After 8,000 years, Georgians are still making wine as they used to in clay pots buried underground. DW's Sarah Hucal took a trip to Georgian wine country in the South Caucasus to see what it’s all about.
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With the rugged beauty of the Caucasus Mountains, mouth-watering food and a unique architectural mélange that places it at the crossroads between East and West, it’s no surprise that Georgia’s tourism industry is booming. In 2018, eight million people traveled to the country in the South Caucasus, up 9.8% from the previous year, per the country’s tourism board. Yet, while many may come for the striking nature or perhaps Tbilisi’s bustling nightlife, there’s something else they are likely to seek out: wine.
Wine is linked to nearly every aspect of Georgian history and culture. "When a baby comes into the family we bless his life by wine. When he starts talking he has permission to taste wine. When he passes away he will be blessed with wine; all his life, wine is surrounding him," explained tour guide David Luashvili. David runs wine tours from his hometown of Telavi in the region of Kakheti, Georgia’s wine epicenter. He also has his own small vineyard and produces wine for friends and tourists who are lucky enough to taste it before he runs out for the year.
Today, many Georgians like David produce their own wine, not to be put on the market, but simply to be shared with friends, family and even strangers. The annual harvest, which takes place in the fall, is a major family affair, as well as a popular time of year for wine tourism.
For those interested in learning about Georgian winemaking first-hand, a trip through the lush Kakheti region — also known as the "cradle of wine," ideally with a guide who can arrange tastings and help translate — is a must. Trips can be made to and from Tbilisi, a two-hour drive, but are best spent at a leisurely pace with a stopover for the night in the towns of Telavi or Signagi, which allows for plenty of time to visit several vineyards. In this picturesque region at the foot of the Caucasus mountain range, weather conditions are ideal for growing the hundreds of varieties of grapes Georgians covet — there's quite a lot to taste!
Kartlos Chabashvili, founder of Inter Georgia travel agency, which often does trips to Kakheti, has seen an increase in the number of European tourists interested in wine tours. "Europeans also have good wine and whoever knows the value of wine comes to try and taste Georgian traditional wine which is a very unique and old tradition," he said.
A member of the family
Some even say that wine was invented in Georgia. And indeed, there is evidence suggesting this may be true. In 2017, scientists exploring a Neolithic village 32 kilometers (20 miles) south of Tbilisi found an 8,000-year-old grape seed in a clay pot, making it the world’s oldest evidence of winemaking.
Fast forward to the 21st century and Georgians still prefer their unique method of making wine in egg-shaped clay vessels called "qvevri" which are buried underground to maintain a steady temperature.
The qvevri, which come in different sizes but are most commonly around 800 liters (211 gallons), are filled with the freshly-squeezed juice and typically pressed by foot. The seeds, stems and skin and juice are all poured into the vessel together, which is then buried for six months. Inside, the wine ferments and filtrates naturally, with stems, seeds and skin slowly falling to the bottom of the vessel due to its shape.
It’s a world apart from European winemaking methods, which usually involve wooden barrels and more complex filtration methods (although some of the larger Georgian vineyards also apply European techniques). The process is so unique that in 2013, the qvevri wine-making tradition was placed on the UNESCO intangible cultural heritage list for its significance and importance in the country’s history and culture.
Vineyards are often passed down from generation to generation, and children learn the ways of the vine from a young age. "Although he had three children, my grandfather always said he actually had a fourth: his vineyard, which he spent all his life taking care of," explained Chabashvili.
"We never say wine is something material, to us, it’s like a life," he explained. "We don’t say qvevri is 'buried' underground, we say it is 'planted,' because it’s alive," he added.
Popular abroad
The most popular variety is Saperavi, a red grape that creates an almost too-drinkable fruity juice. There are, of course, also white varietals such as Mtsvane and Tsolikauri, which are actually amber in color, since the skin and seeds are not separated from the squeezed juice in the qvevri, leading to the richer hue.
At Shalauri vineyards, 60-year-old winemaker Zakhro Kohutsishivili has been practicing his craft for 35 years. Despite only producing around 20,000 bottles a year, his small vineyards have shipped wine to Germany, Japan and even the US. "I don’t know how they find me because I don’t do any advertising," he told DW. Small vineyards such as his, which still use all-natural methods, tend to be the most popular with tourists looking for the traditional Georgian wine experience.
Mosmieri, a larger vineyard that produces over 100,000 bottles per year and uses both European and Georgian methods, relies on exporting wine abroad to Germany, Belgium and the Netherlands. "Georgians don’t like to pay for wine," explains manager Nino Tsignadze. "Now, our main goal is China because a few years ago they weren’t drinking wine at all, but in 2017 they were in second place." Chinese sommeliers often visit the vineyard, she added.
Towering over Tbilisi is the 20-meter-tall (65 ft) "Kartlis Deda" (Mother of Georgia) statue. In one hand, she holds a cup of wine — an offering to friends. Hospitality is a sacred concept in Georgia; in the past in the Kakheti region, strangers in search of water would be greeted with a jug of white wine to quench their thirst. But in her other hand, she holds a sword — a warning to enemies. There have been many in the small country’s history. "All the big invaders tried to destroy vineyards; the Russian empire tried to forbid to make Georgian wine and spirits," said Chabashvili. "But they couldn’t change anything because secretly in the villages people were doing it anyway. Georgia without winemaking is just unimaginable."
