It's spring and Mallorca's seagulls still have most of Playa de Palma beach to themselves. Basking in the sun, they only take flight when an occasional visitor ventures too close. The main tourist strip on the Spanish island is slowly shaking off its winter slumber.

But a few kilometers further on, in the heart of the island's capital Palma, the situation is less tranquil. Last weekend, thousands of demonstrators took part in a march organized by 60 different groups who are demanding affordable housing while criticizing the island's tourist industry.

The protesters say holiday rentals and foreigners buying up island property are partly to blame for the increasing struggle among locals to find affordable housing. In recent days, graffiti that blames realtors for the housing shortage has appeared on real estate agencies across the island.

Priced out of the housing market

"Housing has become an object of speculation," says Carme Reynes, who co-organized the protest march. She's from the small town of Sencelles where she says you can't find a single rental apartment for less than €1,200 ($1,300) per month.

Since most people on average Mallorca incomes can't afford that sort of rent, more and more people are sharing apartments, Reynes says.

"I know of entire families living in a single room," the activist tells DW.

At the same time, 180 Sencelles apartments and houses are available as holiday rentals.

"More and more people are leaving the island because they can no longer afford to live here," Reynes says.

A few weeks ago, various citizens' associations addressed an open letter to holidaymakers, causing a stir.

It stated: "Locals are angry and no longer hospitable because the island we love is being destroyed — and because many are being forced to move away because Mallorca is becoming uninhabitable."

"We don't need any more tourists," the letter continued. "You are the cause of our problem, stay at home!"

Record tourist numbers

For years, Mallorca has been one of Europe's top tourist destinations, especially among German and British vacationers who flock there for the sun and beaches.

A record 13 million tourists visited the island last year. This year, even more tourists are expected. But mass tourism is putting immense strain on the island's natural resources.

Without Mallorca's desalination plants, for example, there would not be enough drinking water. And during the summer months, many beaches, roads and cities become hopelessly overcrowded.

The regional government has recognized that things cannot go on like this.

"The time has come to set limits," Prime Minister Marga Prohens announced last year, adding that "tourism cannot continue to grow endlessly."

The conservative government, however, is shying away from drastic measures. Although it recently announced a moderate increase in the overnight accommodation tax, a special tax on rental cars and stricter rules for holiday rentals, it is unlikely any of this will be implemented soon because the government lacks a parliamentary majority.

Instead, leading lawmakers from the Balearic Islands once again traveled to key tourism trade fairs in a bid to further promote the region and tap into new markets. This year, for example, United Airlines increased the number of direct flights offered between New York and Mallorca, a route first introduced in 2022.

Affluent US tourists could come to Mallorca as well

Many Palma protesters see such ongoing travel promotion as another sign that their politicians are not serious about limiting mass tourism.

But restaurateur Mika Ferrer, who heads the Palma Beach quality initiative, looks forward to more affluent US vacationers visiting the island. That is because he wants to transform Playa de Palma, which has become notorious for boozy party tourism, into a chic, up-market holiday destination.

"US visitors consume a lot and spend a lot of money on vacation," he tells DW. Ferrer much prefers such tourists to those who come to party, stock up on cheap alcohol from the supermarket and misbehave.

For many years, Palma has been trying to upgrade the popular Playa de Palma beach strip. But so far, all efforts have been in vain.

This summer, things should be different. Palma Mayor Jaime Martínez recently announced a comprehensive security plan to prevent the excesses of the past.

This will entail a significant increase in police presence at Playa de Palma, along with video surveillance and drones to support law enforcement officers. The touristic code of conduct, which prohibits public drunkenness for example, has long been in place but will be be properly enforced. Authorities are looking to get Playa de Palma tourism under control by setting clear limits on acceptable behavior. 

The seagulls on the long sandy beach, meanwhile, are unaware of all this, enjoying the calm before the storm.

This article was originally written in German.