A group of artists have started a journey across West Africa in a rickety school bus. They want to bring culture to the region with their rolling art space while collecting inspiration for their own works.
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Nigerian-born artist Emeka Udemba looked annoyed. The yellow Mercedes school bus, his new home for the next six weeks, should have long been rolling out of Lagos, Nigeria's biggest city. But the right tail light was missing its cover.
"You have to fix it or you create problems for yourself," Udemba told the driver. By problems, Udemba meant the police, who have a reputation for using any fault on a vehicle as a reason to stop it to collect a bribe. "Then you have to be creative to solve the problem," said Udemba, laughing.
The broken tail light probably won't be the only problem that the group of artists will encounter on their 10,000 km journey through seven West African countries from Lagos to Senegal and back again. The trip is expected to be an adventure, which is why they also have a mechanic on board. It's also a chance for an abundant exchange of ideas.
Artists residency with a difference
The six participating artists come from Nigeria, Ghana, Ivory Coast, Senegal and Germany. Some started from Lagos this week; the others will be picked up along the way as the rolling art space travels to Senegal's capital, Dakar. There, they'll attend the African contemporary art fair, Dak'Art, which is held every two years.
Dak'Art 2016 presents rich variety of contemporary African art
Africa's largest biennial dubbed Dak'Art has opened until June 3rd in Dakar, Senegal. 65 African artists showcase their work under the theme "re-enchantment." Its curator is Simon Njami.
Image: DW/E. Landais
"Local understanding, the world is nine collection" by Aida Muluneh (Ethiopia)
Aida Muluneh's exhibit consists of images from a series of photographic works in which she questions life, love, history, and whether we can live in this world with full contentment. The title comes from an expression used by Muluneh’s grandmother "the world is 9, it is never complete and never perfect." Aida Muluneh is an Ethiopian artist based in Addis Ababa.
Image: DW/E. Landais
"Vox populi" by Fabrice Monteiro (Benin)
Presented in one of the halls of the former Palace of Justice the work of Monteiro is a reflection on power, or the "drift" of power in Africa. A large chair in the form of golden eagle sits on a red carpet. Fabrice Monteiro invites visitors to reflect on the misuse of power and write their thoughts in a book titled 'Vox Populi', or the voice of the people.
Image: DW/E. Landais
"L’avant réenchantement" by Alexis Peskine (France/Brazil)
The multimedia exhibit in the main hall of the former courthouse focuses on what happens before the re-enchantment, before Africans arrive at their new destination looking for 'enchantment'. A flat screen displays videos shot by the artist of men wearing crowns of golden miniature Eiffel towers representing the migration to Paris.
Image: DW/E. Landais
"Last Supper" by John Kamicha (Kenya)
John Kamicha’s art focuses on questioning societal assumptions. He confronts taboos such as sexual identity, prostitution and Christianity. Rather than accepting Jesus as sacred, he considers his life as a human being. Kamicha used Leonardo da Vinci’s ‘The Last Supper’ as a basis for a provocative collage.
Image: DW/E. Landais
"Untitled" By Kine Aw (Senegal)
Kine Aw lives and works in Senegal. Her vision revolves around the universe of women in the Sahel: round shapes, beauty, traditional versus modernity and themes inspired by her own experiences. Her critical voice encourages women to reflect on their lives.
Image: DW/E. Landais
"Un reve" by Nabil Boutros (Egypt/France)
The installation of transparent plastic bags worming their way through a barbed wire hoop hangs from the ceiling lit up by fluorescent tubes. Nabil Boutros chose to represent the dream of a liberated Africa, responsible for itself, through his installation.
Image: DW/E. Landais
"Life versus time" by Ephrem Solomon (Ethiopia)
Ephrem Solomon addresses human identity and that of Africans in particular. Symbolism plays a key role in his socio-political work. Those portrayed bear the burdens and uncertainties of modern life.
Image: DW/E. Landais
"United Nations of Jollof" by Folakunle Oshun (Nigeria)
The installation of 15 pots represents the members of the West African regional bloc ECOWAS and is a glimpse of a larger installation at the National Museum of Lagos. 'The United Nations of Jollof' is an imaginary political reality of a collaboration between African militaries bound by a common goal of achieving peace on the continent.
Image: DW/E. Landais
"Série Princesse" by Dalila Dalleas Bouzar (Algeria)
The series of paintings by the Algerian painter reflects on what a princess dreams of through several portraits of women with different facial expressions, depicted in gold and black.
Image: DW/E. Landais
"Les rhizomes infinis de la revolution" by Kader Attia (Algeria/France)
Kader Attia's installation called "The infinite Rhizomes (a continuously growing horizontal underground stem with jutting lateral shoots) of the revolution," represents trees in rebar rods and slingshots as the nature of man and his revolt. And sometimes revolutions begin with a stone.
Image: DW/E. Landais
"In action" by Mbaye Babacar Diouf (Senegal)
Mbaye Babacar Diouf is a Senegalese artist. The large ink canvas is covered in minutely drawn men clinging to and hanging off each other, either in ascent or for survival.
Image: DW/E. Landais
"The Prayer Room" by Victor Ehikhamenor (Nigeria)
Victor Ehikhamenor is a Nigerian visual artist, photographer and writer. Written inscriptions cover the walls, floor and ceiling of a blue-lit room entitled "the Prayer Room." Author: Emmanuelle Landais
Image: DW/E. Landais
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On their journey to Dakar, the artists plan to meet with people from all sorts of backgrounds and cultures. The idea is that these experiences will feed into art created on the tour. These works will then be exhibited on the return trip at cultural centers in Senegal, Guinea, Ivory Coast, Ghana, Togo and Nigeria.
The diverse mix of artists on board the bus is also deliberate.
"It will be a crazy exchange," said German photographer Gabriel Goller, as he loaded his bags onto the bus. "There are different artists who all do different things: sculptors, painters, artists who work more digitally, photographers like me. That's a nice mix. Something very creative will come out of this."
The trip has an important mission, says Friederike Möschel, the director of Germany's Goethe Institute in Lagos, which is supporting the tour, called 'Stretched Terrains', for the second time.
"It's really about connecting West African artists with each other. Unfortunately there is not enough exchange between them," Möschel told DW. "On one hand, this is because of language barriers between the English-speaking and French-speaking parts of West Africa. But there are also logistical problems: bad air connections, expensive visas, complicated journeys overland."
Monsuru Alashe knows first hand what Möschel is talking about. The Nigerian experimental artist and photographer took part in the last tour. Just driving from Lagos to the Benin border – a trip of only 100 km – took nearly ten hours.
"As soon as one checkpoint is over, the next one comes again," he said. "And they ask the same questions that others have asked. You waste so much time. That was very frustrating."
'Everyone needs culture - not just the rich'
The idea for the rolling art space stems from Emeka Udemba, who now lives in Germany, but still has strong ties to home. As well as an artist exchange, Udemba wants to bring culture to West Africans. He believes the best way to do this is with a mobile museum.
"It could go to every part of the city. Everybody needs culture, everyone needs stimulation, so it is not just for the rich or the good areas," Udemba told DW while waiting for bus's broken tail light to be fixed.
"The idea of a museum today is not just to store stuff – it's also to discuss, it's a place for artists to experiment on new ideas. It is just like a meeting point for all kinds of society. So I am having such a platform where it can be brought everywhere," Udemba said.
After a two-and-a-half hour wait, the artists were finally able to board the bus. Seated in the front row, Udemba smiled with anticipation. The group's first destination: the infamous border crossing with Benin.