What to see in Georgia
Georgia is the host country of ITB Berlin 2023, the world's largest trade show for tourism, which takes place from March 7 to 9. The country lies on the border between Europe and Asia and has a lot to offer for visitors.
Image: Nataliya Nazarova/Zoonar/picture alliance
Georgia, melting pot of cultures
Multicultural, multiethnic, multireligious: this is Georgia. The breathtakingly beautiful country between the Caucasus Mountains and the Black Sea is one of the oldest settlement areas in the world. Today, about 3.7 million people live in this small country. Geographically, it sits at the border of Europe and Asia, but its inhabitants call it the "balcony of Europe."
Image: picture-alliance/A. Widak
Tbilisi, a cultural capital
The metropolis of Tbilisi is Georgia's cultural center — and it has been since the 5th century. The city has known Roman, Arab, Turkish, Persian and other conquerors, and they all left their traces. Russia invaded Georgia in 1799 and remained there until the end of the Soviet era. Tbilisi celebrates the present with new constructions such as the Peace Bridge and the Concert Hall, seen at right.
Image: picture-alliance/A. Therin-Weise
Old town and fortress
Since the 3rd century, the Narikala Fortress has kept watch over the old town, where homes feature typical wooden balconies. The panoramic path up to the fortress leads through a labyrinth of alleys. The massive castle has seen conquerors come and go, and was destroyed and rebuilt again and again. A lightning strike in the gunpowder warehouse in 1827 eventually turned it into a ruin.
Image: picture-alliance/dpa/Z. Kurtsikidze
Where the royals resided
The Metekhi Virgin Mary Church can be seen on the steep bank of the Kura, which flows through Tbilisi. From the 12th century, the residence of the Georgian kings was located on this site, as indicated by the equestrian monument next to the church. It depicts King Vakhtang Gorgasali, the founder of Tbilisi. In 1937, the residence was demolished under Soviet rule, but the church survived.
Image: picture-alliance/dpa/Tass
700 years of bathing culture
The Abanotubani district, with its hot thermal springs, is considered the oldest part of Tbilisi. The springs have been used for 700 years but the Persian-style bathhouses were built later, in the 17th century. The bathing rooms are located under the domed brick vaults. A number of them are still in use today and are a popular meeting place to meet and chat.
Image: picture-alliance/dpa/J. Woitas
7,000 years of wine cultivation
Grape varieties from Georgia, with names like Chinuri, Rkatsiteli or Ojaleshi, enjoy an excellent reputation. The largest wine-growing areas are in the east, in Kakheti. Archaeological finds have shown that wine was cultivated in Georgia over 7,000 years ago. And even to this day, wine is cultivated in amphorae. UNESCO put this method on its Intangible Cultural Heritage list in 2013.
Image: picture-alliance/dpa/L. Avlabreli
70 years of Soviet rule
When you travel through the country, you will encounter relics from Soviet era such as houses, factories, monuments or, as here, this viewing platform on a former military road near Mount Kazbegi. All of them are stone testimonies of Georgia's 70 years as part of the Soviet Union. In April, 1991, the people voted for independence in a referendum.
Image: picture-alliance/M. Runkel
Hiking in the Caucasus
The most diverse landscapes and climate zones are concentrated in the most compact area; from the mountain villages of the Caucasus to the beaches of the Black Sea, almost half of Georgia is covered with forest. Two-thirds of the country is mountainous, with several 5,000-meter (16,404 foot) peaks. Numerous nature reserves and national parks make Georgia a worthwhile destination for hikers.
Image: picture-alliance/D. Bopp
A remote UNESCO World Heritage Site
2,200 meters (7,218 ft) above sea level, in the Great Caucasus, lies Ushguli, a community of four villages with roots dating back to the 16th century B.C. Ushguli is considered to be the highest permanently inhabited place in Europe. Since 1996, the villages with their characteristic fortified towers have been UNESCO World Heritage Sites.
Image: picture-alliance/A. Therin-Weise
Vardzia — city in the rock
Up to 50,000 people lived in the cave town of Vardzia in the south of Georgia. Built in the 12th century as a fortress to defend against Turks and Persians, it was carved by hand with simple tools into a 500-meter-high (1,640 foot) rock face, stacked seven stories. The town included bakeries, stables, a treasury and a church.
Image: picture-alliance/imageBroker
Old capital of Kutaisi
Around 160 kilometers (99 miles) from the Black Sea coast lies the old capital of Georgia, Kutaisi. It was the residence of the Georgian kings from the 10th century until 1122, and many are buried here. Churches, monasteries, palace ruins and the well-preserved medieval town make this city worth a visit. Today, it's the economic and cultural center of West Georgia.
Image: picture-alliance/Arco Images/A. Scholz
Coastal town of Batumi
The Black Sea coast has a mild Mediterranean climate. The port city of Batumi, the third largest city in Georgia, beckons you to take a stroll along the beach, with a promenade flanked with artworks. In this city of contrasts, you'll find derelict residential buildings, huge malls and luxury residential buildings. Real estate mogul and former US President Donald Trump invested here.
Image: picture-alliance/R. Hackenberg
Hospitality and traditions
More than 20 different ethnic groups live in Georgia, including Azerbaijanis, Armenians, Arameans, Jews and Greeks. They brought their traditions and customs with them. And the Georgians? They love their own traditions and don't miss an opportunity to wear their traditional costumes while celebrating passionately with traditional music and dances. Folk festivals are always a spectacle.