orientation. Citizens' initiatives and the Chamber of Architects therefore criticized its demolition. Tabanlioglu's design will allow it to be restored instead.
Image: Architektur Galerie Berlin
Great expectations
"It should become one of the best opera houses in the world," says Murat Tabanlioglu. His architectural signed impressive designs in the past, such as the Istanbul Museum of Modern Art and the Dakar Congress Center.
Image: Architektur Galerie Berlin
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In Istanbul's Taksim Square, in the heart of the metropolis on the Bosporus, a dark concrete skeleton rises ominously, iron bars hanging from its unkempt facade.
Glossy posters advertise a glorious future: this 52,000 square meter space will soon host one of the most modern cultural centers in the world containing an opera house, concert halls, cinema and exhibition spaces. The new Atatürk Cultural Center (AKM) will boast architectural prowess, acoustic superiority, and is set to become a magnet for world-class international stars. That's the plan, anyway.
Should it stay or should it go?
As the dilapidated AKM awaits its glorious future, its glamorous past is fast fading away, however. Once one of the most modern buildings in Turkey, it was the fourth-largest cultural center in the world when it opened in 1969. With Verdi and plays by Arthur Miller on the bill, it expressed the lofty western cultural aspirations of the "Kemalist" elites who forwarded the ideology of the secular founders of the Republic of Turkey.
But since the closure in 2008 of the large concrete structure with its prominent glass front, opinions have been bitterly divided about how this great symbol of modern, secular Turkey should be reconstructed.
Atilla Koç, then Minister of Culture and Tourism of the ruling AKP party, moved to demolish the former opera house. Civic initiatives and architects meanwhile fought to preserve it as an architectural icon. They saw a potential demolition by the governing AKP party, which has increasingly restricted artistic freedom in Turkey, as synonymous with the demise of a once secular and western nation.
During the Gezi protests in the summer of 2013, demonstrators made the AKM a symbol of resistance to AKP rule. They hung illuminated banners on the façade reading, "We will not bow" and "Tayyip, be quiet" — a reference to reactionary president Recep Tayip Erdogan — and also occupied the rooftop.
Meanwhile, the cracked windows and the crumbling facade of what was once the pride of modern Turkish society is, for some, becoming symbolic of the deterioration of the country.
How European is Istanbul?
Europe and Turkey have a lot in common. Istanbul for one. The metropolis of 15 million is not merely geographically part of Europe. A foray through the city of contrasts.
Image: Rena Effendi
Istanbul defies categorization
Istanbul is the world's most famous city to rest on two continents: Europe and Asia. Here tradition collides with modernity, religion with secular lifestyles like hardly anywhere else. Many say that is exactly what makes Istanbul so magical.
Image: Rena Effendi
Two millenia as a metropolis
Istanbul looks back on more than 2,600 years of history, which has shaped the cityscape up to today. Various rulers fought to control it: Persians, Greeks, Romans, Ottomans. "Constantinople" was the center of the Byzantine and later the Ottoman Empire. The city was renamed Istanbul in 1930.
Image: Rena Effendi
Between worlds
The Bosporus is the soul of Istanbul. The strait separates the European and Asian parts of the city. Every day ferries carry tens of thousands of people from one side to the other. Seagulls cry into the wind. Tea and "simit" — a circular bread with sesame seeds — are offered on board. It takes around 20 minutes to travel between Karakoy in Europe and Kadikoy in Asia.
Image: Rena Effendi
Bridges span continents
The Galata Bridge is a good place to watch boats — and much more. Fishermen stand shoulder to shoulder here, hoping for a good catch. In their midst: merchants, tourists, shoeshiners, corn vendors. The first bridge was built here in 1845, when the city was called Constantinople.
Image: Rena Effendi
'Europe is a feeling'
"My name is Vefki," says one of the fishermen, waving us over. "I feel European. We want more freedom, which is why Turkey and the EU should come closer together again," he says. Vefki is a pensioner and fishing is his hobby — as well as an additional source of income. He sells 2 kilos (4.4 pounds) of fish for around €8 ($9.90) at the market, he says.
