Following two previous successful auctions, the third tranche of the fashion legend's estate will go under the hammer at Sotheby's newest auction house, in Cologne.
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The mere mention of Karl Lagerfeld often evokes a vision of the celebrated fashion designer sporting his signature white ponytail, wearing a fitted black suit with starched white high-collared shirt, dark glasses and fingerless gloves.
Now, a selection of his clothes and accessories will make up the nearly 550 lots to be auctioned off by Sotheby's in the German city of Cologne — in a series of online and live bids that will be made between April 29 and May 6, 2022.
It marks the third and final series of auctions following the 2021 Monaco and Paris KARL auctions that together earned a staggering €18.2 million ($19.4 million) — four times pre-auction estimates. It will also be Sotheby's first live auction at its newest German headquarters.
This time, the pre-auction estimate for the entire Cologne offering is around €700,000, with starting prices ranging from €10 to €80,000 for items as diverse as furnishings, Dior Homme suits, turn-of-the-century posters, iPods, and even accessories belonging to the late designer's beloved Birman cat, Choupette.
The items together tell "the story of the couturier, the collector, the decorator and the photographer," according to Sotheby's.
A love of all things German
According to Sotheby's, the auction items come primarily from Lagerfeld's residence in Louveciennes, an 18th-century villa near Versailles that celebrated his German roots with advertisement posters and furniture from his homeland.
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Lagerfeld, who died aged 85 in 2019, had a penchant for early 20th-century German art, amassing a significant collection of German advertisement posters across 30 years.
One poster by Lucian Bernhard for a popular brand of German soap in the early 20th century features the image of a white cat — with an uncanny resemblance to Choupette — cleaning itself, cleverly alluding to the function of the advertised product.
"I love the graphic side of 'Das Cabinet Des Dr. Caligari'," he wrote in Vogue in 2016. "I'm an expert on German silent film."
The collection also features several pieces of furniture, including a canary-yellow sideboard and an ornate green dressing table, by famed 1920s German architect and furniture designer, Bruno Paul.
Lagerfeld's own sketches — whether from his inspiration books or made while designing for three fashion houses namely Chanel, Fendi, and his eponymous label — are also up for sale.
Karl Lagerfeld, a brand
Best known as Chanel's creative director, Karl Lagerfeld became a brand in his own right thanks to his cat Choupette, often tactless remarks and that unmistakable look.
Image: Getty Images/AFPA. Jocard
Sunglasses and a ponytail
Karl Lagerfeld's ponytail and sunglasses made up his signature look. A shirt with a high collar, coat and tie, leather gloves and up to 30 rings on his fingers were just as indispensable. His unmistakable silhouette adorns the logo of his eponymous fashion label.
Image: picture-alliance/dpa/C. Seidel
Karl and his books
"I just can't stop buying books," Lagerfeld once said. They were all over his home. His bed was surrounded by towers of book and shelves line the walls, leaving little room for pictures. Lagerfeld's collection included about 300,000 books, mainly illustrated books on fashion and art, history and philosophy as well as essays and poems. The latter were his favorite.
Image: picture-alliance/abaca/D. Eric
Choupette
Fashion, books — and then there was his third great passion: his cat, Choupette. The famous "cat who refuses to eat from the floor" has her own staff, Facebook and Twitter accounts and inspired two Chanel collections. "There is something unforgettable about her," Lagerfeld said. "She is an inspiration for elegance, for posture."
Image: DW
Karl and his muses
Choupette was by no means Lagerfeld's only muse. Beginning in 1990, he boosted the international top model career of Claudia Schiffer (photo). Baptiste Giabiconi was another source of inspiration. Lagerfeld photographed the young French model himself, and presented the results in illustrated books and exhibitions.
Image: Imago/Zumapress
The photographer
In 1987, Lagerfeld took over some of the camerawork for his agency because the advertising campaigns for Chanel didn't always meet his high aesthetic standards. He shot numerous Chanel campaigns, photographed stars including Nicole Kidman, did fashion portraits for Vogue and made short films for Fendi and other fashion houses. In the above photo, Choupette stars in a campaign for Opel.
Image: Adam Opel AG
Legendary remarks
Sweatpants are a sign of defeat, Lagerfeld famously claimed. People lose control of their lives and "go out on the street in sweatpants," he added. That was probably not true for the Chanel variety he designed in 2014 as part of a campaign targeting "leisure activities with a professional background," which was, in fact, how Lagerfeld described his job. "Standing on an assembly line, that's work."
