Paris couture runways show changing face of fashion
Rebecca Staudenmaier with AFP, DPA
July 2, 2017
Paris haute couture fashion week has kicked off with designs ranging from copper-frilled skirts to garbage bag gowns. The inclusion of ready-to-wear brands shows the high fashion event is broadening its horizons.
The four-day event, which kicked off on Sunday in the French capital, will see at least 35 fashion houses present their fall 2017 collections - including some brands from the US, Netherlands and Belgium that are typically known for their ready-to-wear styles.
How to Become Haute Couture
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Some 550 journalists from 25 countries are to attend the shows along with wealthy high-fashion lovers for the runway presentations this week, according to Vogue magazine.
The French fashion association, which determines the highly exclusive circle of designers who can call their products haute couture, extended invitations this year for certain designers to present their work as so-called "guest members."
Garbage bags and beaded shoes: Couture newcomers make a statement in Paris
Paris haute couture fashion week has kicked off with designs ranging from copper-frilled skirts to garbage bag gowns. The inclusion of ready-to-wear brands shows the high fashion event is broadening its horizons.
Image: picture-alliance/abaca
Everyday objects turned high fashion
The husband-wife design team behind A.F. Vandevorst made their Paris couture debut with a striking, punk-inspired collection.
"Being on the couture schedule gave us freedom. Because we are guests, we are not bound by the real rules of haute couture," designer An Vandevorst said following the show, reported fashion magazine Women's Wear Daily.
Image: picture-alliance/abaca
Garbage bag chic
Several of the couture creations in the A.F. Vandevorst collection utilized garbage bags as skirts, hats and dresses. Although some designers have played with using unconventional materials in the past, this A.F. Vandevorst gown seeks to make a trash bag truly wearable.
Image: picture-alliance/abaca
Transforming old into new
Some of the A.F. Vandevorst looks involved putting traditional pieces in untraditional places - such as this long coat being used as a head piece on top of a military-style jacket.
Image: picture-alliance/abaca
Taking Paris by storm
New York-based brand Proenza Schouler also debuted as a "guest member" in this summer's Paris haute couture week. Dark bustiers peeked out behind asymmetrically-draped ruffles in dresses that are seeking to be both high-fashion and ready-to-wear.
Image: picture-alliance/AP Photo/F. Mori
Fancy feet
Proenza Schouler played it up with their inventive footwear. Long, tubular beads gave a frilly feel to these flat slingback shoes.
Image: picture-alliance/AP Photo/F. Mori
Putting on a show
Official haute couture designer Adeline Andre, who also designs ballet and opera costumes, integrated theatrical elements into her show. Models appeared encased in rigid, colorful forms, but gradually shed their outer garments to reveal the dresses underdeath.
Image: Getty Images/T. Chesnot
The big reveal
With a little help from designer Adeline Andre (L) herself, the structural shells were removed and models continued to walk the runway in simple, flowing gowns.
Image: Getty Images/T. Chesnot
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One such "guest" was Dutch designer Ronald van der Kemp, who started off the fall high fashion season with a show for his brand RVDK.
Alexander Fury, the chief fashion correspondent for the New York Times' fashion-focused T Magazine, tweeted a picture from the show.
Long, bell-shaped hats paired with bold blouses and a gown with large, copper-colored ruffles were among the highlights in Van der Kemp's collection.
Fully accredited fashion houses have to follow strict guidelines established by the French fashion association, including that their pieces must be handmade and that designers have to have at least 20 tailors working in their studios.
Only 15 brands continue to hold this distinction, including Chanel, Christian Dior, Jean Paul Gaultier, and Maison Margiela.
Romance and trash bags
Two other couture newcomers, New York-based Proenza Schouler and California-based Rodarte, also showed their collections in Paris on Sunday.
French haute couture designer Julien Fournie, who is known for dressing royalty, told news agency AFP that he welcomed the inclusion of the US brands, that are known for dressing Hollywood royalty.
"Everyone has the right to come to Paris to measure themselves against the greats. All the better (that) the Americans come and we will see what they can do," Fournie told AFP.
Rodarte, run by sisters Kate and Laura Mulleavy, sent out a romantic collection with models wrapped in flowing organza gowns and black leather biker gear.
Vanessa Friedman, fashion director and chief fashion critic at the New York Times, snapped a picture of one Rodarte model wreathed in a mass of flowers.
