'Summertime' captures a long infatuation with Italy
Julia Hitz
May 15, 2023
Gelato, sunny beaches and gliding along the Riviera on a Vespa scooter: Such scenes underpin the myth of "la dolce vita," Italy's good life — and a popular Netflix series.
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Germans have been infatuated with Italy for centuries.
Back in the late 1700s, literary legend Johann Wolfgang von Goethe wrote an influential travelogue about his two years journeying through Italy that helped cement a long German romance with the southern European country.
"O, how happy I feel in Rome!" Goethe wrote in a poem inspired by his travels.
In the postwar years, well-traveled German citizens holidayed across Italy in the millions from Sicily to the Amalfi Coast, enjoying ocean, sun, regional cuisine — and, of course, gelato.
The German infatuation with Italy is, however, widely shared among the 65 million from across the planet who visit each year. And this fascination has been ably captured by the Netflix series "Summertime," which enters its third and final season this month.
Set in a resort on the Romagna Riviera on the Adriatic coast amid a sparkling summer, "Summertime" evokes a tourist's Italian fantasy, with a modern twist.
The series follows Summer (Coco Rebecca Edogamhe), a young woman who says she hates summer and is forced to support her mother with a job in a hotel in this coastal holiday idyll. But then she meets Ale (Ludovico Tersigni), a handsome young motorcycle racer from Rome. The two find love and come of age on the beach amid their own personal struggles, trials and tribulations.
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'Do you know the land where the lemons blossom?'
Also center stage is an Italian tourist paradise, one of many alluring locations that has maintained the nation's place among the top travel destinations for Germans.
But why Italy?
Goethe fulfilled a lifelong dream when he took his trip to Italy between 1786 and 1788, and his recollections from his travels likely laid the foundation for the German longing for Italy.
The poet had escaped his official duties with the Weimar court when he traveled south under the moniker of Johann Philipp Möller. He pretended to be a painter as he explored Venice, Rome, Naples and Sicily, and spiced the trip with some erotic adventures.
In the novel, "Wilhelm Meisters Lehrjahre" (Wilhelm Meister's Apprenticeship), Goethe famously referenced Italy when he asked: "Do you know the land where the lemons blossom?"
The sentiment was the basis for "Where the Lemons Blossom," a waltz by Johann Strauss II written in 1874 that had originally been titled "Bella Italia" (Beautiful Italy).
Italy inspired pioneering souvenirs
Tourists with less of a literary bent learned about Bella Italia via picture postcards from the 1870s onward.
The Städel Museum in Frankfurt am Main has an entire exhibition devoted to early photographs of Italy, which, from the mid-19th century, even before the picture postcard, were a popular souvenir.
In the age of the selfie, iconic Italian scenes portrayed 150 years ago are not so different today.
Bursting the bubble
But a deeper and darker reality often lies under this fabled view of a southern paradise.
Italy suffered terribly during the COVID pandemic, as reflected in the haunting images of an army convoy in the northern city of Bergamo moving coffins of coronavirus victims because the city's cemeteries were full.
Other Italy fans are put off by the persistent appeal of the political far right there, most recently incorporated by Giorgia Meloni, and by the unbridled machismo of the likes of former Prime Minister Silvio Berlusconi. Then there is the taint of organized crime, recurring political instability and Italy's various economic crises.
But in the wake of the pandemic, the tourists have returned for sun, sand and limoncello — and a mythical vision of romance on the Italian coast is coming alive again on the small screen in the third season of "Summertime."
This article was adapted from German.
Masks and revelry at Carnival in Venice
This year, the Venice Carnival runs from February 4 to 21. Visitors can expect a full program with spectacular costumes, shows and balls. Here are some highlights.
Image: Yasmina Barbet/MaxPPP/picture alliance/dpa
Celebrations on every canal
The Venice Carnival spectacle traditionally begins with a ride on festively decorated boats on the canals of the lagoon city. In the days that follow, the alleyways, squares and bridges are filled with street art and music. Typically, around 3 million visitors from all over the world flock to the city to join the Carnival celebrations.
Image: Matteo Chinellato/IPA/IMAGO
Masks with a long history
The "Medico della peste" is a typical Venetian mask. It dates back to the time when the plague was rife in Europe. In order to protect themselves from infection, plague doctors wore long leather outfits that covered the entire body. They also wore gloves, cavalier's hats, and a mask with glass eyes and a long beak. The mouthless mask on the right side of the picture is called "Bauta."
Image: Andrea Merola/picture alliance/dpa
Get the look
Visitors to Venice have a large choice of costumes for the Carnival celebrations. The traditional face masks that cover the entire visage are a little more expensive, while masks that cover the eyes are a cheaper alternative. They are also a fun prop, as the wearer can choose at any given moment whether to hide their face or reveal it — a useful accessory for dodging awkward conversations.
Image: David Ebener/picture-alliance
The ball awaits you!
When the "Carnevale di Venezia" began in the 12th century, roaring parties were celebrated in the palaces of the nobility. Those attending balls tried to outdo each other with ever more elaborate costumes. One of the exclusive celebrations these days is the Ballo Tiepolo in Palazzo Pisani Moretta. Instead, you can go to the opera at Teatro La Fenice.
Image: Marta Zaccaron/Lapresse/picture-alliance/dpa
Wigs are a must
To this day, most Venetians make their extraordinary and elaborate costumes themselves and base them on historical designs. Centuries later, the detailed costumes from the Baroque era never fail to catch the eye — especially the large, curly wigs that were fashionable at the time.
Image: Andrea Merola/picture alliance/dpa
Adorned with feathers
In the Rococo era, Venetian masquerade masks decorated with feathers were a sought-after status symbol. The real feathers are arranged in a fan shape, which means that the wearers' forehead is covered, making them appear taller. These days, many people can be seen in such fancy headdresses majestically strolling across St. Mark's Square.
Image: Andrea Merola/picture alliance/dpa
The lagoon walkway
Venetian masks are inspired by "Commedia dell' Arte," a form of theater that became popular in Italy in the 16th century. Colombina is the name given to the eyemask that covers the nose and forehead. In their beautiful costumes, people in these masks are ready to pose for tourists' cameras.
Image: Andrea Merola/picture alliance/dpa
Following in Casanova's footsteps
With his 1976 film about a ladies' man named Casanova, Italian movie director Federico Fellini helped make the Venetian Carnival into an internationally sought-after event. During Casanova's lifetime in the 18th century, the Venice Carnival was celebrated particularly wildly, with people enjoying the freedom of anonymity.
Image: Andrea Merola/picture alliance/dpa
Flight of the angel
Although the event won't be happening this year due to construction on the piazza, a highlight of the festivities is typically the "flight of the angel." In this daring event, a young woman secured by a steel rope floats from the Campanile, the famous bell tower of San Marco, to the middle of the square. It was inspired by a tightrope walker in the 16th century.