Image: Rena Effendi
Minarets in the heart of the city
Building machinery hums on Taksim Square in the heart of the city. A new mosque is being built with lightning-speed — and a 30-meter high cupola and two minarets. It's meant to be completed in time for the general election in 2019. Critics say Turkish President Recep Tayyip Erdogan is imposing a new identity on the square: conservative Islamic and neo-Ottoman instead of secular and European.
Image: Rena Effendi
European and pious
Everyday life in Istanbul's Fatih neighborhood is rather more conservative, though it is located in the European part of the city. Many of those who live here came from Anatolia in search of work and a better life. Some call Fatih the "district of the pious;" this is where many loyal supporters of the Turkish president and his ruling AKP party live.
Image: Rena Effendi
Shopping in the shadow of a mosque
A market takes place on Wednesdays near the mosque in Fatih. People hustle and haggle over kitchen appliances, clothes, bed linens, fruit and vegetables. Prices are lower than elsewhere in town. So are rents. Nowadays many Syrian families live in Fatih. Turkey has taken in more than 3 million refugees since the war in Syria began in 2011 — more than any other country.
Image: Rena Effendi
'Little Syria' in Istanbul
Fatih has in the meantime become known for its Syrian restaurants: Kebabs here come with extra garlic. The refugees are officially called "misafir," or "guests." Unlike in the EU, there is no such thing as being granted asylum here. Yet the government has promised Turkish citizenship to tens of thousands of Syrians. Critics see this as an attempt to win over additional voters.
Image: Rena Effendi
Nightlife in 'Hipstanbul'
Those who want to go out, party or drink alcohol must make their way to a different Istanbul neighborhood: to Kadikoy, on the Asian side, or to Karakoy (above), one of the oldest quarters, which has been gentrified through and through. Locals and tourists meet in its cafes, concept stores and galleries. Hardly anyone here can make much of the government's conservative Islamic policies.
Image: Rena Effendi
Tourists bring hope
"Istanbul has changed a lot," says Aysegul Saracoglu. She works in a designer store in the Galata neighborhood, which is popular among tourists. "So many European tourists came here on holiday just a few years ago." Now mainly Arab tourists come. "It's not good for our business," she says. "I hope that changes again soon."
Image: Rena Effendi
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The new improved AKM
But when architect Murat Tabanlıoğlu was commissioned to undertake the massive restoration and expansion of the AKM, it was seen as a victory for those who supported the preservation of the Kemal heritage since the architect's father, Hayati Tabanlıoğlu, designed the existing building.
When Tabanlıoğlu presented his vision for the space, it was announced that the core of the former opera house would be preserved and the prominent glass façade reconstructed. Other characteristic elements will also be brought back to life, including the free-floating aluminum staircase typical of the 1960s which gives the foyer its character.
"We will continue in my father's spirit" said the architect of his "recomposition" of the AKM.
Bowing to the religious right?
However, not everyone finds this pledge convincing. Indignation spread when it was announced that a large red-glass sphere would decorate the entrance. To many, this element was reminiscent of the cupula of a mosque and is symbolic of how the AKP has increasingly imposed its Islamicst religious views on a Turkish nation that was established as a secular state.
But Tabanlıoğlu disagrees with this interpretation: "First of all, red is the color that I personally associate with opera," he said. "The spherical shape symbolizes the semicircular arrangement of the seats in a concert hall that generates the best acoustics." Tabanlıoğlu was first and foremost inspired by the "total theater" concept of Bauhaus architect, Walter Gropius.
As the Turkish government continues to censor and even ban artistic institutions, some wonder what will happen to the Istanbul State Theater, Ballet and the Symphony Orchestra, which have been without a home since 2008. Tabanlıoğlu is reassuring: "They will all return to become the hosts of the Cultural Center, which is very important."
The architect's firm is responsible for other landmark buildings including the Istanbul Modern Art Museum, and the Dakar Congress Center. This project promises to be similarly ambitious.
"My goal is to make the house one of the best cultural centers in the world," Tabanlıoğlu explained. The Turkish capital was the 2010 European Capital of Culture, despite not having an opera house, and politicians want Istanbul's new cultural center to help maintain the country's strong international cultural presence.
