Twenty years after the Kosovo war, the city of Mitrovica in the north of Europe's youngest state remains divided between ethnic Albanians and Serbs. What's life like for people who live on one side and work on the other?
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The Ibar River flows through Mitrovica, effectively dividing the city and its inhabitants. Those living on the south side are mostly ethnic Albanians, whereas the north is inhabited mostly by ethnic Serbs.
Few of the city's inhabitants dare venture across the main bridge, which acts as a de facto border and is blocked to vehicular traffic. Heavily armed Italian troops patrol the bridge as part of NATO's international peacekeeping mission Kosovo Force (KFOR).
Twelve years since Kosovo's declaration of independence, Serbia still refuses to recognize the country as an independent state.
And the ethnic Serb minority who live in the north of Kosovo do not recognize the government in Pristina. They have formed their own assembly, which works closely with the Serbian government in Belgrade.
On the northern side of the bridge, men in plainclothes who appear to be casually waiting around in cars carefully observe anyone who crosses from the south to the north. They scowl at passersby, sometimes making rude comments.
Upon arrival on the north side of the river, all trace of Kosovo disappears. Red, white and blue flags featuring the Serbian eagle are everywhere, with no Kosovar flag in sight.
Kosovo: Independent and divided
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Bridging the language gap
Dhurata Prokshi, a 33-year-old translator, crosses the bridge in this direction every day to work at the courthouse in North Mitrovica. "It's not great to be an Albanian who works in the north," she told DW. But, she said, "the Serbs in the north have the same feelings when they have to go to southern Mitrovica."
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Prokshi told DW that she hasn't had any trouble in the year since she started work, explaining that she gets on well with her Serb colleagues. She said it's easy for her to communicate in Kosovo because she speaks both Albanian and Serbian.
"There are no problems in places like the court if I speak Albanian," she said. "But if I were to order in Albanian in a restaurant or cafe in the north, I'm not sure how people would react."
At the south side of the bridge, a red flag bearing a black eagle — Albania's coat of arms — dominates the entry to this part of the city. There's no Kosovar flag here, either.
Milos Vucinic, a 23-year-old Serb, regularly crosses the invisible border to go south, where he teaches English at an aid organization. He told DW that he used to always be scared when he was in south, but that he was also very curious. "I wanted to find out what life was like in the other part," he said.
Since he doesn't speak any Albanian, he explained that he uses English to communicate when he's in the south. This also helps to avoid any conflict. "I have some Albanian friends at work, too," he told DW. "I go for a coffee with them from time to time. At first they were surprised when I told them that I had never come to southern Mitrovica before. They showed me around the city, and then also brought me to Pristina."
Vucinic said the young Serbs living in the north are the most affected by the city's division. "They want a life without restrictions, and they want to get ahead professionally, but there are hardly any opportunities in the north. We hope that the future will be better."
This article has been translated from German.
NATO intervention against Serbia — a look back
The 1999 NATO bombardment of Serbia ended that country's violence against Kosovo Albanians. Still, more than 20 years later, the war, which was conducted without UN backing, remains controversial.
Image: picture-alliance/dpa
Traces of war on the Kosovo field
The Kosovo conflict intensified at the end of the 1990s. Ten thousand people were displaced. When all efforts to bring peace to the region failed, NATO started air strikes on Serbian military bases and strategic targets in Serbia on March 24, 1999. After 11 weeks, Serb leader Slobodan Milosevic finally backed down.
Image: Eric Feferberg/AFP/GettyImages
Non-violent resistance fails
Protests against Belgrade's attempts to undermine the rights of the Albanian majority in Kosovo began in the mid-1980s. The 1990s saw a massive increase in Serbian repression. Ibrahim Rugova (l.), who took the reins of Kosovo's political movement in 1989, called for non-violent resistance and sought to convince Slobodan Milosevic (r.) to change course — to no avail.
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Armed guerrilla war
An armed resistance formed in Kosovo, in which the self-proclaimed Kosovo Liberation Army (UCK) began a brutal guerrilla war. The UCK undertook violent attacks on Serbia as well as against Albanians it considered to be collaborators. Serbia retaliated by torching houses and looting businesses. Hundreds of thousands of people fled.
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Systematic expulsion
The war grew increasingly brutal and Serbian forces stepped up attacks on civilians in an attempt to destroy the UCK and its supporters. Scores of people fled into the forests. Thousands of Kosovo Albanians were loaded onto trains and trucks to be transported to the border, where they were thrown out without passports or other personal documents that could prove they were from Kosovo.
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Last attempt to negotiate
In February 1999, the USA, France, the United Kingdom, Russia and Germany convened a meeting of warring parties in Rambouillet, France, in an attempt to establish autonomy for Kosovo. Kosovan representatives accepted the proposal, yet Serbia was unwilling to compromise. The negotiations collapsed.
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'Humanitarian intervention'
On March 24, 1999, NATO began bombing military and strategic targets in Serbia and Kosovo in an attempt to end violence against the Albanians. Germany also participated in the bombing. "Operation Allied Force" became the first war in NATO's 50-year history — one conducted without the backing of the UN Security Council. Russia harshly criticized the intervention.
Image: U.S. Navy/Getty Images
Crippled infrastructure
Beyond military targets, NATO also bombed supply lines, train tracks and bridges. Over the course of 79 days and nights, allied forces flew more than 37,000 sorties. Some 20,000 missiles and bombs rained down on Serbia. Many civilians were killed: "collateral damage," in the words of NATO.
Image: picture-alliance/dpa
Toxic cloud over Pancevo
Industrial sites were also targeted. In Pancevo, near Belgrade, NATO bombs hit a chemical and fertilizer factory. Massive amounts of toxic substances were released into rivers, the ground and the skies — resulting in grave health risks for the nearby civilian population. Moreover, Serbia accused NATO of deploying uranium-enriched munitions as well as cluster and fragment bombs.
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Targeting the propaganda machine
State television offices in Belgrade were attacked in an attempt to deprive Slobodan Milosevic of his most important propaganda tool. Although the Serbian government was warned of an impending attack in time, Belgrade withheld that information. Sixteen people were killed when the site was bombed.
Image: picture-alliance/dpa
Misguided bombs
NATO bombs in Kosovo inadvertently hit a group of Albanian refugees, killing an estimated 80 people. NATO also claimed that the accidental bombardment of the Chinese Embassy in Belgrade was another case of "collateral damage." Four people were killed in the misguided attack, leading to a diplomatic crisis between Beijing and Washington.
Image: Joel Robine/AFP/GettyImages
The ghastly toll of war
In early June, Belgrade signaled that Slobodan Milosevic might be prepared to surrender, prompting NATO to end its campaign on June 19. The final toll of the war: thousands of dead and 860,000 refugees. Serbia's economy and large swaths of its infrastructure were destroyed. Kosovo was put under UN administration.