City Portrait Speyer
April 5, 2007
Tourists roaming the streets of Speyer in the middle of the night may think they've boarded a time machine back to the Middle Ages. All it takes is one look at the Romanesque Kaiserdom, or Emperor's Cathedral, from the 11th century. The cathedral was the largest church in the Christian world at the time it was built, and its four massive towers, twin domes and long central nave are breathtaking.
The view from the eastern portal extends along a wide boulevard to the Altpörtel, which once served as the city gate. From this vantage point it seems like the time machine has catapulted our unsuspecting visitors forward to the beginning of the 18th century. At that time, the city was rebuilt after being burned to the ground during the War of the Grand Alliance (1688-1697).
Nearly all the buildings in the town center have survived relatively unscathed by the passage of time. Baroque structures like the town hall, the Neue Kaufhaus (new department store), the churches and smaller buildings from this time period provide an enchanting backdrop for the town's pedestrian zone.
From Riesling to Roman
Rush-hour traffic and the everyday hustle and bustle of life in the 21st century brings the visitor back to the present. The modern town of Speyer looms large in the form of government buildings. The majority of jobs there are in the public-service sector.
The restaurant business is another important branch of industry, especially in the historic town center. Guests can sample local wines, particularly Riesling, as Speyer is located near the famed Weinstrasse (wine street) in one of Germany's best wine regions.
Today's residents can make a good living off the 2,000-year-old town's history, which attracts thousands of visitors each year.
The museums are also popular. At the Historical Palatine Museum, visitors can relive the heyday of the Salian emperors. Celtic and Roman artifacts from the pre-Christian era bear witness to the city's origins.
Turn from these monuments of history to the Museum of Technology or the IMAX cinema, with its futuristic dome projection, and once again there's a feeling of being catapulted through time.