Rainforests in Brazil are burning. Their loss can never be restored. That's because these soils are not just infertile, they're the most nutrient-poor soils in the world — and they're unsuitable for agriculture.
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Nowhere else in the world is the number of animal and plant species as high as in the Amazon rainforest. Not even the rainforests in Asia or Africa can compare. The Amazon region has more species per square kilometer than in the whole of Europe.
One example: In just one hectare (about the size of a sports field), researchers were able to identify more than 450 tree species. In all of Germany, by comparison, there aren't even 100. The numbers are so huge that it's difficult to imagine how such a thing is possible.
Beyond that, there are tens of thousands of plant species, including countless medicinal plants, over 2.5 million insect species, 1,300 kinds of birds, 430 mammals, over 3,000 fish species, hundreds of different amphibians and reptiles. Numerous species are discovered every year, and many have yet to even be been seen by us humans.
These rainforests are a gigantic accumulation of biomass. Their plants grow on several levels, like floors in a building. There are tree giants that grow to a height of 60 to 80 meters. Then, there is the middle tree level. Below, it is very dark and humid, because the crowns of the trees are so close together that they act as a green blanket.
Sunlight hardly gets through to the ground. But it is quite bright near the treetops, where most animals live — monkeys, birds, insects, but also snakes and amphibians.
In this rainforest "universe," there are infinite niches for animals — thanks to an abundance of food, like leaves, seeds, fruits and nutrients. Everything is in the plants. As is the CO2 the trees extract from the atmosphere and store as they grow. All the while, they produce oxygen.
The amazing thing is that the soil is as poor in nutrients as the vegetation is rich. The humus layer, which is that dark, organic stuff in the soil that develops when plants or animal matter break down, is minimal nearly everywhere. The soil in the Amazon rainforest is the poorest and most infertile in the world. If one cuts down the forest, it is irretrievably lost. The humus layer is quickly washed out. Three years after clearing the forest (at the latest, nothing will grow there. What remains is washed out, worthless soil.
The rainforest feeds itself. Most nutrients are absorbed by the plants and do not get into the soil at all. It's a kind of supernatural cycle. The few plant remains that do reach the ground — leaves or branches — are decomposed in no time by fungi and bacteria thanks to the year-round warm and humid climate. The nutrients released, such as potassium, calcium and magnesium, are immediately reabsorbed by the roots.
There is virtually nothing left for the soil. Nor can a fertile layer of humus ever form. Just a few centimetres below the top layer of soil, there is nothing more than sand or clay. All nutrients in the rainforest are stored in the plants themselves, not in the soil. For agriculture, rainforest soils can therefore only be used for very short periods of time.
Jaguars roam freely from Mexico to Argentina, mostly in the Amazon basin. They used to live in some parts of the United States as well. But the big cats' habitats are shrinking due to deforestation and industrialization.
Image: Reuters/B. Kelly
The iconic feline's future is at stake
Strong and muscular, the jaguar is the largest cat in the Americas and the third largest in the world, after the lion and the tiger. Its characteristic black patches act as a form of camouflage in dense vegetation — yet many still fall victim to hunters. Today, industrial agriculture is the biggest threat to the jaguar's survival.
Image: Alianza WWF-Fundación Telmex Telcel
Struggle to survive in Brazil
According to estimates, there are still 60,000 jaguars in the wild. These nimble hunters prefer densely forested areas, but are also present in wetlands, savannas and semi-deserts. The largest jaguar population lives in the Brazilian Pantanal wetland area on the Bolivian border. However, even this species-rich biosphere reserve is under threat from industrialization and deforestation.
Image: Reuters/B. Kelly
Seeking refuge in the treetops
The Amazon bursts its banks at least once a year, flooding many areas of rainforest. The jaguars then shelter in the treetops and hunt, eat and sleep there for up to four months a year. Even though jaguars can weigh up to 100 kilograms, they are very skilled climbers and can easily reach the treetops.
Image: Reuters/B. Kelly
Soy over jaguars
Thick rainforests that served as a good habitat for jaguars used to be common in the Brazilian state of Mato Grosso in the southern part of the Amazon. But landowners have deforested the area and replaced the trees with soybean crops. The harvest is used for industrial livestock production or exported to Europe. Further deforestation threatens hundreds of thousands of square kilometers of habitat.
