This isn’t the first time DW presenter Jaafar Abdul Karim has been here. And as ever, he’s amazed by the stark contrasts that permeate this society: An exciting juxtaposition of conservative values and modernity affecting many areas of life including dating. He finds out more in Alexandria where he meets Shaima Ali, founder of the Muslim dating app "Hawaya". Next on the itinerary is Ras El Bar in the Governorate of Damietta, where the mouth of the Nile meets the Mediterranean. The resort city is also notable for the fact that, since 2018, Manal Awad Mikhail has been the first Coptic Christian woman to lead a provincial administration in Egypt. Jaafar talks to her about bolstering women’s rights, the conflicts between Muslims and Christians and the country’s economic woes. In Port Fouad, the presenter meets architect Mohamed Hasan. The two undertake a tour of the historical sites by ferry on the Suez Canal. The roots of simsimiyya music lie in the harbor city of Port Said. Traditionally, the stringed instrument is only played by men. But at the Al Hawiyat Club, things are done differently. This is where Eman Hadoo and her friends founded the first female simsimiyya group. The UNHCR says more than 250,000 refugees live in Egypt - many of them from Sudan. Jaafar Abdul Karim visits Amira Al Masry. In the year 2019, the 22-year-old launched the WANAS initiative, to support Sudanese children through art and theater workshops and ease their integration into Egyptian society.