An exhibition in Berlin showcases "Sibylle," an East German fashion and culture magazine that for decades offered women in the communist state more than dress patterns.
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'Sibylle': the East German version of 'Vogue' magazine
It was the most famous fashion magazine in the GDR. An exhibition in Berlin shows how the imagery in "Sibylle" subtly reflected the evolution of the political system until it failed in 1989.
Image: Günter Rössler
Fashion for the working woman
Known as the "East German Vogue," the fashion magazine "Sibylle" was characterized at its beginnings by covers with strong contrasting colors. The idea of the bimonthly publication was to promote feminine elegance and fashion without any political references. But by the late 1960s and in the 1980s, the magazine did not always conform to the values of the German Democratic Republic (GDR).
Image: Willi Altendorf
Templates for fashion
The photos from the early 1960s usually featured models in static poses, shot in studio. The designs featured in the magazine could not be bought in East Germany. Instead, it provided sewing patterns for the clothes, allowing women to reproduce the blouses and skirts themselves. In West Germany, the magazine "Burda," based on this concept as well, had already gained popularity in the 1950s.
Image: Günter Rössler
Out of the studio
The style of the magazine changed in 1962 with photographer Arno Fischer, who was a professor at the Weissensee Academy of Art in Berlin. Models were photographed in more natural, everyday contexts — shown for instance walking around the streets of Berlin or, as above, sitting on a bench of a U-Bahn station.
Image: Günter Rössler
Fashion from the East
Fashion photography and everyday photographic observations were increasingly combined in the magazine through a growing number of features from Eastern Europe. Moscow played a major role as a "fashion metropolis."
Image: Günter Rössler
'Today's women'
In the 1970s, when economic success failed to materialize, the mood started changing in East Germany. The magazine featured workers' culture more prominently in its pages. Western fashion publications were no longer an inspiration to follow. The models' graceful poses of the early years of "Sibylle" were replaced by photos of women at work, contributing to building a new society.
Image: Jochen Moll
Work clothes turned into casual fashion
"These two overalls are conceived as simple leisurewear. The design on the left features casual details, such as quilted pockets with inlaid creases, underarm flaps and a tunnel belt." These pages of "Sibylle" are from 1977. The model on the right wears overalls designed by the GDR Fashion Institute.
Image: Roger Melis
Fresh looks
The East German economy did not pick up afterwards, but the early 1980s were nevertheless good years for "Sibylle," which offered with its aesthetic photos a welcome distraction to its readers. The works by photographer Ute Mahler notably focused more on individualized style than fashion.
Image: OSTKREUZ/Ute Mahler
Staying cool
The aesthetics of the magazine noticeably changed in the 1980s, with the models radiating provocative coolness and adopting increasingly distanced poses. International trends, such as the English model Twiggy or outfits inspired by hippie and pop culture, were once again influential.
Image: Ulrich Wüst
The end after the fall of the Berlin Wall
This 1986 edition of the magazine promised new colors and forms in fashion; in politics, those new forms would come a few years later. The Berlin Wall came down in the fall of 1989, and there were also political conflicts within the magazine's editorial department. In reunified Germany, "Sibylle" lost its exotic status and went bankrupt in 1995.
Image: Joane-Bettina Schäfer
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Sibylle magazine, founded in 1956 and named after the first editor-in-chief, Sibylle Gerstner, is celebrated in a traveling exhibition that is currently showing at the Willy Brandt Haus in Berlin until August 25, 2019. The focus is on 13 influential photographers who have shaped the magazine, including Sibylle Bergemann, Arno Fischer and Ute Mahler.
Showcasing East Germany's best photographers
When working for Sibylle in the 1960s, Arno Fischer brought the models out of the studios and onto the streets of Berlin.
But Sibylle Bergemann, who later co-founded the Ostkreuz photographers agency, put her stamp on the magazine in the 1980s with her staunch aesthetic and sometimes melancholy images, such as one of a woman with a long black dress in front of a chalk-painted wall.
Another longtime Sibylle photographer on show is Ute Mahler, whose pictures worked with individual aesthetics.
"It was about style, taste and encouraging individuality," Mahler remembers, adding that the country's best photographers worked for the magazine over the years, well-known for their signature portraits, reports, essay series and landscape photography.
DIY fashion
Instead of posing between lions and elephants in faraway countries, the models would present East German fashion at subway stations, in pubs or at work, both in the GDR and locations in Eastern European states.
The fashion was not for sale, however; Sibylle provided patterns allowing women to sew the blouses, skirts and dresses.
With 40 pages filled with fashion, travel stories, portraits of artists and other culture events with a special focus on young people, from 1956 to 1995, Sibylle hit the newsstandsevery two months. In its heyday, the magazine's circulation topped 200,000 copies, contributing significantly to the image of women in East Germany at the time, as well as reflecting social conditions in the communist country.