But skepticism remains about a center that is likely to open its doors in two years — although President Erdoğan is promising the first quarter of 2019. As part of Istanbul's so-called "Urban Renewal Project," many historic buildings and neighborhoods were demolished and replaced by soulless shopping malls.
Both through its architecture and programming, the new AKM will have to prove that it is not a sterile and functionalistic flagship project, but rather a cosmopolitan cultural center that revives its old ethos and breathes new life into the arts.
Photographers capture Turkey's unrest and upheavals
The exhibition "Türkiyeli" at Berlin gallery "f hoch drei" shows the work of seven contemporary Turkish photographers. Their critical reflection on hot topics such as refugees and protests express the turmoil in Turkey.
Image: Ceren Saner
Between art and documentation
The range of themes covered in the exhibition is huge: refugees, the war in Syria, police violence in the Kurdish areas of Turkey, the construction boom and gender issues. Kürşad Bayhan's photos of bottles that have been decorated by Kurdish women symbolize the war-like conditions in southeastern Turkey.
Image: Kürşat Bayhan
The Human Chain of Suruç
Magnum photographer Emin Özmen focuses on the conditions in the Kurdish regions of Turkey. "Turkey's Hidden Wars" is the title of his black-and-white series. His works show water cannons and tear gas being used by the police and he captures curfew hours. His photo from January 2015 (above) shows Kurds forming a human chain in Suruç to support Kurdish fighters battling the "Islamic State" (IS).
Image: Magnum/Emin Özmen
Celebration despite war
Thousands of people came to the Newroz new year's festival in Suruç in March 2015, which took place despite the war. Above, men take a break during their journey. Suruç became a symbol of resistance to the IS. Emin Özmen considers his work to be like a documentary: "In order to find solutions to the massive problems in our region, we need to have a detailed picture of what is happening."
Image: Magnum/Emin Özmen
Refugees from Kobane
In his series "Moving Portraits," Barbaros Kayan focuses on the fears of refugees from Kobane who were being housed in camps in Turkey. He wanted to find out what happens when these people return to their home countries. Kayan traveled to Syria and documented the destruction and devastation there.
Image: Barbaros Kayan
New conceptual imagery
Barbaros Kayan also photographed Syrians living in the Turkish refugee camps as part of the series. He placed their silhouettes on photos of their hometowns, creating compositions that confront the viewer with new visual themes.
Image: Barbaros Kayan
Gentrification in Istanbul
Göksu Baysal mainly focuses on the construction boom and gentrification, especially in Istanbul, in his series "Istanbul Reloaded." The pictures depict violence against nature and highlight the rising demand for energy caused by the aggressive building boom.
Image: Göksu Baysal
Monotonous gray
Under the pretext of making the city safer against earthquakes, a program called "urban renewal" is replacing historic neighborhoods with gray landscapes built of concrete. The local population is often too poor to afford these new apartments and as a result is usually driven out of these areas.
Image: Göksu Baysal
Gezi - from protest to civil movement
What started as a protest against the building boom in Istanbul turned into the Gezi Park demonstrations of summer 2013. In his picture series called "Gezi," Kemal Aslan addresses the resistance of the population against the arbitrariness of the political system. For several weeks, thousands of people in Istanbul demonstrated for freedom and against oppression by institutions.
Image: Kemal Aslan
Women between autonomy and oppression
Since the Gezi protests, the role of civil society has become more prominent, and in particular the role of women. At the same time, however, violence against and murders of women continue to increase steadily. Emine Akbaba's series "Precious Blossom" focuses on women who are unable to free themselves from oppression.
Image: Emine Akbaba
Women as victims of violence
In international comparison, violence against women is extremely high in Turkey. Every other woman reports that she has been harassed on at least one occasion. Between 2010 and 2016, more than 1,600 women were murdered in the country. Emine Akbaba, winner of several photography awards, tries to raise awareness through her work about women's rights, gender equality, and freedom of expression.
Image: Emine Akbaba
'Isn't it love?'
Turkey's LGBT movement has also gained more attention since the start of the Gezi protests. "Isn't it love?" is the title of the series that Ceren Saner produced, which highlights images taken at queer parties. In this photo compilation, Saner questions the nature of love - not sexuality. In Turkey, the series is only shown during the Pride Week or at private events.