War with Iraq may be only days away, but there was little tension on our AWACS flight to Konya. With candy bars, fresh fruit and Coca-Cola available, the passengers on the three-and-a-half hour flight from Germany to Turkey were in a good mood.

Make no mistake, this was no Lufthansa vacation flight.

The AWACS, which stands for airborne warning and control system, is a modified Boeing 707, chock-full of state-of-the-art surveillance equipment. Instantly recognizable with its black rotating radar dome, it is considered the world’s best air battle command and control aircraft.

Used during the last Gulf War in 1991 and during the NATO air war over Kosovo in 1999, the AWACS planes are on a strictly defensive mission this time around. The planes are patrolling Turkey's border with Iraq to provide an early warning for a possible attack from Iraq.

Still, the planes' deployment to Turkey was controversial.

A mission dogged by critics

France, Germany and Belgium originally blocked NATO planning to increase Turkey's defenses for several weeks last month. They feared the measures would be the equivalent of planning for war and would undermine United Nations efforts to avert a war in Iraq.

After a few unpleasant days of diplomatic haggling at NATO headquarters in Brussels, the alliance eventually approved a U.S. request for the AWACS in mid-February.

NATO has 17 such planes at its base in Geilenkirchen, not far from Germany’s border with the Netherlands. The AWACS fleet and about 1,800 airmen fall under the command of German Gen. Johann Dora, who joined the flight to visit the 70 pilots, radar specialists and aircrew members stationed in Konya.

Dora, who has racked up 3,000 AWACS flight hours, explained the integral role the planes have come to play since entering NATO service in 1982. “The AWACS can take over a number of offensive and defensive tasks, making them crucial for coordinating modern air warfare,” Dora said.

On the ground in Konya, two planes stood ready on the tarmac under clear blue skies while a third patrolled near the Iraqi border, which is a two-hour flight away from the base. “Up till now the AWACS have observed parts of both Iraqi and Turkish airspace,” Dora said. “We can’t give exact details, but the Turks have been very positive about our support.”

Club Med at the crossroads

The base itself has long been used for NATO training purposes and offers the airmen and soldiers stationed there as many of the amenities of home as possible. Lodged in attractive green wood cabins, they have access to a well-equipped gym, billiards and table-tennis and even a sauna. The mess hall cook from Geilenkirchen serves German specialties as well as other favorites such as steak.

One of the other visiting journalists compared the camp to tour operator Club Med, but the constant roar of jet engines made it abundantly clear no one has come to Konya for vacation.

As Gianfranco, an Italian air traffic controller who gave only his first name, explained: “When NATO says it’s your job to protect Turkey, then I do my duty.”

Up until now that duty has been training and waiting. With Gianfranco’s two-week-long shift in Konya over, he was set to fly back to Geilenkirchen with us. But with the United States giving Iraq an ultimatum this week to either disarm or face military action, his replacement may have little time for the sauna.