Is there a more iconic silhouette than Christian Dior's New Look? Marking 70 years since the start of the fashion house, a Paris museum is hosting a huge retrospective on the life and work of the world-famous designer.
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A look back: 70 years of Christian Dior
Marking 70 years since the start of the Dior fashion house, the Musee des Arts Decoratifs in Paris is hosting a huge retrospective on the life and work of the world-famous designer.
Image: Musée des Arts Décoratifs/Fabien Jannic-Cherbonnel
'Quite a revolution!'
"It's quite a revolution, dear Christian! Your dresses have such a new look!" said Carmel Snow, the former editor-in-chief of the American edition of Harper's Bazaar when Dior unveiled his first collection in 1947. The exhibition at the Musee des Arts Decoratifs in Paris is the largest ever retrospective of the Dior fashion house.
Image: Musée des Arts Décoratifs/Fabien Jannic-Cherbonnel
Dior and friends
Dior was friends with numerous artists, such as Salvador Dali and Jean Cocteau. The curators have included several portraits of Dior throughout the exhibition, including this one painted by German artist Paul Strecker in 1928.
Image: Musée des Arts Décoratifs/Fabien Jannic-Cherbonnel
Modern collection
While Dior was a lover of Art Nouveau and 19th-century art, he also collected sculptures and painting made by his contemporaries. "Retrospective bust of a woman," one of Dali's first pieces, was on display at the Dior exhibit.
Image: Musée des Arts Décoratifs/Fabien Jannic-Cherbonnel
Artistic inspiration
Dior often took inspiration from paintings for his designs. Here, the Madeleine gown almost feels as if it came straight out of Giovanni Boldini's "Portrait of Madame R.I.", at left.
Image: Musée des Arts Décoratifs/Fabien Jannic-Cherbonnel
Impressionism, pret-a-porter
This gown, created by Raf Simons for a Miss Dior commercial, looks like an impressionist painting. It is made of mousseline fabric.
Image: Musée des Arts Décoratifs/Fabien Jannic-Cherbonnel
Dior with a twist
Dior's successors, such as John Galliano, kept the designer's touch while incorporating their own perspective. These two gowns by Galliano were inspired by primitive art.
Image: Musée des Arts Décoratifs/Fabien Jannic-Cherbonnel
Making history
"Dovima and the Elephants," an iconic photo by American fashion and portrait photographer Richard Avedon, was taken in 1955 and is considered one of the most important pictures in fashion history. The gown worn by the model was designed by Yves Saint Laurent for Dior.
Image: Musée des Arts Décoratifs/Fabien Jannic-Cherbonnel
A new take on Dior
Maria Grazia Chiuri, creative director at Dior since July 2016, was the first women to succeed Christian Dior as head of the fashion house. She has blended her own personal style with the unmistakable Dior silhouette.
Image: Musée des Arts Décoratifs/Fabien Jannic-Cherbonnel
World-famous silhouettes
The world-famous Dior silhouette, overly feminine, was inspired by paintings. "There's a clear inspiration from silhouette from the 18th and 19th centuries," explained Olivier Gabet, the museum's director. Taking a note from this, the exhibition ends in a ballroom filled with glittering ball gowns, some previously worn by movie stars.
Image: DW
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Much has been said about Christian Dior's first collection in 1947, which took women's fashion in a completely new direction. Long gone were the masculine silhouettes of World War II, and in were long dresses, flowing curves and soft shoulders.
"His work was an ode to feminism and joy, something that had been lost during the war," explained Olivier Gabet, director of the Musee des Arts Decoratifs in Paris, which is hosting an impressive new exhibition on the fashion house to mark its 70th anniversary.
At the time, Dior's New Look was seen as nothing short of revolutionary. The use of bright colors and the abundance of fabric were a novelty after years of shortages during the war. But where did Dior's influence come from?
"Art," says the new Parisian exhibition. Few know that Dior, after his childhood in Granville, Normandy, ran an art gallery from 1928 to 1934 in the French capital. For the exhibition, the curators gathered a series of paintings and sculptures collected by the master himself. And while he had a fondness for antiquities and Art Nouveau objects, Dior collected and sold the work of some of his contemporaries such as Salvador Dali or Christian Berard.
His love for art had a direct influence on his work when he became a designer in 1957, said Gabet.
"Dior took inspiration from art, instead of doing things the other way," he said. "He never really intended to work in fashion. He made his way progressively to fashion until the creation of the Dior House. This is truly a specialty of Dior that was kept by his successors."
The various rooms of the exhibitions are arranged thematically, with lavish or floral gowns presented next to a painting that might have inspired their creation. The Madeleine gown is particularly striking; it feels almost as if it came straight out of Giovanni Boldini's "Portrait of Madame R.I.".
Even the world-famous Dior silhouette, overly feminine, was inspired by paintings. "There's a clear inspiration from silhouette from the 18th and 19th centuries," explained Gabet. Taking a note from this, the exhibition ends in a ballroom filled with glittering ball gowns, some previously worn by movie stars.
Respectful successors
The new Paris exhibition also makes it its objective to show that Dior's successors, after his death in 1957, retained what made his creations so special. Even John Galliano, l'enfant terrible of the fashion world who took the helm of the house in 1996, managed to blend his punk fashion with the simplicity of the Dior touch.
Yves Saint-Laurent, Marc Bohan, Gianfranco Ferre, Galliano, Raf Simons and Maria Grazia Chiuri all chose to explore Dior's favorite themes: art, of course, but also photography, colors, floral design or a fascination for foreign cultures.
