"There is a long tradition of people drawing inspiration from military uniforms," says historian Maxwell. The Russian Army released a clothing line at the 2015 Fashion Week in Moscow inspired by the annexation of Crimea. "For a lot of people, military uniforms symbolize the nation. It makes sense that people are having that kind of response with the patriotic phase Russia is going through."

Dolce and Gabbana's Spring/Summer 2016 collection was an ode to Italy, with some of the clothes spelling it out, "Italia is Love." The roots of nationalism in clothes go back centuries. In the Middle Ages, certain types of fancy clothes were restricted to the upper classes by law. But as textiles got cheaper, they also became less important signifiers.

Fans show off national pride at the Soccer World Championship in 2014. It's socially acceptable to be nationalistic around sporting events, whereas most of the time our dress doesn't identify nationality: It's likely these people wore nationally-ambiguous clothing the next day, showing their status as a businesswoman, scientist or student, rather than Brazilian.

Indian fashion designer Sabyasachi Mukherjee said, "nothing fosters nationalism like national clothing," at a fashion show in Lakme 2015. He has launched an initiative called "Save the Saree" to help make the traditional Indian garment more widely popular.

Governments tried to instill national pride (and support local industries) in Nigeria by banning citizens from buying or wearing Western clothes in the 1970s. It's unknown whether that was key to the success of adire: indigo tie-dyed cloth worn in a cultural context, but which also made it onto the catwalks at the 2012 Lagos Fashion Week - bringing together tradition and modernity in one piece.

A resurgence in patriotism that hit the United Kingdom in the 90s, dubbed "Cool Britannia", was marked by more than a few fashion fails. The appearance of former Spice Girl singer, Geri Halliwell, in a Union Jack mini-dress in 1997 was one of the defining moments of the movement. Here, she launched a clothing line to bring back Cool Britannia in 2012.

More subculture than patriotic, neo-Nazis are one of the most extreme forms of distorted nationalism and they certainly have a uniform. In Germany, Nazi symbolism is banned so neo-Nazis have adopted brands, like Thor Steinar, to represent them. Some pair the increasing popularity of the brand with the rise of the far right across Europe.

With nationalism losing influence on fashion, other powers come to play: be it cultural elements with Jamaican rastafarians or ethnic identities. Like African American people shaping fashion with the statement, "Black is beautiful," pushed by model Naomi Sims proving in the 1960es that "dark black was unquestionably beautiful, unexpectedly exciting, challenging, desirable, and profitable."

In our globalized world, where borders are mostly just lines on a map, nationalism in fashion did not grow stronger, but weaker: With some love for detail you might spot national symbols on t-shirts and baseball caps, but still these markers can be deceiving: someone with cowboy boots might wear them as a fashion statement, not to show affiliation to the wild wild west.

But even if you leave your nation, your traditional fashion accompanies you. Following the Civil War in the 1990s many Somalis fled their home. "Unable to return to their homeland, Somalis use clothing to keep their memories and dreams alive," analyses historian Heather Marie Akou. "A strong sense of collective identity - projected through clothing - is almost all they have left of their nation."