Image: Getty Images
Raised by the mother
At birth, jaguar cubs are blind and can't see until after nearly two weeks. Mothers do most of the rearing and feed the babies for a half year, although occasionally fathers also take care of their offspring. At the age of one to two years, they leave their parents and seek a new area of their own. A jaguar needs a range of 25 to 150 square kilometers in order to survive.
Image: Reuters/B. Kelly
Off to Mexico
The jaguar is on the list of endangered species and trading its fur is banned. Although the total number of animals has declined in recent years, the jaguar is still not at the edge of extinction. In some areas, their number has even increased. It was once seriously endangered in Mexico, for example, but recently 4,800 jaguars were counted in the country — an increase of 20 percent since 2010.
Image: Alianza WWF-Fundación Telmex Telcel
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Threatened lifeline: The Tapajos River
The Tapajos flows wild and free through the Amazon rainforest, acting as a lifeline for species. The river also sustains people — like the Munduruku indigenous group. But dam projects are threatening the river's ecology.
Image: DW/N. Pontes
Along the banks
The Munduruku people live mainly in forest regions and riverbanks, in villages spread along the Tapajos River in the Brazilian states of Para, Amazonas and Mato Grosso. With an estimated population of 12,000 to 15,000 people, the Munduruku are the most numerous indigenous group along the free-flowing Tapajos River.
Image: DW/N. Pontes
The forest
The dwellers of the Sawre Muybu Indigenous Land have sought for at least three centuries to officially demarcate their territory. The 178,000-hectare area includes rainforest that is threatened by illegal loggers and mining — and more recently, by the construction of reservoirs for hydropower.
Image: Getty Images/M. Tama
The 'chief'
Munduruku people live largely as they have for centuries. Villages are represented by women known as "cacicas." Maria Aniceia Akay Munduruku, from the upper Tapajos, has taken part in her people's movement against the construction of hydropower dams, including by demarcating indigenous land. She doesn't speak Portuguese: Her husband helps her to communicate with others outside the village.
Image: DW/N. Pontes
The essence of life
The Tapajos River is the essence of life for the indigenous Munduruku people. They depend on its water for sustenance, and to get around. The waters teem with vitality — there are 324 identified species of fish living in the waters, beside Amazonian manatees and giant otters.
Image: DW/N. Pontes
Rich biodiversity
Along the river also live hundreds of species of birds, lizards and amphibians. Tapirs and giant anteaters ply the riverbanks, while jaguars and ocelot also prowl the rainforest and savannah. The region is among the world's most important for rare land and water species.
Image: picture alliance/WILDLIFE/P. Oxford
The students
Munduruku children attend the village school, under the guidance of indigenous teachers. In this picture, girls play in the shared classroom at Sawre Muybu village during their holiday break. Animals such as monkeys, parrots, dogs and capybaras are welcome among the children.
Image: DW/N. Pontes
Living off the land
Manioc flour is the staple food in Munduruku villages — cassava planted on the family farm is crushed, shredded and then roasted in a wood-burning stove. Also sweet potatoes, yams and bananas are grown. Although Munduruku consume mainly food grown in the local fields, items such as sugar, salt and coffee have also made their way into the traditional diet. They are purchased in town once a month.
Image: DW/N. Pontes
The threat
An aerial view shows the Teles Pires dam, on the homonymous tributary to the Tapajos. The lighter green color indicates the area of forest that was submerged — critics point out that rotting vegetation from inundated forest produces considerable quantities of methane, a powerful greenhouse gas. The specter of ongoing drought also casts doubt on future usability of such hydropower stations.
Image: DW/N. Pontes
International partners
This aerial image shows construction at the Sao Manoel hydropower dam, which is supposed to begin operation by January 2018. Partially funded by Chinese companies, the cost of the project is estimated to reach €600 million euros. The plant, located on the Teles Pires River, will have the capacity to generate 700 megawatts of electricity.
Image: DW/N. Pontes
The consequences
If built, the Sao Luiz do Tapajos dam would inundate this stretch of the river — including its shallows, rapids, beaches, waterfalls, inlets and shores. Once full, it would create a reservoir the size of New York City. Planned dams could flood up to 7 percent of indigenous territory, resulting in loss of land, poorer water quality and less fish — deeply affecting Mundukuru livelihood.