In the flower room, a particularly striking gown, created by Raf Simons for a Miss Dior commercial, looks almost like an impressionist painting with its soft colors and its mousseline fabric.
The evolution of Christian Dior's revolutionary New Look
Only two years after the end of World War II, the French couturier presented a collection that symbolized not only a departure from previous styles, but the beginning of a new society.
Image: L. Hamani
The birth of the icon
On February 12, 1947, Christian Dior presented his debut haute couture collection in Paris. Immediately dubbed as the "New Look," its most prominent features included rounded shoulders, a cinched waist, and a full, A-line skirt. With its clearly articulated feminine silhouette, the "Bar" suit (picture) was one of the most recognized ensembles of the late 40s and early 50s.
Image: L. Hamani
Everybody wants to wear Dior
Dior's New Look became instantly popular among the couture clientele, and the middle class followed quickly. Women in Europe and the US would go to salons and ask seamstresses to emulate Dior's style for a fraction of the couture price. To stay ahead of the game, Dior would change his style every year: His Fall 1948 collection emphasized the neckline and played with embroideries.
Image: L. Hamani
The more the better
After World War II, the New Look intended to revive the lavish fashions of the 19th century and the French Belle Époque. In 1949, Dior made his point clear with a fall collection inspired by the Roman mythology for which he embellished dresses with ombréed petals, sequins, rhinestones, and pearls. The "Junon" dress is still being copied by various dressmakers to this day.
Image: L. Hamani
The vertical line
At the beginning of the 50s, Dior's style went through some degree of transformation. Increasingly inspired by men's tuxedos and by his numerous trips to the United States, he conceived a more streamlined and modest silhouette for his Spring 1950 collection - although some styles still maintained the characteristic New Look volumes.
Image: L. Hamani
Elaborate simplicity
Newly found lightness and simplicity defined Dior's collections in 1951, even though nothing is ever really simple when it comes to haute couture. Dior might have replaced strict tailoring for fluid draping that year, but the neckline, for instance, would be constructed by an elaborate system of invisible wires to hold together its form
Image: L. Hamani
The silver lining
In contrast, Dior adopted a rather rigid style in 1952. The dresses had very sharp contours and grasped the body. The contradiction between the solid line and the romantic brocades, highlighted by the use of silver and gold threads, would create a literally breathtaking experience for the wearer as well as for the observer.
Image: L. Hamani
The Tulip line
When Dior wasn’t working in his ateliers in Paris, he would come to his hometown of Granville, France, where he would dedicate his time to gardening. His enthusiasm for horticulture led to flower-inspired 1953 collections of mostly monochromatic looks with voluptuous dimensions that once again liberated the body.
Image: L. Hamani
Dior among socialites
"H is for horrid or heavenly," wrote one journalist about Dior's H-line silhouette, the controversial slim-fitting shape with a straight, narrow cut that falls to or just below the knee, which was introduced in his Spring 1954 collection. However, many wealthy American women came to Paris to buy Dior that year, so he balanced the act with glamorous dresses for debutantes and their mothers.
Image: L. Hamani
Looking forward
A shift in style was apparent at Dior in the mid-50s. The daily wear became almost minimalist, inspired by men's wardrobe again, and the evening wear was composed with ease. He replaced rigorous understructures with almost architectonic, hand-shaped constructions, but that didn't mean his creations lost anything of their opulence.
Image: L. Hamani
A new blood
The change in Dior's work was, no doubt, caused by his new first assistant, the young Yves Saint Laurent, who was hired in 1955. Since then, Dior started to drift away from the New Look line. The cuts got boxier, ignoring the bust, waist, and the hips. As it is visible from this dress from 1956, nonetheless, the demand for the classic Dior pieces was still huge.
Image: L. Hamani
Young, fresh, and new
On March 4, 1957, Christian Dior became the first couturier to appear on the cover of "Time" magazine. In just 10 years, Dior grew into a leading fashion authority. After his sudden death the same year, Saint Laurent was named his successor, and despite his short stay, he injected the house with the young spirit, which allowed the brand a smooth transition to the Swinging Sixties.
Image: L. Hamani
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70 years later, Dior's legacy lives on
But what made Dior, and the legacy he left behind, so important even today is the simplicity of its message, said Gabet.
"Christian Dior's concept was extremely simple," he said. "Sometimes when new collections are presented, the explanation given is extremely convoluted. But Dior just wanted to make women beautiful so they could be happy. It might seem naive, but that was something new in 1947."
This simple goal, as well as the New Look silhouette, left a long-lasting impression on other designers and French couture houses. A room of the exhibition showcases gowns and dresses created by other couturiers, such as Jean-Paul Gaultier or Pierre Cardin, some paying homage to the designer.
Walking through the 3,000 square meters of the exhibition - the largest retrospective ever staged - proves just how successful Dior had been at creating, not just gowns but also a fashion empire. Bottles of perfumes, photographs and magazine covers displayed throughout the exhibition prove that the Normandy native managed to create a cohesive Dior universe immediately recognizable by all.
One thing is clear: in just 70 years, Dior has become the embodiment of the élégance à la française, and if the current revival of the New Look on runaways is any indication, it will remain so for a very long time.
"Dior: Designer of Dreams" runs at the Musee des Arts Decoratifs in Paris from July 5 to January 7, 2018.