Censorship creeps in
By the mid-60s, the governing Socialist Unity Party of Germany blamed the country's weak economic performance on enemy ideology, spelling an end to the tolerant attitude toward a magazine seen as the mouthpiece of the country's more rebellious youth. Women were presented wearing worker-style fashion in shiny, bright colors designed to symbolize a healthy economy in the socialist country that described itself as the workers' and peasants' state.
In the early 1980s, the GDR's economic and political stagnation led to a time of social change. The magazine began showcasing ambitious artistic photography with a less conventional focus, giving readers a respite from their everyday lives.
The last issue in 1989, a time of major upheaval in East Germany that culminated in the fall of the Berlin Wall, marked a turning point. The series, entitled "Handschriften" (hand writing), showed fashion by East German designers who had just presented their collections at a fair on the other side of the Wall, in West Berlin — symbolically placing the models in front of crumbling old walls.
A West German company bought Sibylle, which secured the magazine's existence for a while without, however, building on the success it once had in East Germany. The magazine finally folded for financial reasons in early 1995.
The Trabant: Celebrating East Germany's iconic vehicle
Production of the iconic East German car, the Trabi, ended on April 30, 1991. DW takes a look back at the former GDR's most popular ride.
Image: picture-alliance/dpa/J. Büttner
Trabant 601
The Trabant was to the East what the VW Beetle was to the West — a vehicle for the masses. It was cheap to produce, with an outer body made of hard plastic. The car's moment in the spotlight came with the fall of the Berlin Wall, as citizens of the GDR spilled over the newly open East-West border in their "Trabis." There are still more than 30,000 Trabants on the streets of Germany today.
Image: Imago/Sven Simon
The Trabi: As popular as ever
The Trabi was the dream of many East Germans — and the butt of many jokes in the West. Still, it was the most popular car in the GDR, and, even today, the Trabi has fans all over Germany and beyond. This image shows a convention in 2019 where hundreds of fans gathered at the 25th International Trabi Meeting in the eastern German town of Anklam.
Image: picture-alliance/dpa/J. Büttner
Crazy competitions
At the five-day meet-up, more than 800 cars from Germany, Poland, Hungary, Bulgaria, Denmark, the Netherlands, France, Italy and Norway were registered to participate. The list of events included engine-throwing and pulling a Trabant through an obstacle course. The car's name means "satellite" or "companion" in German.
Image: picture-alliance/dpa/J. Büttner
Cheers to the Trabi!
But not everyone sought such strenuous activities. These gentlemen celebrated Father's Day in retro suits. In the GDR, receiving a Trabi was a reason to celebrate, as well. If you wanted a car in the country where supply of pretty much anything was chronically tight, you had to sign up on a list and be patient. A waiting time of over 10 years wasn't unusual.
Image: picture-alliance/dpa/J. Büttner
'Spark plug with a roof'
Trabi enthusiasts take good care of their cars, such as this Trabant 600. And original owners in the former GDR also had to treat their automobiles with kid gloves. Spare parts were extremely hard to come by and construction quality was poor, with the body of the car made of duroplast, a hard plastic made from recycled cotton waste.
Image: picture-alliance/dpa/J. Büttner
Don't forget to fill up!
When you finally received your Trabant, you couldn't drive around as carefree as these guys at the Anklam convention. You had to keep track of how much gas was still in the tank — regular Trabis didn't have a fuel gauge. The only sign that the car was running out of fuel was when the engine started sputtering. That was the driver's cue to find a gas station, and fast.
Image: picture-alliance/dpa/J. Büttner
Versatile vehicle
The meeting in Anklam wasn't just host to regular Trabis. The iconic car was turned into this firefighter version by Trabant enthusiasts themselves. No word on whether it has ever been used in an actual emergency.
Image: picture-alliance/dpa/J. Büttner
April Fools'
The convention wasn't the only place to spot an unusual Trabi. On April 1, 2018, police in the eastern-German city of Görlitz presented this Trabant 601 as part of their new fleet. Excited Trabant fans, however, were soon disappointed when it turned out the cute crime fighting machine was nothing but an April Fools' joke.
This Trabi convertible on the other hand is real. What would you call the color — Panama-green or Capri-green perhaps? Though the Trabant was built in the GDR, which restricted where its residents could travel, the names of the nuances it came in were rather exotic. In addition to the greens, you could also get the car in Bali-yellow or Persian-orange, for example.
Image: Imago Images/S. Zeitz
Luxury Trabi
The Trabant wasn't exactly known for its comfort. Passengers in the backseat had very little room. That's different in this deluxe version. For friends of the cult car, it's the best of both worlds: They can revel in nostalgia while also stretching out their legs. A Trabi dream come true!
Image: Imago Images/F. Sorge
Hollywood star
The Trabi also has fans in the United States, not least of whom is the Hollywood star Tom Hanks. The actor fulfilled a dream back in 2014, when he became the proud owner of this sky-blue Trabant P 601 de luxe. But, rather than driving it down California's streets, he said he wanted to have it exhibited in a Los Angeles automobile museum.