Image: picture-alliance/dpa/H. Ballhausen
Soul of Chanel
Lagerfeld's looks, his quick tongue, his muses and the cult surrounding his Burmese cat were enough to make him a brand in his own right. But first and foremost, he was the soul of the house of Chanel. He had been creating haute couture and pret-a-porter collections up throughout his life. He died on February 19, 2019, at the age of 85.
Image: picture-alliance/dpa/O. Hoslet
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Of music and cats
The collection also includes curiosities and Karl Lagerfeld's personal objects, such as gifts from his friends, memorabilia, home textiles and his famed iPod collection.
A noted music fan, Lagerfeld once told The Observer magazine: "The iPod is genius. I have 300." He even reportedly employed an "iPod nanny" who curated his vast selection of iPods and ensured they were on-point with the latest music. A selection of his iPods — Nano and 7th generation — are expected to fetch between €3,000 and €6,000.
More of the collection on sale was of course inspired by Lagerfeld's cat Choupette, with whom he spent the last eight years of his life, including a letter from Brigitte Bardot to the feline and a cat wheel with pedestal.
"There is something unforgettable about her, the way she moves, the way she plays, she's an inspiration for elegance – for attitude," he once said of the Birman cat.
The long-time Chanel creative director inevitably possessed some personal fashion items that will now be sold off, including custom-made monogrammed loafers and the Dior Homme suit jackets. Accessories that were synonymous with Lagerfeld are also up for sale, including fingerless gloves and dark glasses.
Prior to the auctions, a diverse array of objects and memorabilia were presented in travelling public exhibitions at Sotheby's galleries in Munich and Vienna, as well as at Palais Oppenheim in Cologne, giving collectors an insight into the 'Kaiser' of the catwalk's unique estate.
Online bidding on 250 lots will take place at Sothebys.com/KARL between 29 April and 6 May 2022, while on 4 and 5 May, 2022, Sotheby's will hold two live auctions of the remaining 300 lots at its German headquarters at the Palais Oppenheim in Cologne.
A look at Lagerfeld's final collection for Chanel
The presentation of Karl Lagerfeld's last collection for Chanel, shown at Paris women's fashion week on Tuesday, opened with a minute of silence in tribute to the fashion giant.
Image: Reuters/R. Duvignau
An alpine winter wonderland
For Chanel's presentation at the Paris Fashion Week, the Grand Palais was transformed into a ski resort, complete with mock Swiss chalets and artificial snow. The presentation featured Lagerfeld's final collection for the label, the Fall/Winter 2019-2020 women's ready-to-wear line. The location, with its spectacular dome, has often featured the label's awe-inspiring sets.
Image: Reuters/R. Duvignau
Fluffy whites
Penelope Cruz joined the Chanel family last autumn, but this was the actor's catwalk debut. Wearing a fluffy skirt and a ruffled top, Cruz held a white rose in her hand, a tribute to her close friend who died on February 19. "There will always be a place in my heart for you, my dear Karl," she wrote on Instagram after his death.
Image: Reuters/R. Duvignau
White roses
The white rose was also a motif among the collection's romantic and feminine hair accessories, as shown here. The black bow was a fashion element the label's founder, Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel, would often use herself. Feathers and brooches were other trends featured in the latest Chanel collection.
Image: Reuters/R. Duvignau
The handbags
Lagerfeld was renowned as the "master of reinvention," revisiting the codes first established by Coco Chanel, whose quilted handbag remains an absolute classic. Colorful, furry versions of it made a remarkable appearance at the latest Paris Fashion Week show.
Image: Reuters/R. Duvignau
A touch of color
But it wasn't only a black-and-white show of mourning, as these models demonstrate. Along with colorful overcoats in primary colors, the collection featured belt pouches with Chanel's iconic double-C logo and furry winter boots.
Image: Reuters/R. Duvignau
Model muse
One of Lagerfeld's muses, German model Claudia Schiffer was among the stars attending the Chanel show. It was thanks to the designer that she became a supermodel in the 1990s: "Karl was my magic dust, he transformed me from a shy German girl into a supermodel," she wrote about him after his death.
Image: Reuters/S. Mahe
The successor
Virginie Viard, shown here alongside Lagerfeld at the Chanel show in 2018, was given equal credit with the late designer for the latest collection. As the designer's longtime "right and left hand," she is taking over the creative direction of the label.
Image: picture-alliance/dpa/I. Aldama
An emotional farewell
Cara Delevingne (left), one of Lagerfeld's most recent muses, opened the show with a tweed black and white winter outfit, with a revealing V-neck covered with jewelry. She's shown here leading the way as models return for a final bow at the end of the presentation. As they saluted the creator who had such an impact on their lives, many of them struggled to hold back their tears.