Amidst growing social and political divisions in the country, Prime Minister Robert Fico is using his power to amplify tensions and stir up fear.

Once a mainstream Social Democrat, Robert Fico has reinvented himself as a leftwing nationalist — repeatedly attacking the media while pursuing friendly relations with Moscow and stalling EU sanctions against Russia. With confidence in the government and public institutions steadily eroding, many young people are leaving the country — while others take to the streets to fight for democratic values and strengthening Slovakia's ties to the EU.

Located at an altitude of 2,250 meters, Chata pod Rysmi is the highest mountain lodge in Slovakia. It's run by Viktor Beránek: not just a warm-hearted host but also a legendary sherpa — and a vocal critic of populist prime minister Robert Fico. The country's longest-serving mountain hut manager has now lost his lease after almost half a century, likely due to his political positions. He's now considering his homeland. 

Down in the liberal-minded capital Bratislava, locals gather regularly to protest — against sweeping interventions in the judiciary, government pressure on the media, and attempts to align the country closer to Russia while the prime minister makes friendly visits to Moscow. Peter Bárdy, editor-in-chief at the Aktuality.sk news portal, has been following these developments and says they are driven not by ideology but rather business interests, cronyism and the pursuit — and preservation — of power.

On the other side of the political divide are people like 22-year-old Terezka Mičianiková (from the town of Trnava), who believes in a strong government that puts Slovakia first. In her eyes, the EU intervenes too heavily in domestic issues and is a far bigger source of problems than Fico. The law student and influencer wants to see a confident and more nationally-oriented Slovakia — maintaining a clear distance from Brussels.

Meanwhile, a delegation from the European Parliament traveled to Bratislava to gain a first-hand impression of the judiciary, media freedom and anti-corruption measures. Slovakia is increasingly being called the EU's new "problem child", as its government continues to question the EU's values and expectations.

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