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Paris goes short and sexy for fashion week

September 28, 2016

From see-through tops to transsexual models, Paris Fashion Week has taken a decidedly direct approach to gender issues featuring both daring debuts and tried classics.

A model presents a creation during the Etam Live Show Lingerie
Image: Reuters/C. Platiau

Paris Fashion Week opened Tuesday with label Neith Nyer sending four transgender models down the catwalk. Created by young Brazilian designer Francisco Terra, its spring/summer 2017 pret-à-porter collection featured a "Fight Club" theme characterized by a disheveled and distinctly juvenile mix of leather and denim.

Terra told French news agency AFP that his 1990s-reminiscent show was directly inspired by the sex scene between Helena Bonham Carter and Brad Pitt in the 1999 film, "Fight Club."

Facial piercings complemented his cyber punk mix of Chanel-like suits and repurposed leather jackets, accessorized with scarves and embroidery.

Hotly awaited on Tuesday was the debut of Yves Saint Laurent's new creative director, 36-year-old Belgian designer Anthony Vaccarello. Though the legendary Parisian house has been known for black, Vaccarello took the color to a new depth in his lacy, racy collection.

What wasn't black, was nude. The designer didn't shy away from revealing a nipple here and there, shortening skirts as much as possible, and topping leather pants with sheer blouses.

Vaccarello said his collection was inspired by an 1982 dress created by the late Yves Saint Laurent himself - even though the late designer's partner Pierre Berge had advised him not to try to emulate the late founder.

One particular eye-catcher in the collection was these sleek statement stilettos bearing the YSL initials. 

Wednesday morning, fashion house Lanvin continued the event with its first women's collection by Bouchra Jarrar, who took up the reigns from Alber Elbaz. Jarrar also maintains her own brand and has worked with other haute couture labels like Balenciaga and Christian Lacroix.

As "New York Times" fashion critic Vanessa Friedman revealed in this video on Twitter, the collection relied on classic blacks and white, adding in plenty of feathers and sheer fabrics for an extravagant touch.

Speaking of extravagant, Kim Kardashian arrived in Paris Wednesday for the fashion event, so the party can continue. Paris Fashion Week continues through October 5, with houses like Chloé, Christian Dior, Valentino, Givenchy, Hermés, Chanel and Louis Vuitton set to show over the next few days.


kbm/eg (AFP, Reuters)

 

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