The Belgian husband-wife team behind A.F. Vandervorst put forth one of the more edgy collections of the day for their Paris couture debut. Models walked the runway with head dresses, hats and wimples made of purses and jackets. Several models sported gowns constructed from garbage bags.
"It's about total freedom and creativity, and a women who lives out of her suitcase... transforming old stuff into new," designer An Vandervorst told news agency AFP.
Monday and Tuesday will see grand, multi-hour runway spectacles from fashion powerhouses Dior and Chanel.
Chanel's veteran designer Karl Lagerfeld will also be presented with the Grand Vermeil medal – the highest honor the city of Paris can bestow. He will be awarded the medal on Tuesday by Mayor Anne Hidalgo following Chanel's show.
Avant-garde fashion, futuristic design: Pierre Cardin
Avant-garde and futuristic design: French fashion designer Pierre Cardin has been a fashion visionary for over 70 years and will be remembered as a legend of haute couture.
Image: picture alliance/AP Photo/C. Ena
Successful entreprenuer
Born to French parents on July 2, 1922 in a town near Venice, Pierre Cardin was a teen when he started in dressmaking and quickly embraced the idea of "bella figura." In men’s fashion in particular, Cardin designs have a sculpture-like silhouette. The owner of 800 factories worldwide, a castle, a museum and half a village, Cardin was one of the richest men in France.
Image: picture alliance/dpa/Y. Valat
Retro design
In the 1960s, Pierre Cardin dressed his models in shiny patent leather, plastic, and tight, shimmering metallic bodysuits - all of which are totally hip at the moment, too. Cardin presented the above collection at the 2012 Barcelona Fashion Week. Cardin fashion is available worldwide in dozens of franchise and privately-owned retail stores.
Image: picture alliance/dpa/A. Garcia
Futuristic vision
Cardin always tended toward Italian futurism. Painters and sculptors, architects and designers had a significant influence on his abstract fashion designs. Cardin’s ideas were often breathtaking - but not really suitable for everyday use. Few men would actually go shopping in a "Made by Cardin" outfit like the above.
Image: picture alliance/dpa/L. Dolega
Couture for men
Cardin revolutionized fashion: each new collection was different, was more innovative. His creativity appeared to be boundless. He was the first fashion czar to sell affordable haute couture off the rack. The famous Galeries Lafayette department store carried his collections, including the above menswear for the fall/winter season 1983/84.
Image: picture alliance/dpa/AFP
Quality matters
Fastidious, Pierre Cardin made sure his fashion was cut from the best material. Fabric was made to his specifications. He was usually ahead of his terms in his choice of colors and texture. Cardin set new textile trends, and other couturiers often followed his lead. Above, the designer inspects exquisite tweed wool fabric.
Image: picture alliance/dpa/UPI
Icing on the cake
The designer is involved in every minute detail before the models saunter onto the catwalk to present his latest fashion. Above, he tweaked a hairdo here and a hat there for a show presenting avant-garde fashion in Rome in 1960.
Famous fashion designers like to be surrounded by rich, beautiful women. Or better still, celebrities, queens, film stars and female aristocrats. As a businessman, Pierre Cardin was fully aware of the promotional effect that stars like "Bond-Girl" Ursula Andress had when wearing his designs in the glitzy world of Hollywood.
Image: picture alliance/IMAGNO/Votava
The Cardin brand
The fashion house that Pierre Cardin founded in 1950 has become both a temple of haute couture and a vast business empire. Cardin has sold more than 600 licenses to produce clothes under his brand name. This discreet leather patch adorns the backside of Pierre Cardin men’s jeans all over the world.
Image: picture alliance/dpa/R. Fellens
Space Odyssey
Always good for a spectacular surprise, Cardin let male and female models show his 2008 spring/summer collection striding down a catwalk across a desert landscape in northwestern China. A year later, he sold licenses to China to sell coveted Cardin fashion and accessories.
Image: AFP/Getty Images/P. Parks
True extravagance
2016 saw the last Cardin fashion show to date. This time, however, it was presented in classic catwalk style in Paris, the fashion capital and the center of Cardin’s business empire since 1944. As always, the colors and styles were modern and distinctive. The nonagenarian still spends hours every day sketching draft designs.
Image: picture alliance / AP Photo/C. Ena
Crafty genius
His fashion and the Cardin empire have made the Italian-born designer not only rich, but also a legend among old-school fashion designers like Christian Dior, Coco Chanel and Yves Saint Laurent. Pierre Cardin was a match for them all.